Pushrod tube depth uneven

[gog]

I've just received a pair of new to me barrels with stainless PRTs already installed. Though I think the PO isn't new to this, I'm concerned that they don't seem to be installed to an even depth:

Do these look the correct depth? How difficult is it to sort this out if it's not right?
Appreciate any help

 

[Posh Pete]

The tube and rubber should compress to the correct depth when you torque the barrel / head down?

It's either that or you need to adminster a few taps with a rubber hammer to one or the other. In or out.

 

[Rob Farmer]

Very easy with a pushrod insertion tool.

This is really common when people install stainless pushrod tubes

 

[cookie]

i've got several pairs of barrels kicking around in the workshop, and though they might be more even than that, they are pretty much all different depths. i found this out when measuring them to fit stainless tubes, which were an incredibly tight fit.

i actually now set them to an average of what i have measured. this is handily gauged by placing a straightedge across base gasket face and it just touching the pushrod rubber flange.

 

[gog]

Cheers guys. The hammer technique will be tried once I figure out what depth theyre supposed to be. as far as i can tell the jury is out. Ill check what depth my existing ones are and replicate.

Rob, ill bung that tool in with my next motorworks order.

They seem to be in there pretty damn tight. Any tips for removal without causing damage either to the cylinder or the PRT?

 

[gog]

cookie, which part of the rubber bung is the flange? (fnar fnar)

 

[cookie]

cookie, which part of the rubber bung is the flange? (fnar fnar)

i mean the ridge on the tube that the rubber butts against.

edit: like this

 

[gog]

got it, cheers

 

[gog]

I've seen it where they are driven 5mm further in, otherwise rubber splits. also advocated by snowbum. this is the other end - any further in and they'll protrude out the other end:

 

[Rob Farmer]

Cheers guys. The hammer technique will be tried once I figure out what depth theyre supposed to be. as far as i can tell the jury is out. Ill check what depth my existing ones are and replicate.

Rob, ill bung that tool in with my next motorworks order.

They seem to be in there pretty damn tight. Any tips for removal without causing damage either to the cylinder or the PRT?

You really need the pushrod tube tool. it stops the edges from burring over.

 

[gog]

ordered. needed a few other bits anyway. cheers rob.

 

[cookie]

mine were so tight i couldn't even start them straight.

in the end, i put the tool on the end of the push rod tube that goes into the barrel so it acted as a guide, then started it off with relatively gentle taps on the tube with a soft face mallet. when it was in a few mm and straight, i dropped the tool out through the tunnel and used it in the normal way with a much bigger hammer.

these were motorworks s/s tubes, which i hear now used to be a bit oversize. they seem to have fixed it now as the last set i saw went in relatively easily

 

[solidstate100]

I've seen it where they are driven 5mm further in, otherwise rubber splits.QUOTE]

Exactly what has happened to mine - seibenrock 1000cc kit fitted a couple of months ago, bit of a struggle to get the barrels on the crank face due to slightly uneven PRT's, one of the nearside rubbers is now splitting and curling itself out of the crankcase. Another rather tedious stripdown (not looking forward to getting those internal circlips out of the Siebenrock pistons!!) beckons.

Lesson - check em properly before fitting!

 

[gog]

will report back when the mandrel arrives. im not touching it until then