R1150GSA Fluid service done

Tobers

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Happy days with my new-to-me 57k mile R1150GSA.

Final drive, transmission and engine oils changed today with assistance from my mate Mike (and his garage and tools). The final drive and transmission oils were both in really good nick, with no metallic sludge which is great. Engine oil was very dirty and only 2.5 litres came out of the warm engine, including from the filter. This wasn’t much of a surprise as the sight glass was only showing oil when the bike was on its sidestand. No metallic bits of sludge though. The sight glass had been so filthy I imagine the oil level hasn’t been checked for ages.

New fluids in with new bolts and crush washers, all smelling very oily and lovely. I slightly overfilled the engine oil, but that’s not a first for me. The bike is now a lot quieter. It wasn’t rattly, but it just sounds a lot smoother and better now. All very easy except the bash plate and engine bars which were the most fiddly bit. Got to say the workshop manual thingy in the sticky at the top of this forum is really good.

Then it had a really good degrease and wash to get rid of lots of filth. It looks really good. I think it will need a clutch in the near future but not just yet thankfully. The sidestand needs a new bushing. I took out the flashing ABS general warning bulb that had been covered with tape (the bike as ABS removed, and braided lines on). Wheel bearings all sound and feel fine as do all the back end bearings.

Other stuff to do - new battery, new fuel pump and lines and filter and level sensor, air filter. Plugs were done only 4k miles ago so they can stay. Valves sound great so I’ll leave them alone. Nice to be back on an old analogue GS.

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Front brake disk bolts are rusty. Before I take one out to size it, does anyone know the sizes so I can get some stainless steel replacements?
 
take your watch off , before you damage it , the bike , or you.
It’s been my daily beater for 20 years now, and has been through pretty much everything from mountain bike crashes to chainsawing to stone wall restoration. Fairly indestructible. Well spotted though :)
 
Check out Shawstainless on ebay.
Reasonable price, top quality and service.
 
See if you can get Titanium rather than stainless.

Stronger, lighter, greater tensile strength in shear force, better corrosion resistance than many grades of stainless. Less prone to galling.

Only a wee bit more expensive.
 
Plenty of heat from a hot air gun will soften the Loctite on the threads and aid removal.
Try and protect the surrounding wheel paintwork and allow the heat to ‘soak’ down the studs.
Good idea to run a tap down the threads before fitting new ones.
 


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