R1150 GS Adventure rebuild advice/problem solving needed please.

GhostCav

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Just got my hands on an 03' twin spark R1150 GSA, my dream bike for a long time now. Just given up sportsbikes to purchase a slightly dropped one.

I took it for a little ride out tonight & it highlighted a few problems, but not as much as the problem I have right at this minute (1:42am).

1st--The problem is the datatool system 3 alarm thats fitted to the bike has been going off most of the night, my neighbours are going to be really pi55ed off come morning. It's got a battery backup so disconneting the bike battery has made no difference. Have put the bike battery on charge now & it has stopped so that may well be the problem (does that sound right?). Thing is it's only a regular 12v charger so I dont want to leave it going all night but I also don't want to be running out to it all night either:mad: .Anyone managed to disconnect the speaker on these alarms? If it would just shutup then it wouldnt be a problem.

2nd issue,
My left hand fork leg is leaking on the slider, is this an easy job or quite difficult.

3rd issue,
The left hand indicators don't work on the switch, they all flash fine with the hazards. I have made sure the cancel button is out properly but no left turn signals, the right side work fine except for issue 4 below. I read there has been some issues with turn signal relays. Is it the same relay for left & right or seperate?

4th issue,
The orange button for the right indicator is missing, obviously snapped off when it was dropped. You can press the switch that should be underneath the button to get the indicator to work. Are the buttons available seperatly or do I need to buy the whole switch?

5th issue,
The front brake feels crap. I can almost pull the lever back to the bars. Pumping it once or twice firms it up where I would expect it to be. Is this a MC seal issue? Also when you do pump it & get good brake feel you sometimes get a wobble, I presume this is a warped disc(s)?

6th concern,
How much flex is normal from the beak,screen & dash on these bikes? Just mine looked a tad wobbly. Should they remain solid or flap about a bit?

I think thats it for now, sorry for the long winded post & possible typo's. It's been a long day & it's getting late now. I'm just used to the boring world of Honda bikes, put key in, start engine, ride until you get where you wanted to go to, switch off.

Hopefully these issues are easy to resolve as I have waited so long to get one of these bikes. I know most are from buying a damaged one so I'm not having a go at GS's, just want to get out there & enjoy it.

Thanks in advance,
a very tired,
Shane.
:confused:
 
Eeek.....:eek:

1) Alarm.....Shouldn't go off just because the battery's flat- it does sense voltage drop to trigger( as well as a trembler) but IIRC it's got to be a significant instant drop (ie someone turning on ignition) rather than just a trickle drop......certainly my Bike battery has gone totally flat without setting off my Datatool alarm before now.

More likely to be a fuse....check No. 5, as this failing will trigger the alarm .

I don't suppose you have the override code for it ?:blast

Other than ripping the thing out (don't it's a thatcham device therefore all the wires are black and it's a pig to reconnect unless you carefully label each wire as you cut it (DAMHIK....nudge Riverking ;) )

I wouldn't think the charger is going to damage the battery in one night....I'd be inclined to leave it connected and just disconnect it first thing tomorrow...it's either that or wrap a damp towel around it I guess :nenau

2) Piece of piss.....there's a thread about it around here somewhere but it's a 5 minute job, no special tools needed and easy due to the telelever suspension arrangement (in effect, the forks are only there to steer with, unbolt the stanchion at the top, drop it out, replace seal, put it all back and rebolt)

3) It's the same relay, in the fuse box under the seat, black thing .
Your problem is with switch (or less likely, the wiring)

4) No idea I'm afraid, but try Motorworks (link is on top of page) and they'll have them if theyr'e available.

5) More likely to just need a good bleeding..certainly try that first anyway.
Again, there are threads here and on Advrider with pics on how to bleed ABS brakes.....search on Steptoe brake bleeding and you'll find them.
Yes, sounds like disc warped....but only 'sometimes get a wobble'? :nenau
Centre stand, spin wheel, look closely....it will be fairly obvious if it is.

6) they do wobble a bit but if it's been dropped there's a chance the subframe is broken or loose (particularlly as we know this one's had front end/bar area damage as you descibe).....get under there and have a good look.
The two halves of the moulding that make up the dash are crap BTW and will wobble...I've pop riveted mine together to stop it.





PS I've got a nasty feeling that the switches aren't available separately ya know.....but hopefully I'm wrong on that.

G'night and good luck :)
 
Thanks for your help there chap, will have a better look around come daylight.
Had to strip the tank off for the first time in the dark as couldnt find a torch in the dark with the alarm going off all the while. Even managed to find the tamper sensor microswitch & cable tie it closed to see if that would help.
Have noticed that the battery is a BMW one, maybe the original one?

Gonna look for an optimate later today & maybe a new battery.

Thanks once again for your input, I have a steep learning curve with these bikes.
 
Pull the in-line fuse on the alarm (but don't lose it!). Worked with mine. Stops the alarm, but you still need to find the cause...

Dave.
 
J

6th concern,
How much flex is normal from the beak,screen & dash on these bikes? Just mine looked a tad wobbly. Should they remain solid or flap about a bit?
OE Adventure screen can flex a bit, more so if Tobinators are fitted.

The beak is only secured by four bolts underneath and two on the top. It shouldn't flex much at all. I noticed mine was waving about immediately after it was damaged.

The two fixings at the top and inside are fairly fragile. They are only brass threaded inserts in a plastic web, The threaded insert can pull out and the plastic support web can snap off.

The fixings are shown as '6' here:

B0003769.png
 
Pull the in-line fuse on the alarm (but don't lose it!). Worked with mine. Stops the alarm, but you still need to find the cause...

Dave.
Hi Dave,
On mine that just sets the alarm straight off.:(

Now it's daylight & I can see what I'm doing it seems the alarm will go off if you allow the motion sensors to arm (They come on automatically when the alarm self arms). With the sensors turned off it seems fine. Last night I was pressing everything & trying all sorts of things to shut it up so I must of done this last night as it didnt go off from 3am onwards. I had also put the bike on charge so didnt know what had stopped it going off.

Cheers for the info on the beak Mike P,
I have had a quick look & all seems well up front. Just not used to all that being up front there I guess.

Next thing is, has anyone got a picture of the seat front mount? I presume there is one but mine is just held on by the rear locking part although there is evidence of a mount being up front.

Thanks once again,
Shane
 
Next thing is, has anyone got a picture of the seat front mount? I presume there is one but mine is just held on by the rear locking part although there is evidence of a mount being up front.

Thanks once again,
Shane

These are the seat mounts, there should be two cups on the seat itself which fit around these rubbers.
 

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I learnt the hard way never to trust a 2nd hand alarm... Particularly if you don't have the full documentation... and it has an obvious fault.

get rid.
 
Today I have got rid of my alarm, didnt fancy another sleepless night & annoying the neighbours. Local guy who used to be in the same MC club as myself ripped the thing out & installed a imobiliser switch for me all for £50.
Now I can enjoy my first few days of BMW ownership (in peace)

DSC01754.jpg

Noisy b*****d!

DSC01759.jpg

It is actually still going off, but I disconnected the speaker. Now how do I get some payback, think a lump hammer should do it.

Next job fork seals, if anyone local to me fancies coming round & showing me how it's it done (Beer tokens available) that would help as I'm a total newb at fork stuff.

Number 6,
Thnaks for the info there, I thought there should be something to hold it down. Will inquire about it.

Roddy, cheers for the link there, very very helpful.

Ordered 2nd hand switch gear for both from sites advertised on the site, also a few other bits & pieces including the proper GS tool kit that mine was lacking.
Hopefully will be ready for the MOT soon.

Once again thanks for all the help.
Shane
 
Ta for that BB,
I had already done a search for it after I posted. Found it & I'm amazed how simple it looks. Still getting used to the idea of telever suspension I guess, I was imagining all sorts of springs & fasteners etc.

Will order a set of seals for both sides & have a crack at that.
 
Just as a conclusion to this thread, the GSA is back on the road two weeks after I bought it as a Cat D write off.
I have replaced/fixed/sorted the following.
-Datatool System 3 removed.
-Seat front mount replaced.
-Tool kit sourced.
-bled rear brake & replaced fluid.
-Refitted tank after adjusting mounts which were bent a tad.
-Replaced slightly bent handlebars.
-Fitted S/H left hand instrument switches (Knackered Microswitch).
-Fitted S/H right hand instrument switches (Broken indicator button).
-refitted front beak/mudguard as a few bolts had been pulled out.
-Bled front brakes & flushed with new fluid.
-Fitted s/h front discs (Old ones warped).
-Replaced left fork seal.
-Aligned front end.

It sailed right through the MOT today with no advisories at all. Well chuffed as it's the first bike I have ever done my own work on. Only used to working on my Jeep & cars.

V5 came monday so it was taxed after the MOT & then clocked up about 150 miles just riding about. Got forced off the road by an artic lorry down a single track lane, ended up in a very boggy water run off area about 2" below the road surface. Ended up doing some good unintentional rooster tails trying to get out of that & back on the road with my half worn Anakee's.:eek
The transition from my old bike (03 Fireblade) is quite dramatic, although I love the way the GSA picks up when you give it some throttle. Just feels wrong that something this big & heavy should go that well. Loving the comfortable seating postion, it's like rolling about on a large clunky & rattling sofa!:thumb

Followed a big thunder & lightning storm all the way back home, everytime I got too close to it I ended up stopping & watching the fork lightning striking the ground a mile or so ahead. So i'm loving my bike now, was a bit worried after trading in my mint Fireblade for the GSA, but the worlds all good now. Although after the Honda I was getting worried about the random clunks & rattle's that I am now just putting down to character on the GSA.:eek :thumb

DSC01802.jpg


I'm converted now, it's a BMW thing I guess. Oh & it means I can stop using my Jeep to get to work as I was last week. 60 mile round trip to the railway station when the Jeep does about 10mpg aint good!:eek::mmmm

I just want to thank everyone on this site who answered my dumb noob questions & helped me out with turning the initial dented & dishevelled looking bike into my now pride & joy. Also to Motorworks & Sherlocks for their excellent knowledge of these bikes & supplying parts so fast.

If I hadn't of had a few beers tonight I think I would be out there doing some more miles..............even with the supposed crappy headlights!:D
 
Well done mate sounds like your passion to get things sorted and guidance from fellow site users has paid off......

And you even had time to take in the lightening:eek:
 
GS ownership does that to you.....you enter a totally different time and space.
Lazy riding instead of working damned hard at it.
 


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