Pushrod Tubes

[(RIP) maverick]

Hi chaps,

Just want to check some info. If you replace the pushrod tubes on a 1979 R100RT do you need to pull the barrels off completely to do or can you just move it back to a point and replace

Just trying to work out whether it is possible to do without moving the barrels completely over the piston and rings.

Ohh and say a "friend" wants to ride said R100RT about 300 miles home with a leaking pushrod tube - note not the seal - what temporary cure is there to prevent a national oil spill to get home Some sort of metal wrap with sealant or something perhaps

More to follow

 

[Damien]

I have recently replaced mine on an R80g/s, with stainless steel items. They needed a fair bit of persuasion to remove and replace them using the special tool on a workbench. I would Imagine it would be very difficult to do them with the cylinder in situ.

Why not pull the gudgeon pin and do them on a bench with the piston still in the cylinder?

 

[(RIP) maverick]

I was more thinking of it had to be done emergency style next to the road or something along those lines to be honest. If I am at home will do it the proper way and take the barrels off completely. I suppose there is always the AA

 

[England-Kev]

if it is a rubber leaking, then you just need to back off the cylinder a little, but if one of the tubes has a hole then you need to remove the cylinder and piston. but if one of the tubes just has a small hole then a bit of liquid metal and some alloy foil, held in place with a hose clip will get you home.

 

[Thunder]

Be next to impossible to do on the bike, best thing is to remove them all together IMPO.

 

[(RIP) maverick]

but if one of the tubes just has a small hole then a bit of liquid metal and some alloy foil, held in place with a hose clip will get you home.

Thanks Kev,

This seems to be the case so will take some liquid metal, heavy duty foil and clips with me.

Once back home can strip and replace properly, alot of airhead work lying ahead the next couple of weeks

 

[bubbles]

Take a look at this http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228918 3rd pic down of the 11th post, now replaced with stainless tubes.

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Take a look at this http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228918 3rd pic down of the 11th post, now replaced with stainless tubes.

Excellent that will get it home many thanks

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Another quick question about pushrod tubes please

So I put a bit of heat at the base of the heads yesterday and got the old pushrod tubes out no problem with a vice grip and some light tapping. When you re-fit the new ones besides cooling the tubes down and heating the heads up for easier fitment do you need some sort of retaining fluid around the tubes like locktite or should they be fine as a dry fit?

 

[Kenny]

Dry fit...proper tool to wack them in ( should measure the old ones first

 

[bubbles]

I did my push rod tubes at the Wee-Kend, much easier than I expected, no heat or cooling just measured the length of the originals, punched em out with the tool from Motoworks (about £8 I think) knock the new ones in with the same tool, if you go too far (like I did,) knock em back a bit, they are really not that tight, no sealant needed. The rubber seals were fitted dry, just make sure it all seats down nicely, 500 miles latter all is good, no oil leaks and I'm a push rod tube expert , thanks Proff

 

[DrFarkoff]

Wee Tip undo a circlip, push the gudgeon pin out and leave the piston in the barrel!

Cable tie the conrod up a little not dead tight but just so it doesn't chip the lower edge of the casing

AND IF you HAVE left the Piston on the conrod

You will need to protect the skirt from hitting the rod or you need a new piston I use a bit of foam pipe insulation

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Thanks for all the tips and advice chaps, much appreciated