R100GSPD Stalling

[Essexadventure]

Nice ride out on the GSPD today but stalled 4 times coming to a stand! Speeded the tickover up to around 1100 revs on getting home but is there anything else I should be looking at??


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[Rob Farmer]

Have you any sort of vacuum gauge?

Note how many turns out your mixture screws are and then take them out, make sure you don't loose the springs. The left one will probably have a load of oily goo that drops out. Give it all a wipe and put the mixture screws back as they were.

Set the tick over to around 1200/1300 rpm with the engine at a normal temperature with the gauges showing balanced. Turn the mixture screws so that the revs peak and then turn the tick over down to your normal idle speed.

Let us know what happens?

 

[Belper phil]

stalled 4 times coming to a stand! is there anything else I should be looking at??


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Carbs gunged up with crud in the jet - worth a look

 

[Belper phil]

Listen to Rob

 

[Paul Rochdale]

I took my R100GS-PD out for a fide to the coast today - tick over when cold 1500rpm, when hot 1,900-2,000rpm , far too fast and causes crunchy gear changes. I've also detected some unwanted play in the rear wheel bearings.

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[Rob Farmer]

You haven't got any rear wheel bearings!

 

[ChasF]

Nice ride out on the GSPD today but stalled 4 times coming to a stand! Speeded the tickover up to around 1100 revs on getting home but is there anything else I should be looking at??


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Air leak on the manifolds or one of the vacuum tube connections - just a thought.

 

[Wrigsby1]

I took my R100GS-PD out for a fide to the coast today - tick over when cold 1500rpm, when hot 1,900-2,000rpm , far too fast and causes crunchy gear changes. I've also detected some unwanted play in the rear wheel bearings.

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Do what Rob F mentioned last year with a raised tickover and when hot after a good ride set the idle screws to their highest revs before setting up the rest of the carb again...

 

[bumpmuncher]

Sticky choke cables, just holding choke open a little ?

 

[Essexadventure]

Did as Rob suggested and all seems good now! Not too much crud but out a long way so set at 3/4 turns out and much smoother tickover and no stalling now - cheers guys!

Mike

 

[Paul Rochdale]

You haven't got any rear wheel bearings!

Haynes disagrees with you.

(Later) Looking at the micro-fiche, I see what you mean. It's the bearing in the bevel gear and spacer rings. Haynes says "leave to a dealer". Is this a DIY job as it appears that it requires pre-load adjustment, shims and possibly special tools. Can the slight play be removed by taking some shims out?

 

[Rob Farmer]

I'd have thought it more likely that it was the pivot pin bearings for the bevel box in the swinging arm. Have you tried grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel and rocking it from side to side?

Steptoe's a dab hand at swapping the crown gear bearings if it is that, he's done them at the side of the road. It's exactly the same bearing as fitted to the 1100/1150 bikes so massively under stressed on the airheads. You cannot shim out any play as any play has to be in the bearing race.

 

[Paul Rochdale]

Yes Rob, at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and there's definite play and Haynes states there should be none. I've a big ride coming up in June/July and need to know if it needs fixing before it fails.

 

[Rob Farmer]

Sounds more like the pivot bearings Paul, Nip them up and see if the play goes.

 

[Beemerboff]

My mono had a bit play when I bought it, 130,000 km back, and it didnt change much until recently.

But it is the type with a needle roller on the drive side, and up to 2 thou clearance at the large bearing is permissible, which translates into about 20 thou at the rim.
Not too hard to work on - there is a removable cap on the drive side which lets you measure things and get the bearing in the right place, and I made up a spacer the same size as the bearing so I could do a trail build and order the spacers and shims all on the one order.

The Para's would be much more difficult, if you intend to do the job properly and set tooth wipe and backlash as well as just replacing the large bearing.

Problem with the Para is that there is a taper roller one side, and the large C3 deep groove ball the other, with 2 thou preload, and if you get a bit play it could be either, or both, bearings, and both are a job for someone with expensive equipment.

Replacing just the large bearing, and seal, without reshimming is a job any bodger could do at the side of the road, but doing it correctly requires the bearing housing to be heated to 80C to remove the bearing , and the crown wheel really needs to go in the freezer to get the bearing over it.
So only those who carry the fridge and cooker with them shouuld try at the side of the road - maybe that is what they carry in the huge tin boxes you see on the back of most GS''s!

 

[snelly]

I think the idea behind side of the road repairs are to get you mobile,and get you home.If you are competent enough to make big repairs in the field. It would be a doddle to do in your garage if it failed again.

 

[Beemerboff]

Problem is that if you knock the large bearing out of a cold cover it will never grip the bearing properly again, so you are faced with either replacing the cover or bodging it with Locktite. Like the later wheel bearings.

DAHIK-----.

Actually, every post / blog I have read on rebuilding these things shows the two cover removal screws pulling the cover off the large bearing, and mine did the same. Heat gun warm, but not 80C
But the crown wheel lifts straight out after the cover is off, so if any of these covers had much grip in the bearing the crown wheel would simply have been lifted with the cover. Then it is easier to get the cover up to temp without the whole final drive conducting the heat away.

So Loctite is probably a good idea on reasembly regardless, unless you think you will be around long enough to wear the bearing out and have to remove it again.

 

[Paul Rochdale]

Sounds more like the pivot bearings Paul, Nip them up and see if the play goes.

Thanks for the advice Rob, and I presume you mean't the pivot pins in the final drive? As I'd never disturbed these ever, I had a look at the pivot pins in the swinging arm bearings. One side was nice and tight, the offside lock nut was loose, which is odd as I had re-assembled this properly, so I nipped up that pivot pin, cleaned the threads and refitted the lock nut with a dap of Locktite. No more play.

 

[Rob Farmer]

Result!

Always when it's a simple, cheap, solution.

 

[Paul Rochdale]

I got the tickover down from a daft 2000rpm to a tardy 1300rpm but stalled in traffic three times today. She's still not right at low revs. Tiny, tiny oil leak from the rearmost gaiter; a failing seal I guess. Easy to fix?