R1150 GS RAM Ball Install

[Global Rider]

Since I recently bought myself a new Garmin GPS, I thought it was about time that I install a dedicated mount instead of using Velcro strapping to hold my GPS to the crossbar pad.

I didn't like the RAM ball mounting options offered by RAM, so I came up with my own solution. What you see is a modified RAM-B-236 ball installed atop the BMW threaded bushing that holds down the BMW handguard.

The following describes the simple steps required for this installation.

The BMW threaded bushing after it was modified. It was removed by unscrewing the T-30 fastener (6 mm) from the underside of the BMW handguard. The minor diameter of an M6 x 1.00 fastener is 5 mm, but I used an M4 drill bit to drill the pilot hole the remainder of the way through the threaded bushing so as not to shave any material off the existing threads. It was then finish drilled using an M5 drill bit, the size required for an M6 x 1.00 tap.

The RAM-B-236 ball with 3/8" - 16 thread post as received from RAM.

The modified RAM-B-236 ball after the 3/8" - 16 threaded post was cut off, filed flush with the flange, lapped on wet sandpaper and then center punched, drilled and tapped for an M6 x 1.00 threaded fastener. 10 mm of threaded length is adequate.

The modified RAM-B-236 ball with an M6 x 1.00 stud installed. Loctite 242 was used on the stud. The exposed threaded length should be no more than 9 mm long so that it doesn't bottom out against the existing fastener that is screwed into the BMW threaded bushing from the bottom.

Additional notes:

The BMW threaded bushing comes "keyed" so that it doesn't rotate during installation. See the photo of the modified threaded bushing and you'll notice one of the two "flats".

The T-30, M6 x 1.00 BMW fastener that screws into the BMW threaded bushing from the bottom was originally coated with Loctite 242 (blue). The threads were cleaned and Loctite 242 was re-applied prior to re-assembly.

When screwing the modified RAM-B-236 ball with stud into the BMW threaded bushing, Loctite 242 (medium strength) should be used. Should any torque be applied to the RAM ball, then Loctite 270 (permanent strength) should be used at both ends of the modified RAM-B-236 stud.

In any case, be it a GPS, camera or whatever, I use a tether as a back-up.

A nylon washer was installed between the RAM-B-236 ball and the BMW threaded bushing; visible in the first photo.

The finished product is elegant looking due to the lack of the usual bracketry employed when installing a RAM ball.

 

[MikeP]

Very neat solution.

(Are you related to Tarka? You've polished the Ram-ball mounting haven't you? )

 

[Global Rider]

Very neat solution.

Yeah, it is isn't it. Clean and simple! Last night I installed the 3" RAM arm and cradle for my Garmin 60 Cx to check the position of the whole set-up. It couldn't be better!

Are you related to Tarka? You've polished the Ram-ball mounting haven't you?

Nope. Who is Tarka?

Both my RAM balls as received had two gouges (see smaller RAM pic) in the shank due to slipage in the chuck jaws as they (RAM) were cutting the threads. I had to chuckle..."Proudly made in the USA" is what the RAM label states...I guess there are many levels of pride.

I have zero tolerance for crappy workmanship, so I turned down the shank of the RAM ball on a lathe. I used the thread stub to grip the ball in the lathe since it was later being cut off anyway.

Polishing the surface slows down oxidation.

 

[PanEuropean]

Hi Alex:

Nice to see another person here who splits their time between Canada and Switzerland.

Thanks for posting the write-up - your workmanship is first class. I would like to make one caution to folks who may be considering doing a similar install - that caution being that it is generally best to try and mount the GPSR exactly on the center-line of the handlebars, because that will avoid the problem of inadvertently creating a steering input when you press the buttons on the GPSR as you are riding. When we operate the GPSR (press the buttons) while we are riding, we are 'heads down', and if the GPSR is mounted to one side or another of the steering head, those button pushes can result in a steering input - which we might not notice right away because we are looking at the GPSR, not at the path of travel of the motorcycle.

Michael

 

[Global Rider]

Hi Alex:

Nice to see another person here who splits their time between Canada and Switzerland.

Well actually all of, or at least, most of Europe. We just don't have good beer here. The first thing I hit after getting my insurance there is the beer store.

I would like to make one caution to folks who may be considering doing a similar install - that caution being that it is generally best to try and mount the GPSR exactly on the center-line of the handlebars, because that will avoid the problem of inadvertently creating a steering input when you press the buttons on the GPSR as you are riding. When we operate the GPSR (press the buttons) while we are riding, we are 'heads down', and if the GPSR is mounted to one side or another of the steering head, those button pushes can result in a steering input - which we might not notice right away because we are looking at the GPSR, not at the path of travel of the motorcycle.

Good point.

But even if that "threded bushing" were on the centerline, I would have mounted it off to the side so as not to obstruct the view of my instruments.

Also, not an issue in my case since I am aware of not creating unwanted steering inputs.

 

[PanEuropean]

...not an issue in my case since I am aware of not creating unwanted steering inputs.

Hi again:

That's really the key issue - being aware of the possibility of creating an unwanted steering input. The only reason I mentioned it was to make others aware of it as well.

Michael

 

[Global Rider]

Hi again:

That's really the key issue - being aware of the possibility of creating an unwanted steering input. The only reason I mentioned it was to make others aware of it as well.

Michael

Awareness and judgement come from my thousands of hours in the cockpit...as you are well aware of, I'm sure.

 

[guitarman]

And I thought you shouldn't press the buttons whilst on the move.......

 

[Deleted account 210609001]

Hello Again

Hi Alex,

It's a small world AGAIN. First alpineroads.com, now here.

Very neat job on your RAM ball mount, by the way.

Robin.

 

[Global Rider]

Hi Alex,

It's a small world AGAIN. First alpineroads.com, now here.

Very neat job on your RAM ball mount, by the way.

Robin.

Hi Robin,

That it is.

Yes, I like a clean and simple approach to everything, especially if it does an equal or better job.

I was just drilling and tapping the BMW threaded bushing for my other GS Adventure, the other night. It is all ready to mount.

Along with the RAM twist-on suction mount on my car, I'll be able to move the whole set-up (RAM arm and cradle with 60 Cx) from vehicle to vehicle.

 

[Global Rider]

The Finished Product

As viewed from the seated position, this is what my Garmin 60 Cx looks like mounted to my RAM ball install as discussed above.

Positioning couldn't be better.

Note the Garmin lanyard that I've looped around the stalk of the mirror to act as a tether.

Anyone else wanting to use this set-up, here is the itemized list:
- RAM-B-236, RAM 1" ball with 3/8 - 16 thread post, aluminium, modified as per the instructions in the initial post;
- RAP-B-201, RAM double socket arm for 1" balls, 3" long, plastic;
- RAP-B-238, RAM 2.5" x 1 5/16" base with 1" ball, plastic;
- RAM-HOL-GA2, RAM holder for Garmin 60 series, plastic.
- and one very capable Garmin GPSMAP 60 Cx.

 

[BurnieM]

I think you mean;
RAM-HOL-GA12

A RAM-HOL-GA2 is great for a GPS V but not so hot for a GPSmap 60

 

[Global Rider]

I think you mean;
RAM-HOL-GA12

A RAM-HOL-GA2 is great for a GPS V but not so hot for a GPSmap 60

Thanks. I couldn't seem to edit it on this site, but it has been corrected on all others it has been posted on.