R100GSPD transmission advice

nick.ct

Well-known member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Sep 28, 2005
Messages
3,298
Reaction score
140
Location
Ashbourne, Derbyshire
OK boys and girls, its like this...........

I think that the loss of drive and the inability to bump start my bike when I was away is due to the nut holding the drive shaft flange onto the tapered gearbox output shaft having come loose.

So, does anyone know if there's a shortcut way to tighten up this nut (I know it needs to be very tight) ie. a way to do this, removing as few other bits and pieces as possible.

Thanks muchly in advance

Nick
 
Swinging arm and driveshaft out and then tighten it up in situ with either the special tool or a bar with holes drilled to match the holes in the output flange and a big torque wrench.
 
Swinging arm and driveshaft out and then tighten it up in situ with either the special tool or a bar with holes drilled to match the holes in the output flange and a big torque wrench.

I have the above "Special bar" that Rob mentions, if anyone wants to borrow it.
Post on here and I will mail it to you.
 
If yer in no hurry I have one also
but I am off on a 2 week jolly on me PD at 0630 tomorra back on the 14th
I will deliver it or yer can fetch it when I get back
Sorry Ive only just read it
Good luck - undooowin um is a barst - tightning is a doggle :thumb2
 
If yer in no hurry I have one also
but I am off on a 2 week jolly on me PD at 0630 tomorra back on the 14th
I will deliver it or yer can fetch it when I get back
Sorry Ive only just read it
Good luck - undooowin um is a barst - tightning is a doggle :thumb2

Thanks for that, have a great trip. Got my PD back today after the transmission let go in Swizzerland after the magnets fell off the starter motor in France :blast
 
I have the above "Special bar" that Rob mentions, if anyone wants to borrow it.
Post on here and I will mail it to you.

if it's the genuine bmw tool you have to remove the gearbox, as it doesn't fit with the box in situ due to the frame.
 
Well.............. had a fine days tinkering

Replaced the knacked Valeo starter with a Bosch one that I happened to have lying around. As many will know they are considerably heavier than the Valeos but their magnets dont fall off. (3 point fixing too, unlike the Valeo, so the front cover had came off) It was a bit of a squeeze getting it back in but the bike started first press of the button, well chuffed.

Next problem to address was the 'disconnect' between the engine and back wheel. I was pretty sure from the symptoms that the gearbox output taper had let go. Following Rob's advice, having removed the 4 drive shaft flange bolts, I removed the rear shock, supported the back wheel and removed the swing arm bearings. This allowed access to the back of the gearbox. Sure enough, the nut holding the flange onto the taper was finger tight only. The taper looked in good condition, so using the flange bolts as leverage point and a steel bar and a cut down 24mm socket (not much room between the driveshaft and the back of the gearbox) I've done it up pretty tight.

The rear shock and swingarm bearing were inspected and seem OK, so they're back in place, just waiting for Motorworks to deliver 4 more driveshaft flange bolts (they're stretch bolts) and hopefully the jobs a goodun.

Oh, it seems to be beer o'clock..............

:beerjug::beerjug: :beer::beer:

PS, if it slips again, I expect I'll have to replace shafts and flanges etc. We'll see. Again, thanks for the advice everyone. It appears that the most likely cause of the gearbox output shaft taper letting go was the repeated bumpstarting which puts a high torque loading onto the taper.
 


Back
Top Bottom