essjay
Registered user
No "E" stamp on the lens unfortunately but should be only a 5 minute job to put the original bus light back on for an MOT.
There is an "EOE" stamp on the back of the reflector, whatever that means.
R1100GS Touratech Twin Light Conversion
- Thread starter essjay
- Start date
No "E" stamp on the lens unfortunately but should be only a 5 minute job to put the original bus light back on for an MOT.
There is an "EOE" stamp on the back of the reflector, whatever that means.
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Feck that, you never heard of the bogeyman
Besides, only want them as Thunder ain't got any on his
I have the Twin Wonderlick conversion, with the glass lenses and carbon fibre sorround and have yet to have a problem with tham passing the MOT.
I take the bus light with me in a bag to the mot but its not been a problem.
I take the bus light with me in a bag to the mot but its not been a problem.
Thunder
Registered user
Besides, only want them as Thunder ain't got any on his
Oh how will I survive without one?
Oh how will I survive without one?
Any more lights / lighting on that and you'll need a voltmeter
Pykie
Registered user
H4 Hid 50
I fitted a Les whatshisname H4 HiD 50 kit to the standard reflector unit, as you have.
The main beam pattern is a bit odd, though it works well enough, and dip is really good. I do reckon it was well worth fitting.
I find a good dip beam matters more than a good main, as it needs to compete with other vehicle lights while travelling at the same speed that you use a main beam.
One thing does make me uneasy tho: with a twin headlight setup there is always a spare bulb in place should the other bulb/circuit fail suddenly, with a H4 bulb there is a spare element in the bulb. With the H4 setup there is no fallback; if the fuse goes at ninety then there will be a funny little pucker mark in my seat.
For this reason and this reason only I might fit projector lights wired into the main beam circuit, so I dont buy lots of light units and Hid kits and potentiallly worsen my dip beam pattern.
I fitted a Les whatshisname H4 HiD 50 kit to the standard reflector unit, as you have.
The main beam pattern is a bit odd, though it works well enough, and dip is really good. I do reckon it was well worth fitting.
I find a good dip beam matters more than a good main, as it needs to compete with other vehicle lights while travelling at the same speed that you use a main beam.
One thing does make me uneasy tho: with a twin headlight setup there is always a spare bulb in place should the other bulb/circuit fail suddenly, with a H4 bulb there is a spare element in the bulb. With the H4 setup there is no fallback; if the fuse goes at ninety then there will be a funny little pucker mark in my seat.
For this reason and this reason only I might fit projector lights wired into the main beam circuit, so I dont buy lots of light units and Hid kits and potentiallly worsen my dip beam pattern.
essjay
Registered user
Already have a H4 HID in my main light but fancied something a bit different and I love a project.
As mentioned above I'm going to try and make my own. Parts gathered so far:
1 x Projector Dipped Beam
1 x Projector High Beam
2 x H1 50w 4300K Bulbs & Ballasts
2 x 250mm * 333mm NS4 Aluminium Sheets
I think I have everything I need to get going bar a few stainless nuts and bolts. I'll build it first and then order good quality bolts etc so I know the correct sizes to get.
Have a few questions for the masses while I'm here.
On one of the TT twin light setups, they have dual dipped beams and dual high beams on together - I.E. both dipped on at the same time and then both high on at the same time when you flick the switch.
Surely in this case they are powering two 55w bulbs through the one power wire and essentially running 110w on a wire that was designed for 55w?
My plan is to have 50w HID units in each projector. The dipped will operate on it's own but when the high beam is switched on, I want both high and low beam to operate. Am I correct in assuming that on the 1100GS with it's H4 bulb, when the high beam is on, power does NOT run through the wire that powers the dipped beam? So in my case I could not use the dipped wire to power my projector as it would just go off.
If the above is correct, I'm thinking of running a wire from my ignition switiched aux fuse box up to a relay behind the instruments and have that relay controlled by the pilot bulb IF the pilot bulb comes on whenever the lights are on. I've not tested this yet but hopefully it will work. My other option is to use the dipped beam wire and the high beam wire, through a couple of diodes to switch the relay. I'd prefer not go this route though as it's a bit more awkward (and there might be a momentary loss of power to the dipped HID ballast which might not be good).
As mentioned above I'm going to try and make my own. Parts gathered so far:
1 x Projector Dipped Beam
1 x Projector High Beam
2 x H1 50w 4300K Bulbs & Ballasts
2 x 250mm * 333mm NS4 Aluminium Sheets
I think I have everything I need to get going bar a few stainless nuts and bolts. I'll build it first and then order good quality bolts etc so I know the correct sizes to get.
Have a few questions for the masses while I'm here.
On one of the TT twin light setups, they have dual dipped beams and dual high beams on together - I.E. both dipped on at the same time and then both high on at the same time when you flick the switch.
Surely in this case they are powering two 55w bulbs through the one power wire and essentially running 110w on a wire that was designed for 55w?
My plan is to have 50w HID units in each projector. The dipped will operate on it's own but when the high beam is switched on, I want both high and low beam to operate. Am I correct in assuming that on the 1100GS with it's H4 bulb, when the high beam is on, power does NOT run through the wire that powers the dipped beam? So in my case I could not use the dipped wire to power my projector as it would just go off.
If the above is correct, I'm thinking of running a wire from my ignition switiched aux fuse box up to a relay behind the instruments and have that relay controlled by the pilot bulb IF the pilot bulb comes on whenever the lights are on. I've not tested this yet but hopefully it will work. My other option is to use the dipped beam wire and the high beam wire, through a couple of diodes to switch the relay. I'd prefer not go this route though as it's a bit more awkward (and there might be a momentary loss of power to the dipped HID ballast which might not be good).
