hi all,on the way to work tuesday morning bike cut out/stalled 3 times,restarted easily enough then on way home today cut out again but bike did,nt stall this time.since i,ve owned the bike 2 months all i,ve done is a full oil change,fuel filter change,adv tank swap,and cut down and gutted the remus end can,theres no history with the bike and its showing 25500 on clocks.any ideas?and maybe things that i should be looking at doing that may have been ignored by previous owner.
r1100gs cutting out
- Thread starter bart2181
- Start date
hi all,on the way to work tuesday morning bike cut out/stalled 3 times,restarted easily enough then on way home today cut out again but bike did,nt stall this time.since i,ve owned the bike 2 months all i,ve done is a full oil change,fuel filter change,adv tank swap,and cut down and gutted the remus end can,theres no history with the bike and its showing 25500 on clocks.any ideas?and maybe things that i should be looking at doing that may have been ignored by previous owner.
Stewart H
Registered user
Sidestand switch? I shorted mine out at the connector on the left side of the bike (under the side panel if you have em) two pin connector, I stripped all the insulation off a short bit of speaker wire, poked the ends down the holes in the female bit and pushed the connector back together, temporary fix thats still working.
Stewart
Stewart
ktmmark
Registered user
Check wires where they goin to the ignition switch give them a riddle with the engine running
cheers lads,a couple of things for me to try.im fairly sure its something stupid maybe loose connection or something i,m gonna risk taking the bike again tommorow but i,ll take a spare pair of underpants with me should incase i conk out in the fast lane of the m6 like i did tuesday
anyone had any dealings with this hall sensor maybe this could be my problem?
anyone had any dealings with this hall sensor maybe this could be my problem?
cheers dave thanx for info mate but whats the fecks a ING switch
and dave if you pass me on your address i,ve a spell checker thats no longer needed
i can only presume you,d been on the old whacky backy when you posted that reply.regards craig
and dave if you pass me on your address i,ve a spell checker thats no longer needed i can only presume you,d been on the old whacky backy when you posted that reply.regards craig
motobiker
Registered user
I believe the symptoms of a duff hall sensor are the engine will cut out when the revs are raised above tickover.
There may be others but I don't think an engine cutting out and then restarting (and running normally) will be one of them.
There may be others but I don't think an engine cutting out and then restarting (and running normally) will be one of them.
cheers matey i,m off to the garage in a bit,just me,the dog,6 cans of stella and the very best of thin lizzy so i,ll check that out cheers craig
Mac
Registered user
Good luck cabrone'.....
hiya lads,good weekend?can,t be much worse than mine but thats another story,anyway checked cables whilst bike was running(ign.etc)for anything loose,all seems ok so i thought i,d link sidestand switch out to eliminate that,no good bike stalled on me this morning i was,nt even 10 yards from house,bike started again but stalled again but i noticed the rev counter jumping all over the place and the fuel pump continously priming.now it seems the bike will start when cooled down.is this the dreaded hall sensor if so is it a big job? anyone have a spare they no longer need,or know anyone who can repair for me locally brumkeep smiling and happy biking craig
keep smiling and happy biking craig
ktmmark
Registered user
Sounds very much like the hall sensor, you may get s/h but the wires go hard due to heat over time i paid about £150 new easy job to fit
Steve the Kiwi
Registered user
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2008
- Messages
- 883
- Reaction score
- 0
his this the dreaded hall sensor if so is it a big job? anyone have a spare they no longer need,or know anyone who can repair for me locally brum
I had the exact saem problem two weeks ago. I got a reconditioned one here in Holland for 75 eur incl new wiring and i can assure you that replacing the Hall Effect Sensor was by far the biggest thing I've done without Adult supervision...and it was a piece of cake. I searched on here and ADV rider and read through them to get the idea.. If you can do a nut up without striping it I'd say you'll do fine. The most time consuming things for me was getting the plug of the old HES through and out from under the Alternator. The only thing i was little apprehensive about was getting the tension correct on the Alternator belt afterwards. It turned out to be easy.
Go for it
If you have any probs getting a reconditioned HES in the UK let me know and i'll put you in touch with the guy i got mine from.. much cheaper than a new one!cheers buddy i,ll bear that in mind,but before i go about ordering i,m gonna take tank off tommorow just to make sure the connectors are tight.you never know your luck mine may be loose.cheers craig
Erik RS
Guest
+1
(and get in touch with that Dutchman through the Kiwi if you need a refurbished one. He has done over a hundred by now to full satisfaction and for a fair price)
rcymbala
Registered user
Hello, I just joined today. My 1999 R1100GS is cutting-out, it just cuts-out while I'm riding it.
I want to share the fix when I find it for this problem...
I have been searching old posts and see this prob in several posts -- this one says the lights stay on: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-238061.html
When mine cuts out, ALL the lights go OFF instantaneously and the engine stops firing. It has happened on the freeway at 55mph and more recently it has happened just after starting a cold engine and leaving the driveway. I have coasted on the freeway, turned key OFF, turned it back ON, hit the starter and it started up allowing me to go from coasting to full power. It has never had a problem re-starting. I just turn OFF then ON, the lights come back on, and it starts up like everything was just fine.
There's no other symptom. It runs fine all the time, even just before the cut-out. After the cut-out, it runs fine. It's been happening more and more frequently. I'll let you know. ***
Check the short piece of wiring that comes off the back of the ignition switch. With the engine running try moving it about a to see if you can replicate the cut out.
Agree. Mine had these exact symptoms and I replaced hall sensors thinking it was that, but it was a broken wire by the ignition. Not the only thing that could cause it, but a known issue. If it turns out not to be the problem I suggest snipping tye cable ties near the switch anyway.
Similar threads
