R1150GSA clutch

majaem

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Hi all,

Can anyone in the know let me know how much, on average, it would cost to replace the clutch on a R1150gsa.

Thank you,
 
hi mate i am local to you,if ur up to the job yourself, i have a workshop and a bike workshop table for you to do the job on,basically as long as its done within a couple of days it would be fine , i would be able to help out when i am not busy with other things
cheers ian
 
Local bike shop about €300-400 , your self about €60 😃
60 euro$ how do you work that out then?
a clutch kit is just over £200+oils etc.
sure you can save a fair bit by just replacing the friction plate but if you are going to go to the trouble of doing the job at least do it properly:blast
@£350 at an independant:thumb
 
Clutch plate , bolts and spring ok maybe 80 , rest only if needed
Oils ? What oils ...
 
Clutch plate , bolts and spring ok maybe 80 , rest only if needed
Oils ? What oils ...
so you are going to remove the gearbox and not drain the oil ,sorry no disrespect,but thats just fucking lazy.
dropping the oil will be a really good indicator of whether the gearbox is ok,if the oil comes out with a load of metal and crap, it may need a looksee.:blast
if your too fucking tight to drain it sods law says you will be pulling the box out again.
i think i would rather dump a few quids worth of oil and do the job right first time .:thumb
maybe thats just me !
carry on:D
 
Hi Ian,

I am useless with mechanics so would defo need a garage whether independent or bmw to do the job depending on cost!

I asked the original question to get a guide on how much it would cost.

Thanks for your offer though I appreciate it.

Mark
 
so you are going to remove the gearbox and not drain the oil ,sorry no disrespect,but thats just fucking lazy.
dropping the oil will be a really good indicator of whether the gearbox is ok,if the oil comes out with a load of metal and crap, it may need a looksee.:blast
if your too fucking tight to drain it sods law says you will be pulling the box out again.
i think i would rather dump a few quids worth of oil and do the job right first time .:thumb
maybe thats just me !
carry on:D
It's bad for environment to waist oil just because it make Sense .
 
I did mine mate last year.first time.the jobs not too bad.just take your time and allow a couple of days.i got lucky with a used clutch with only half a mil of usage missing off the friction plate.£65 if I remember right.because my gearbox was silky smooth I didnt drain the oil.i pulled the rear wheel,swingarm,and gearbox off altogether but having just replaced my box I.d recommend separating them.and yes I am a tight barsteward but it all works.
 
because my gearbox was silky smooth I didnt drain the oil
You didn't drain oil that lazy ha ha ha
But yeah +1
Take all in one box and rear drive , but recommend New clutch bolts , everything else replace if needed .
 
You didn't drain oil that lazy ha ha ha
But yeah +1
Take all in one box and rear drive , but recommend New clutch bolts , everything else replace if needed .

I've changed 2 clutches on my 1150's. The first one was over winter and I took time to strip the rear end, lube splines, change oils and generally inspect and clean everything. The 2nd time round was over summer, I was keen to get back on the road ASAP so removed the entire rear end in one hit, didn't drain any oil and just got the job done pronto.

Both options work. Your choice will depend upon your constraints. Nice to see MB doing a proper job though:thumb

Anyway the OP doesn't even want to do the work himself!!
 
Why does any oil need draining ?

It's a dry clutch and all the other oil containing components being removed are sealed.
 
Why does any oil need draining ?

It's a dry clutch and all the other oil containing components being removed are sealed.

You're right - it doesn't. If you're looking to do the job as quickly as possible, don't bother. However depending upon mileage since last oil change, it's probably not a bad time to have a look if you've got the spare time.
 
If the clutch has lasted around 100,000 miles I'd be checking the gearbox oil for swarf whilst everything was in bits. Makes sense when it's such a major job to strip everything out.
 
If the clutch has lasted around 100,000 miles I'd be checking the gearbox oil for swarf whilst everything was in bits. Makes sense when it's such a major job to strip everything out.
Gearbox oil should be done every 12000ml
 
Whatever you do don't just replace the plate - get a complete clutch kit (or get whoever does it to fit a complete clutch kit)

Just doing the plate is a false economy - you'll have it in bits again within a few thousand miles.

And there are all sorts of other things you can check while you've split the bike - it's not the sort of thing you'll want to be doing very often ;)

Regarding doing the fluids - when I had my 1100, I replaced my gearbox oil with every engine oil change - it's only a tenner to do the gearbox and final drive oils - why not do it?...
 


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