QR fuel connectors

[ChrisH Kerry]

Where's the best source for quick release fuel connectors? Had a look on Motorworks/bins but only found white plastic ones for GSA tank. Is there a Fleabay option?
Thanks
Chris

ps when fitting them how do you go about releasing pressure in fuel line to cut it - normally when removing tank you'd clamp pipe ... correct??

 

[Green Boy]

Hi,

Try this from ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150772526266?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Hope this helps.

PS: nothing to do with me in any way

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Motorworks do stock them, you just need too know where to find them

The small white ones are for the cross over pipe which runs between the to lobs of the tank. Part no TAA66736 & FUA66735

The main ones are listed under Tank Parts, Miscellaneous fuel tank fittings
part no FUA59119 & FUA 59120.

A word of caution. Try to avoid the plastic male QR connectors, as I had both of mine goo within a week of one another with near disastrous consequences. The plastic cracks across the weeks point and when it shears off it leaves the stub still inside the female portion bpreventing the check valve from closing, with all th feel spurting out at high pressure.

I replaced both my Yale plastic ones with the metal ones supplied by Motorworks.

 

[denny]

I replaced my plastic oem's with shiny ones from here...

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/fuliqudise.html

 

[Steptoe]

[URL="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002RAWOXM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?tag=5336121781-21"]HERE[/URL].

Link thanks to gecko

 

[Flanners]

Motorworks do stock them, you just need too know where to find them

The small white ones are for the cross over pipe which runs between the to lobs of the tank. Part no TAA66736 & FUA66735

The main ones are listed under Tank Parts, Miscellaneous fuel tank fittings
part no FUA59119 & FUA 59120.

A word of caution. Try to avoid the plastic male QR connectors, as I had both of mine goo within a week of one another with near disastrous consequences. The plastic cracks across the weeks point and when it shears off it leaves the stub still inside the female portion bpreventing the check valve from closing, with all th feel spurting out at high pressure.

I replaced both my Yale plastic ones with the metal ones supplied by Motorworks.

Wise words has happened to me, pissed petrol everywhere, broke when self-diagnosing my Halls Sensor failure and in the AA van

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Wise words has happened to me, pissed petrol everywhere, broke when self-diagnosing my Halls Sensor failure and in the AA van

Scary stuff, fuel pissing out under pressure over a hot engine casting.

Not wanting to steal this thread. There has been lots of stuff on the blogs about the failure of the male plastic QR connectors. There are reports that the manufacturers think it's the ethernol in the fuel which is reacting to the plastic. Now the manufacturers might have upgraded the plastic but without batch control how would you know what you were buying old or new. You can't beat the metal ones for piece of mind. The failure point seams to be where the plastic is at it's thinnest which is why it's the male that usually fails.

Anyway I have metal male and the original plastic Female QR's on my bike.

 

[Gecko]

Careful those metal ones don't cause a spark.... metal on metal ....that could be disasterous

I've been using palstic ones for years - no problem. As suggested by Steptoe - you need to maintain them with a little bit of grease. I broke mine by being ham fisted with it but otherwise it has given years of trouble free service.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

ps when fitting them how do you go about releasing pressure in fuel line to cut it - normally when removing tank you'd clamp pipe ... correct??

I'm assuming from your question that you do not have any fitted at the moment, just straight hoses. You can try clamping, but there isn't much room to work, if you do that. Personally I would drain the tank and remove it, this will dissipate any pressure in the fuel lines.

On my bike Standard GS (No reason why the Adventure should be different) looking at the two plastic pipes above the throttle body, the top fuel hose is approx 10cm long to the male QR connector. The bottom fuel hose is approx 15cm long to the female QR connector. This should position your QR in roughly the right position. If you remove the length of hose corresponding to the distance of the QR when assembled from the overall length of the hose then you should be OK.

Hope this answers you question.

 

[ChrisH Kerry]

Hope this answers you question.

Thanks

and thanks for the links/info on QR connectors - looks like an Amazon purchase

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Interloper from the more modern 1200 section here. Tom Parkers do chrome plated brass ones. They are the first choice for Triumph owners. They are really helpfully as well.

 

[Steptoe]

. Personally I would drain the tank and remove it, this will dissipate any pressure in the fuel lines.

.

There is no pressure in the fuel lines.
Clamp off the fuel outlet hose (bottom one) so the fuel doesn't run out, cut the hose where you want to fit the Q/D, then fit it, remove clamp (mole grips ).

Same on the top fuel return hose, except you don't have to clamp it off. Or you could always stick an M6 bolt into the hose.

 

[ChrisH Kerry]

Or you could always stick an M6 bolt into the hose.

So should they be 8mm ones as in Link or ones for 6mm ID pipe??

 

[Steptoe]

So should they be 8mm ones as in Link or ones for 6mm ID pipe??

8mm, You could be right, i know i have two bolts sitting on the work bench specifically for blocking the fuel hose that i know fit. I could be thinking of the 1150 adv crossover pipe that takes a 6mm bolt.

 

[ChrisH Kerry]

A quick trip to the garage confirmed 8mm pipe phew I was worried for a minute there - how would I get 8mm spigots into 6mm ID pipe

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Not clear if the QR's come with pipe clips or not, you will need 4 of course. The hose has an external diameter of 13.8mm but expands when you insert the QR. coupling. I'm pretty sure I used 13mm clips which were a tight fit to start with, but they clamped down OK.

Course if you use a small jubilee clips you would have a greater range of movement. The type of clip you choose is down to personal preference, they all do the same job.

 

[Fanum]

£6.46

The type of clip you choose is down to personal preference, they all do the same job.

Hmmm, to a degree yes (and I do have some jubilee clips on some fuel lines I've fitted)

Fuel hose clips give a more even tightening though (they pull together from both directions rather than pulling one end into the other IYSWIM).....Jubilees can get a bit out of shape at the small circumference we're talking about.

Better to use the proper fuel clips (NOT the one use crimp ones) than a worm drive jubilee type.

 

[ChrisH Kerry]

£6.46

Crap - I just ordered the other ones .... could have saved myself 3p.

 

[Gecko]

the Amazon ones I bought have no clips, hose, fuel lines or bike attached