R1100GS Final Edition hamfistedness. Woe is me.

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Good evening fellow enthusiasts. Oh dear, frustration abounds.
Having very recently returned to GS ownership, with a, new to me, yellow final edition, I embarked on some poking around, and checking up on the bike.
It has good BMW service history until about 9 years ago, then independant and owner serviced it would seem.
Not having had a battery since 2013 I took the battery off and to a local bike parts supplier. He used his Yuasa battery checker that ran a simulated start up procedure,
that eventually flagged up 'Replace battery'. Not surprising after 11 years. OK, new battery in hand, off we jolly well toddle.
Decided at this point to fit a Gerber heated clothing lead to allow my heated bodywarmer and gloves to be used on the bike. Optimate charging lead already on the bike. Fitted a USB lead too,
to allow Iphone charging when using the phone as a satnav. Came with HID spotlights too, already fitted to the crash bars.
So, pretty crowded around the battery terminal area, and pretty fiddly too for a 57 year old whose eyes see things a whole lot better 1/2 a mile away than 3 feet away.
Won't be getting away with Home Bargains 1.50 reading glasses for much longer I can tell you.
So, thinking I could just attach the Gerber lead to the wiring of the accessory socket I managed to ground the sockets positive feed to the frame, not knowing it was live at the time. ( thought it was dead with ignition off ).
Just a quick flash though, enough to make me jump. Anyhow, though better of it, and instead attached it to the battery, with all the other terminals required for the aforesaid.
Everything back together, HID lights work, all ok it seems until I try and start the bike, and no fuel pump noise.
How strange. Check sidestand isn't down and its not. Check sidestand switch operation and seems ok. Sidestand down and zero for the gearchange disappears from the RID, sidestand up and it reappears.
Hold on though, why isn't the 3 bars of petrol showing on the RID, like it did earlier either ??
Bugger bugger. Checked all the fuses and all bleep out ok on my multimeter. Swapped the horn relay for the fuel pump and also motronic relays but not a peep from the fuel pump.
Also, after operating the sidestand for the umpteenth time the clock reverts to 0000 ? What !!!!!
So here it is, Merry Xmas, everybody's having fun, (except me it would seem).
Fellow GS'ers, where do I go from here please ?
Is it something I have done that has caused this malady, or is it an unfortunate coincidence. I can use a multimeter, but am not a bike technician.
What can I check and how do I check it please ?
Any advice, no matter how spurious would be very much welcomed.
Sorry for such a long post, but reading about my tribulations is better than suffering them yourself, I know.
If you can shed any light showing where to head, I will be very grateful.
Here's hoping we can bottom it.
Monday beckons, and with it the promise of servitude, alleviated only by riding our bikes, ( if the fuel pump is working ).
Thank you for reading this missive.
Take care.
Duncan.
 
Evening,

Apologies if this is patronising but the kill switch is in the run position, yes? I know that’s obvious but trust me I’ve been there and felt a right numpty.

Assuming that it is you could try and put 12v to the pump directly (briefly) to see if it’ll actuate?
 
Evening,

Apologies if this is patronising but the kill switch is in the run position, yes? I know that’s obvious but trust me I’ve been there and felt a right numpty.

Assuming that it is you could try and put 12v to the pump directly (briefly) to see if it’ll actuate?
Thank you MotoCammy. Yes, definitely in run. The bike turns over and over fantastically just no pump noise ( which is normally very strident ).
 
Sorry, had to ask!

Can I suggest tat you apply 12v across the fuel pump directly (briefly) and see if you can hear it actuate?

It may also be worth pulling out fuse #5 for a few minutes and then reinstalling (to reset motronic)
 
You got a short circuit high current across the accessory socket and the Fuse 3 (15amp) didn’t blow.

What rated fuse have you got fitted?

The power to the accessory socket comes from the battery via fuse 3 and also feeds to the RID to power the clock. It also feeds to the diagnostic socket and the indicator module to keep the hazard indicators powered with ignition off, and to the Alarm connector if fitted.

The initial indications are that your clock has lost power, which is why it resets to zero when you turn on the ignition, yet you stated all fuses are checked and are OK.

Additionally the fact that you appear to have lost fuel indication when it was there previously points to the Motronic relay not operating to power the motronic and the RID. As the motronic controls the fuel pump relay you won’t get the fuel pump priming.

Put your finger on the Motronic relay at the point when you apply power. You should be able to feel it operate.
Do the same for the Fuel pump relay. If both relays are operating and all fuses are OK then it points to the fuel pump.

Recheck all your fuses, and make sure they are all the correct rating.

Report back when done.
 
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(One did check the Fuel pump Plug is properly seated and fuel line connectors properly clicked home, didn't one ?? )

Switch on the ignition with everything as you would have it to start it up, Wiggle the plug at the tank connector flick the kill switch or cycle the ignition to re initiate the pumps 2 second spin up and see if that helps ?

Re Fuses Use an Incandescent test lamp (One with a proper Bulb) rather than an LED or a Multimeter

There can be just enough to show a Voltage across a fractured fuse with LED or small draw Multimeter BUT not with a proper drain like a bulb type tester

Or just replace Fuse 3 as a starter and don;t bother with all the guff above it Should be a red or Blue 10 amp or 15 amp respectively
 
(One did check the Fuel pump Plug is properly seated and fuel line connectors properly clicked home, didn't one ?? )

Switch on the ignition with everything as you would have it to start it up, Wiggle the plug at the tank connector flick the kill switch or cycle the ignition to re initiate the pumps 2 second spin up and see if that helps ?

Re Fuses Use an Incandescent test lamp (One with a proper Bulb) rather than an LED or a Multimeter

There can be just enough to show a Voltage across a fractured fuse with LED or small draw Multimeter BUT not with a proper drain like a bulb type tester

Or just replace Fuse 3 as a starter and don;t bother with all the guff above it Should be a red or Blue 10 amp or 15 amp respectively
Which is the fuel pump plug and where is it located please ? Could it have been disturbed when I lifted the tank to install the new battery ? Thank you.
 
Which is the fuel pump plug and where is it located please ? Could it have been disturbed when I lifted the tank to install the new battery ? Thank you.
Right hand side just in front of the rear tank bolt It's a flat 4 wire plug that should be fixed to a clip on a small upright support but the clips
 
Which is the fuel pump plug and where is it located please ? Could it have been disturbed when I lifted the tank to install the new battery ? Thank you.
It is on the right hand side of the tank just in front of the rear mounting bolt
It is a flat 4 connection plug it is usually mounted on a plastic clip on a small upright but the clips do have a tendency to break off

If that is the solution of your problem also be aware of the throttle cable on the right hand side becoming dish lodged I'm leaving the throttle partially open and causing all sorts of problems getting started and keeping it running
The fix is very simple just put the cable back into its adjuster
 
You got a short circuit high current across the accessory socket and the Fuse 3 (15amp) didn’t blow.

What rated fuse have you got fitted?

The power to the accessory socket comes from the battery via fuse 3 and also feeds to the RID to power the clock. It also feeds to the diagnostic socket and the indicator module to keep the hazard indicators powered with ignition off, and to the Alarm connector if fitted.

The initial indications are that your clock has lost power, which is why it resets to zero when you turn on the ignition, yet you stated all fuses are checked and are OK.

Additionally the fact that you appear to have lost fuel indication when it was there previously points to the Motronic relay not operating to power the motronic and the RID. As the motronic controls the fuel pump relay you won’t get the fuel pump priming.

Put your finger on the Motronic relay at the point when you apply power. You should be able to feel it operate.
Do the same for the Fuel pump relay. If both relays are operating and all fuses are OK then it points to the fuel pump.

Recheck all your fuses, and make sure they are all the correct rating.

Report back when done.
Good morning. Oh dear, how embarrassing. On returning home yesterday, went to check the connector plug and found it unplugged. I can only assume it pulled out when I lifted the tank high enough to get the battery out and in again. Plugged back together with a reassuring click and away she went. So sorry for the kerfuffle. Fuel gauge working again too. I’m sure I’m not the first, nor shall be the last either.
Many many thanks for taking the time to try and help. It is very much appreciated. Safe travels to you all. Duncan.
 
Reason I joined the forum many moons ago, I had the tank off my first 1150gs back in 2002 and displaced the throttle cable, it ran like a bag of sh#te. In panic mode and local BMW dealer was quoting £100 plus to even look at the bike..
Two minutes ( sorry twenty two minutes due to dial up broadband) and I realised what was wrong and fixed it
 
Glad you got it sorted and it was something nice and simple!

Cheers

Cammy
 
When I went to purchase my 1150 last year, I got the seller's house who had the plugs out as it was missing and wouldnt run smoothly. He went out and got a new set of plugs. Whilst he was away I checked the throttle cables and one was not seated! On his return I did tell him and refitted the original plugs and it ran fine. I gained a brand new set of plugs in the deal!
 
So many of us made that mistake with the throttle bowden cable on the 1150s. I remember riding to my mate's house in flat panic with it running like a bag of spanners thinking I had done some major damage only for him to spot it immediately. It happened so often on here that we had a standard pic to post to help new victims out.
 


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