Almost, but I now know why Steptoe and Rudimoto are always wearing beards.
Just about to heat up the rear case and see if I can get it to shift through the box.
R1150GSA Gearbox
- Thread starter (RIP) DitchWater
- Start date
Almost, but I now know why Steptoe and Rudimoto are always wearing beards.
Just about to heat up the rear case and see if I can get it to shift through the box.
No, but I fell off five times to the left at the Boxer Beet, and once to the right.
I'm about to reassemble it and see if I can get it to shift up and down the box manually.
Bent shaft and/or linkage
Bent shaft and/or linkage
Not really JB. That was July and several thousand miles to loads of other places.
Anyway it's now back together unbolted, and sans new seals, but it works manually all the way up and down the box.
I counted them all in and counted the all out. I can't imagine any other static test so I suppose it's now suck and see.Now, how to get the unloved swingarm bearings out? One collapsed, the other's about to, and they're very rusty.
To anyone who knows: Have I installed this gearbox input seal too far? It's approximately 8.5mm down from the top of the casting.
It looks further in than the one in MikeP's earlier picture and the one I took before the dismantling process began.
Before:
And after:
Will it be a problem?
I was perhaps a touch over excited at the prospect of seeing light at the end of the tunnel and tapped down until the seal bottomed out.
I think it may be sitting on the input shaft bearing.
It looks further in than the one in MikeP's earlier picture and the one I took before the dismantling process began.
Before:
And after:
Will it be a problem?
I was perhaps a touch over excited at the prospect of seeing light at the end of the tunnel and tapped down until the seal bottomed out.
I think it may be sitting on the input shaft bearing. 
flatdog
Registered user
Definately not good.
That seal is probably protruding into the inside of the box, and there won't be much sealing going on as a result.
Could you lever the shaft upwards to get the seal back up? (donno what risk it creates)
That seal is probably protruding into the inside of the box, and there won't be much sealing going on as a result.
Could you lever the shaft upwards to get the seal back up? (donno what risk it creates)
Definately not good.
That seal is probably protruding into the inside of the box, and there won't be much sealing going on as a result.
Could you lever the shaft upwards to get the seal back up? (donno what risk it creates)
Thanks. I realised that and have just taken it apart again and adjusted its' depth. It was probably sitting on the input shaft' bearing seal.
I've just come to google Loctite 574.
It's way too much money. I might just try a smear of semi hardening from Halfords although I didn't notice any gasketing on the cases when I separated the gearbox.
Last edited:
Pauly S
Registered user
as far as i remember
there should be some high performqnce black silicone on the mating faces.
there should be some high performqnce black silicone on the mating faces.
Nothing as rich as that. It's lightly brush will low performance gearbox oil. 
Pauly S
Registered user
ive got some
if you want it,you dont want that leaking matey.
if you want it,you dont want that leaking matey.
Thanks,The gear box has since been reassembled for nearly 22Hrs since your earlier post and I'm not taking apart again.
I have to admit that the installation of three of the seals requires a bit of concentration without the BMW tool kit but mine are new and I'm not expecting any problems.
I'm just cleaning the mud and sand out of those parts I don't normally reach at the moment and when it all goes back together I'll find out whether I've done a good job or not.
I don't know.
I took it apart. Nothing fell out and nothing was broken, as far as I can tell. There are bearings under some of the gear wheels but they all felt okay, the circlips are present and the drained oil had not debris.
I put it back together and ran it manually on the bench and it worked. I spoke to a nice mechanic at Southport Superbikes (BMW) when I was there this week with someone, and he didn't think there was much more I could do other than try it out.
That'll happen next week if I can get all my parts.
Well, after the festive hiatus the replacement parts which were identified as either needed or worth replacing whilst the bike was in pieces started to arrive yesterday. 
What I needed before anything was the clutch assy fixing bolts because I removed it all to check the clutch plate thickness. I did this because of the uncertainty which I found when attempting that supposed measurement which can be done whilst it is all attached to the flywheel. The results varied between 5.2mm and 5.6mm so I decided to remove the lot and find the truth. With the clutch friction plate in my hand I found it to be gnats cock over 6mm and decided that it was going back in and learnt that the aforementioned measurement is erroneous and does not give satisfactory results.
Anyway the clutch assy, gearbox and swinging arm are now all reinstalled but when I picked up the final drive I found a small amount of oil around its input seal. I had noticed a bit when I inspected it sometime after removal but have found that it seems to be dependant upon how it is stored.
When I went back to the final drive after its long wait it had been stored like this and drained of its oil...
It had been wiped out inside and had its paralever bearings replaced and IIRC it was okay.
Then last night I postioned it like this, in readiness to be installed and found there was a bit of oil running into the threaded ring...
With this, I gave it a wipe clean, squirted some oil in and rested it as in picture 1) above overnight to see if it would leak and It did not. So I then positioned it as in picture 2) and it leaked again but only the small amount shown above and continues to do this repetitively.
I suspect that this is not ideal but wondered if anyone else had noticed this characteristic and whether I am in imminent danger needing that seal replaced.
What I needed before anything was the clutch assy fixing bolts because I removed it all to check the clutch plate thickness. I did this because of the uncertainty which I found when attempting that supposed measurement which can be done whilst it is all attached to the flywheel. The results varied between 5.2mm and 5.6mm so I decided to remove the lot and find the truth. With the clutch friction plate in my hand I found it to be gnats cock over 6mm and decided that it was going back in and learnt that the aforementioned measurement is erroneous and does not give satisfactory results.
Anyway the clutch assy, gearbox and swinging arm are now all reinstalled but when I picked up the final drive I found a small amount of oil around its input seal. I had noticed a bit when I inspected it sometime after removal but have found that it seems to be dependant upon how it is stored.
When I went back to the final drive after its long wait it had been stored like this and drained of its oil...
It had been wiped out inside and had its paralever bearings replaced and IIRC it was okay.
Then last night I postioned it like this, in readiness to be installed and found there was a bit of oil running into the threaded ring...
With this, I gave it a wipe clean, squirted some oil in and rested it as in picture 1) above overnight to see if it would leak and It did not. So I then positioned it as in picture 2) and it leaked again but only the small amount shown above and continues to do this repetitively.
I suspect that this is not ideal but wondered if anyone else had noticed this characteristic and whether I am in imminent danger needing that seal replaced.
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160609
Not unheard of, steptoe did mine as the locking ring/nut is fookin tight
Not unheard of, steptoe did mine as the locking ring/nut is fookin tight
Pauly S
Registered user
dont dodge the issue
Change it. you will regret it later, when all oil the drops out halfway to timbuktu, a seal is that, a seal, not a calibrated leak device.
Only british motorcycles have calibrated constant oil loss...oh and old Harleys
Change it. you will regret it later, when all oil the drops out halfway to timbuktu, a seal is that, a seal, not a calibrated leak device.
Only british motorcycles have calibrated constant oil loss...oh and old Harleys
I suspect that this is not ideal but wondered if anyone else had noticed this characteristic and whether I am in imminent danger needing that seal replaced.
You must also replace the compression ring as well as the seal.
.
Thank You Squire,
I have read your informative post, as highlighted by fatnfast, and will aquire those parts for a near future installation when I can get my hands on the tools needed to accomplish the task.
In the mean time, the bike is now back on two wheels because I had to move it in the garage to make space for the loaned DR 400 because it was too near the doors. That job was made difficult because I could not fit either of my rear shocks because the geezer who swapped my springs (the shocks need a rebuild but I am taking a chance on one being okay) misaligned the preload hoses on both of them and prevented them from being fitted; I had to remove the hose on one shock and plug the joint to make it fit.
It never ends at this time of year.
I have read your informative post, as highlighted by fatnfast, and will aquire those parts for a near future installation when I can get my hands on the tools needed to accomplish the task.
In the mean time, the bike is now back on two wheels because I had to move it in the garage to make space for the loaned DR 400 because it was too near the doors. That job was made difficult because I could not fit either of my rear shocks because the geezer who swapped my springs (the shocks need a rebuild but I am taking a chance on one being okay) misaligned the preload hoses on both of them and prevented them from being fitted; I had to remove the hose on one shock and plug the joint to make it fit.
It never ends at this time of year.
Right, the bike is now mostly back together, excluding the crash bars, weather protection and panniers. I have scooted it up the driveway one gear at a time and been up and down the box and all seems to okay except for a couple shifts from 3rd upwards . I suspect that those higher gears are going to need a bit of driving thrust to ensure they engage fully so I'm off for a quick test ride.
I'll take it to the top of the hill so that I can roll it back down in case I have any further problems.
. I suspect that those higher gears are going to need a bit of driving thrust to ensure they engage fully so I'm off for a quick test ride.I'll take it to the top of the hill so that I can roll it back down in case I have any further problems.
flatdog
Registered user
Is it search party time yot
Similar threads
