R1100GS: When is neutral not neutral

[CDN1100GS]

I recently purchased a R1100GS and while cleaning it, had it on the centre stand. I decided to start it and noticed that, while in neutral and the choke on or throttle open, the real wheel started to spin. With the choke off and no throttle, it doesn't spin. Is this normal or at least, nothing to worry about?

Is it possible that the transmission is not fully disengaging when in neutral as it should.

Also, when at a stop and with the clutch engaged, I had noticed a 'whirring' sound. With the clutch disengaged, in gear or in neutral, the sound isn't present. Is it related and again, normal.

Since buying the bike and being mechanically somewhat naive, I'm turning into a hypochondriac!

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

 

[Paul G (BHT)]

I recently purchased a R1100GS and while cleaning it, had it on the centre stand. I decided to start it and noticed that, while in neutral and the choke on or throttle open, the real wheel started to spin. With the choke off and no throttle, it doesn't spin. Is this normal or at least, nothing to worry about?

Is it possible that the transmission is not fully disengaging when in neutral as it should.

Also, when at a stop and with the clutch engaged, I had noticed a 'whirring' sound. With the clutch disengaged, in gear or in neutral, the sound isn't present. Is it related and again, normal.

Since buying the bike and being mechanically somewhat naive, I'm turning into a hypochondriac!

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

The wheel is being turned by the viscosity of the oil in the gearbox.... which, seeing were you are from, will quite thick this time of year.

All normal..... stop panicking and just ride it

 

[CDN1100GS]

The wheel is being turned by the viscosity of the oil in the gearbox.... which, seeing were you are from, will quite thick this time of year.

All normal..... stop panicking and just ride it

Thanks, my blood pressure has been steadily rising since I was told the transmission might be shot..

 

[CDN1100GS]

Hi

I'm sure I've read that running the bike in gear on the centre stand isn't recommended as the UJ's are at the wrong angle.

Have you owned a BM boxer engines bike before?

Hi, I actually didn't run it in gear while on the centre stand, merely had it in neutral.

I've had a r75/5 and K75; this is my first oil head. Are there any particular quirks to be be aware of before I make an appointment to see a therapist?

 

[John Armstrong]

Hi, I actually didn't run it in gear while on the centre stand, merely had it in neutral.

I've had a r75/5 and K75; this is my first oil head. Are there any particular quirks to be be aware of before I make an appointment to see a therapist?

Just re-read your post and realised I'd read it wrongly so deleted it, but after you'd quoted it

Quirks, hundreds of them, lots of noises, best wear earplugs.

Biggest thing to watch out for is if you take the tank off, or lift it up to change the battery, make sure the throttle cables are reseated properly afterwards or els it runs like sh1t. We've all done it

And then there's oil levels, worthwhile haveing a search and seeing how it's best to work out what the level is. My method is to make sure the bike is hot ( 5 bars on the oil level temp gauge ) but don't idle the bike to get it there, Stop the engine, wait about 5 mins and then check the oil level. The 5 mins is about the time taken to refuel the bike. Others will mention side stands, running around the bike anti-clockwise etc etc, but the key is consistency, and never be tempted to overfill it.

 

[CDN1100GS]

Just re-read your post and realised I'd read it wrongly so deleted it, but after you'd quoted it

Quirks, hundreds of them, lots of noises, best wear earplugs.

Biggest thing to watch out for is if you take the tank off, or lift it up to change the battery, make sure the throttle cables are reseated properly afterwards or els it runs like sh1t. We've all done it

And then there's oil levels, worthwhile haveing a search and seeing how it's best to work out what the level is. My method is to make sure the bike is hot ( 5 bars on the oil level temp gauge ) but don't idle the bike to get it there, Stop the engine, wait about 5 mins and then check the oil level. The 5 mins is about the time taken to refuel the bike. Others will mention side stands, running around the bike anti-clockwise etc etc, but the key is consistency, and never be tempted to overfill it.

Thanks for the clarification John. Interestingly, I just moved the tank back a few inches to mount a bracket for new crash bars. Is it possible that I pinched the cables as you cautioned against and this is contributing to the initial problem I described. It doesn't strike me it would as the bike was in neutral when I noticed the wheel spinning and certainly wouldn't be the case based on Paul G's response.

Funnily enough, I just noticed there was no oil in the window when on the centre stand. I've put in on the side stand and the window is now full. I'll return it to the centre stand in about 20 min.; hopefully I'll be able to at least a little oil.

I absolutely love riding the bike, but these little quirks are driving to me to distraction!

 

[The Other PaulG]

My bike, on centre stand, no throttle or choke, idling in neutral, the rear wheel spins like a beaut.

What a shame she's not chain driven, this would be so useful for oiling the chain!

It stops if I pull the clutch in, so I have assumed its a degree of clutch drag (cable correctly adjusted).

So I could either:
a) worry about it and possibly spend on an expensive repair that might not change anything, or
b) pop it into neutral and pull in the clutch if I'm waiting a long time at a junction. Oh, and spend the moola I've saved on a year's supply of Kronenboug 1664....

Easy choice!

Paul G

 

[Wrigsby1]

Hi CDN1100GS

Re Spinning in neutral - They all do it to a more or less extent.

Re; Wirring with clutch out in neurtal at standstill. Gearboxes for R11's are listed as M93, M94, M97 with M being for model or something and the 9* being for the year of the update. M93's and M94's had taper roller bearings on each end of the input shaft and are noisier in neutral than the later ball bearing types. That's probably the noise.

As long as it's only slight then this is usually OK but if it gets bad then there is a bearing mod where ball bearings are retro fitted.

Worth keeping an ear on but some need changing and some don't. You will know when! Until then enjoy riding

Re oil: Check in the morning when cold after the oil has had plenty of time to settle. If you start the engine and stop it soon after your oil may dissappear from the window!

 

[CDN1100GS]

Hi CDN1100GS

Re Spinning in neutral - They all do it to a more or less extent.

Re; Wirring with clutch out in neurtal at standstill. Gearboxes for R11's are listed as M93, M94, M97 with M being for model or something and the 9* being for the year of the update. M93's and M94's had taper roller bearings on each end of the input shaft and are noisier in neutral than the later ball bearing types. That's probably the noise.

As long as it's only slight then this is usually OK but if it gets bad then there is a bearing mod where ball bearings are retro fitted.

Worth keeping an ear on but some need changing and some don't. You will know when! Until then enjoy riding

Re oil: Check in the morning when cold after the oil has had plenty of time to settle. If you start the engine and stop it soon after your oil may dissappear from the window!

Thanks very much Wrigsby (and the other Paul G), your explanation was very helpful - particularly as the bike is a '94.

Regarding the oil, that's exactly what I did i.e. started it, let it run for a minute or so and turned it off.

Thanks again and best regards from across the Atlantic!

 

[oblertone]

One other thing ...

... don't run the bike on the center stand; just start it and ride away. Otherwise your exhaust will glow red and you'll have even more to worry about. If it's got ABS you'll get a whirrr-clunk when setting off, and periodically after that, that's perfectly normal

 

[Paul G (BHT)]

It stops if I pull the clutch in, so I have assumed its a degree of clutch drag (cable correctly adjusted).

With the bike on the center stand and the gear box in neutral and clutch out (engaged).

If you start the engine and allow to idle what you will have is the output shaft (crankshaft) from the engine turning the input shaft of the gearbox via the clutch.

In moderately cold weather even though the gearbox is in neutral, the oil in the box will be sufficient to cause a ‘drag’ on the freely rotating input shaft and gears. This drag or friction will then get transferred to the output shaft and gears there upon, this will be enough to make the rear wheel spin, but the drag/friction is so minimal that you could stop the wheel spinning by hand*

By pulling in the clutch, what you are effectively doing is separating the two components (engine and gearbox) from each other, hence the reason the wheel stops spinning.

As has already been stated, there is no need to leave these motors to warm up before setting off. I normally have all my gear on (helmet gloves etc) before I even press the go button.

Incidentally, the choke leaver is not a choke in the true sense of the word. It does nothing to alter the mixture of the injection system. Essentially all it does is open the throttle valves slightly.

* Don't blame me if you try this with the bike in gear and end up loosing a few fingers

 

[Wrigsby1]

Great pics!

Re: start up, ride off advice. I remember the handbook saying just this and to use the fast idle lever to stop stalling. K's are advised the same. The old warm up procedure is pretty outdated on most modern stuff.

G