JimVonBaden
Guest
I know I promised this a long time ago, but the DVD took over and not only have I not gotten the TB Sync done, I haven’t been riding nearly as much as much as I wanted either.
Anyhow, here are the basic steps I used to do a TB sync at home. Notice I do not do an idle sync, because on the 1200 it is not possible. Nor is it possible to adjust the idle speed. This is all done via the stepper motors by the computer.
NOTE: Read the whole procedure before beginning.
CAUTION: I can do this in a few minutes, so I do not generally use a fan to keep the engine cool. But many take a little longer, and it is recommended that a large fan is used to ensure you do not over heat the motor.
First make sure the bike is at full temperature. I like to take a minimum 10 minute ride. I also do the TB sync AFTER adjusting the valves to ensure the best results. See this thread(click here) for details.
If you still have your carbon canister on you will have this hose, otherwise you will have a cap here like the other side. Put one hose from the Twinmax on here.
Here is the right side, and you put the other hose from the Twinmax here where the rubber cap is.
Here is a photo of the Twinmax hose installed.
On this TB Sync I disconnected the stepper motors. I had the power off when I did this, and made sure the connectors wouldn’t make contact. Some say this is the right way to do it as it parks the stepper motors before starting, and ensures they do not affect the TB sync off idle.
I have done it both ways and have not been able to definitively detect a difference.
With the engine off, I adjust the Twinmax at near maximum sensitivity to make sure the needle is centered.
I then start the bike and check it at idle. It looks the same as above, except you will notice the needle swinging back and forth less than 1-0-1 across the center. This is normal, and not adjustable at home. It shouldn’t need it anyhow. If yours is off center by more than half of one number, in other words the needle is swinging back and forth with nearly a “1” as its center, you need to have a dealer check it out. I have NOT ever seen this, but it is possible.
I then take the rpm’s up to 2K and check the Twinmax for center. If it is not, I have to adjust it.
Note: I use a throttle lock to hold it steady, otherwise it is hard to not vary the RPM a little.
Using a 10mm wrench I loosen the lock nut.
Now I adjust the cable using the knurled nut and my fingers. In this photo you can see me adjusting it, and that it is off center. I adjust it until it is centered.
Note: Before starting the adjustment process, make sure you have at least 1mm slack in the cables, and never adjust one side so that all the slack is gone. If you remove the slack, put it back and go adjust the other side to sync.
Here is another view of adjusting the cable using the knurled adjuster.
I then take it up to 4K RPM and check it again.
Now I use two wrenches to tighten the locking nut. I tighten it to just snug, and check my TB sync again. It is easy to tighten the nut and throw off the sync.
Here is a close-up of the wrenches.
NOTE: Sometimes it is hard to get the nut snug, and keep the sync exact. To do this I snug down the nuts, then use a pair of pliers and gently turn the knurled know to get the sync exact. Then finish tightening the lock nut to 4nm.
A final check shows the sync dead on and you are done.
Remove the Twinmax hoses, reinstall the rubber caps and/or hose, and go for a ride!
Jim
Anyhow, here are the basic steps I used to do a TB sync at home. Notice I do not do an idle sync, because on the 1200 it is not possible. Nor is it possible to adjust the idle speed. This is all done via the stepper motors by the computer.
NOTE: Read the whole procedure before beginning.
CAUTION: I can do this in a few minutes, so I do not generally use a fan to keep the engine cool. But many take a little longer, and it is recommended that a large fan is used to ensure you do not over heat the motor.
First make sure the bike is at full temperature. I like to take a minimum 10 minute ride. I also do the TB sync AFTER adjusting the valves to ensure the best results. See this thread(click here) for details.
If you still have your carbon canister on you will have this hose, otherwise you will have a cap here like the other side. Put one hose from the Twinmax on here.
Here is the right side, and you put the other hose from the Twinmax here where the rubber cap is.
Here is a photo of the Twinmax hose installed.
On this TB Sync I disconnected the stepper motors. I had the power off when I did this, and made sure the connectors wouldn’t make contact. Some say this is the right way to do it as it parks the stepper motors before starting, and ensures they do not affect the TB sync off idle.
I have done it both ways and have not been able to definitively detect a difference.
With the engine off, I adjust the Twinmax at near maximum sensitivity to make sure the needle is centered.
I then start the bike and check it at idle. It looks the same as above, except you will notice the needle swinging back and forth less than 1-0-1 across the center. This is normal, and not adjustable at home. It shouldn’t need it anyhow. If yours is off center by more than half of one number, in other words the needle is swinging back and forth with nearly a “1” as its center, you need to have a dealer check it out. I have NOT ever seen this, but it is possible.
I then take the rpm’s up to 2K and check the Twinmax for center. If it is not, I have to adjust it.
Note: I use a throttle lock to hold it steady, otherwise it is hard to not vary the RPM a little.
Using a 10mm wrench I loosen the lock nut.
Now I adjust the cable using the knurled nut and my fingers. In this photo you can see me adjusting it, and that it is off center. I adjust it until it is centered.
Note: Before starting the adjustment process, make sure you have at least 1mm slack in the cables, and never adjust one side so that all the slack is gone. If you remove the slack, put it back and go adjust the other side to sync.
Here is another view of adjusting the cable using the knurled adjuster.
I then take it up to 4K RPM and check it again.
Now I use two wrenches to tighten the locking nut. I tighten it to just snug, and check my TB sync again. It is easy to tighten the nut and throw off the sync.
Here is a close-up of the wrenches.
NOTE: Sometimes it is hard to get the nut snug, and keep the sync exact. To do this I snug down the nuts, then use a pair of pliers and gently turn the knurled know to get the sync exact. Then finish tightening the lock nut to 4nm.
A final check shows the sync dead on and you are done.
Remove the Twinmax hoses, reinstall the rubber caps and/or hose, and go for a ride!
Jim
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