R1200GS Adv motor cutting out (2008 MK II)

Me too

Hi
New here so please be gentle...and I'm no mechanic either so don't expect me to know what I'm talking about!

My 08 1200 adventure has started to stall between 3-2nd as well. I've owned it for 8 months and the problem only started 2 months ago. I suspected it just needed a good service as it had gone past its due mileage. I commute to London and do 70 miles a day.

Thus far I've had it serviced and the problem worsened on the first ride up to work; twice in the space of an hour. Phoned BMW Cooper and booked it in for the Friday. The bike rode perfectly for the next few days and just when I thought it had sorted itself, done it again.

To cut a long story short BMW have advised a new starter motor (I'm no mechanic as I've said, but this seems a bit odd?), which should be fitted under extended warranty.
I'm hopefully going to pick the bike up today with the view that if this doesn't sort the problem, I will just keep giving it back to them as an ongoing problem.

I'll let you all know how I get on?

Onlychild
 
One other possibility is a porous inlet manifold. I've come across this a few times on the 1100 and 1150 bikes. Its usually the left manifold on them ,but on the 1200 bikes the fault is usually the right side. With the engine hot and the diagnostic machine checking the lamda sensor signal spray brake cleaner on the manifold and see if the signal alters.If it does replace the manifold as applying sealant doesn't cure it.
Injection balance should be set with the left cylinder just opening a fraction before the right as the ecu uses the left cylinder for sensing throttle position. Also make sure your software's up to date.
If you talk to Geoff at Hilltop he will tell you that BMW's are prone to "pooling" around the injector nozzles on a closed throttle which can build up a pool of fuel between the lip of the manifold and the cast part of the cylinder head. When you brake this can slop into the cylinder and flood the spark plug. A couple of the early F650GS bikes had a similar fault.
 
Mentioned this intermittent fault to Cannon who could not find anything wrong with their diagnostic check.

Took the bike to Reids in Chelmsford for the MoT and a new front tyre on Saturday and he reckoned it was the coil pack on the left side cylinder. It gets corroded when moisture runs into it when on the side stand. Replacement coil pack is about £80.
 
RT 1200 STALLING PROBLEM

I have RT1200 06 plate 30k on the clock with stalling issues similar to problems stated by other tossers.
Ie slowing down after a sustained period of fast running .
Im not sure where to start battery,lamdas,ecu,ect .
I think it seems to be a mapping fault which is cured by resetting ie restarting.
I am worried cos i have a long trip planned!
Has anyone had any success at dealers with this fault.
Cheers
Martin
 
Mentioned this intermittent fault to Cannon who could not find anything wrong with their diagnostic check.

Took the bike to Reids in Chelmsford for the MoT and a new front tyre on Saturday and he reckoned it was the coil pack on the left side cylinder. It gets corroded when moisture runs into it when on the side stand. Replacement coil pack is about £80.

I've heard this before. I can't believe leaving it on the side stand would cause this problem? I use my bike everyday and leave it on the side stand during the day and on centre stand at night. Surely the engine can't be this fragile?

I've run the bike for two weeks without a problem. The other day I used 95RON petrol instead of the superplus I've been using and the fault occured again a day later. Could this be the cause?? I'm going to finish this tank, replace with 98RON and come back.
 
I've heard this before. I can't believe leaving it on the side stand would cause this problem? I use my bike everyday and leave it on the side stand during the day and on centre stand at night. Surely the engine can't be this fragile?

I've run the bike for two weeks without a problem. The other day I used 95RON petrol instead of the superplus I've been using and the fault occured again a day later. Could this be the cause?? I'm going to finish this tank, replace with 98RON and come back.

After much messing around with different configurations I can now make my bike stall at will when slowing down or blipping the throttle at slow speed. All I have to do is take the baffle out of the Akro and it will exhibit the problem. Put the baffle in and it never stalls. I have other bits fitted such as Remus headers, K&N filter and Power Controller, but simply by removing the baffle I can create the problem. This might not be relevant to any other bike but to me and for my bike I think this tends to make it a fueling and/or back pressure issue. Can't see how coil packs or any other type of actual failure can be the cause in my case because I can make it happen and disappear by means of the exhaust baffle.
 
Fitting an Accelerator Module module may well cure this slow speed stalling issue.
It certainly cured mine, appears some bikes are set far too lean.
 
ENGINE CUTTING OUT

cured mine i sold it!so some other poor sod has it now it was a pain in the backend nobody knew how to fix it
 
Fitting an Accelerator Module module may well cure this slow speed stalling issue.
It certainly cured mine, appears some bikes are set far too lean.

OK Harry, thanks.
I just can't believe that BMW make an engine so fickle, some work, some don't. Surely they should HAVE to fix it? I'm just going to keep giving it back to them until it's done?:confused:
 
After much messing around with different configurations I can now make my bike stall at will when slowing down or blipping the throttle at slow speed. All I have to do is take the baffle out of the Akro and it will exhibit the problem. Put the baffle in and it never stalls. I have other bits fitted such as Remus headers, K&N filter and Power Controller, but simply by removing the baffle I can create the problem. This might not be relevant to any other bike but to me and for my bike I think this tends to make it a fueling and/or back pressure issue. Can't see how coil packs or any other type of actual failure can be the cause in my case because I can make it happen and disappear by means of the exhaust baffle.

Does sound as though your bike is rather out-there-on-its-own, Beemerman?
I've heard a power commander could help me also but I can't afford to just shell out on options that MAY work?

I asked a random guy on a GS Adventure identical to mine last night, what petrol he used? After looking very defensive towards me (understandable I suppose!), he replied "Any petrol, works fine on 95"?? So maybe it's not a petrol issue?
 
Mentioned this intermittent fault to Cannon who could not find anything wrong with their diagnostic check.

Took the bike to Reids in Chelmsford for the MoT and a new front tyre on Saturday and he reckoned it was the coil pack on the left side cylinder. It gets corroded when moisture runs into it when on the side stand. Replacement coil pack is about £80.

OH yeah, Let us know if this persists now ChasMill??
 
Does sound as though your bike is rather out-there-on-its-own, Beemerman?
I've heard a power commander could help me also but I can't afford to just shell out on options that MAY work?

I asked a random guy on a GS Adventure identical to mine last night, what petrol he used? After looking very defensive towards me (understandable I suppose!), he replied "Any petrol, works fine on 95"?? So maybe it's not a petrol issue?

Mine would stall occasionally, usually downshifting 3rd to 2nd with the following combinations:

Std headers/std can/std air filter/std plugs
Std headers/Akro can/std air filter/std plugs
Remus headers/Akro can/std air filter/std plugs
Remus headers/Akro can/std air filter/std plugs/accellerator module
Remus headers/Akro can (baffle out)/K&N filter/Iridium plugs/Power controller

What has resulted in absolutely zero stalls is that last combination but with the baffle in. This information might of course be completely co-incidental and not apply to any other bike but I would say that the stalling symptoms are identical to everyone elses whatever the cause. 95 or higher RON fuel made no difference.Yes it was a very expensive exercise but for me it was do it or sell the bike. I loved the bike in all other respects so for me it was worth it and I have not had a stall now for over a year. If I was going down this route now I would probably go for the remapp from Hillside and forget the power controller as I'm convinced its down to lean fueling issues and tolerances that vary from one machine to another. Mine has been to the dealers in the past with this issue - again no diagnosis/no fault found.
 
Mine would stall occasionally, usually downshifting 3rd to 2nd with the following combinations:

Std headers/std can/std air filter/std plugs
Std headers/Akro can/std air filter/std plugs
Remus headers/Akro can/std air filter/std plugs
Remus headers/Akro can/std air filter/std plugs/accellerator module
Remus headers/Akro can (baffle out)/K&N filter/Iridium plugs/Power controller

What has resulted in absolutely zero stalls is that last combination but with the baffle in. This information might of course be completely co-incidental and not apply to any other bike but I would say that the stalling symptoms are identical to everyone elses whatever the cause. 95 or higher RON fuel made no difference.Yes it was a very expensive exercise but for me it was do it or sell the bike. I loved the bike in all other respects so for me it was worth it and I have not had a stall now for over a year. If I was going down this route now I would probably go for the remapp from Hillside and forget the power controller as I'm convinced its down to lean fueling issues and tolerances that vary from one machine to another. Mine has been to the dealers in the past with this issue - again no diagnosis/no fault found.

Ok thanks. This info is really helpful. Can you tell me more about the remap from Hillside. Where would I go to get this? Is it expensive? Does it improve the fueling?
Ta
 
Ok. Just spoke to Jeff at Hillside, really nice knowledgeable and helpful guy. He says that the re-map is £360 and he's the only person that can do it? Is he really the only one? Does anyone know of another place that can do this?

Just spoke to BMW Cooper Tunbridge Wells who have just admitted that they have a 10 plate 1200 GS in at the moment with exactly the same problem. It's been in 3 times before this and only now the problem has registered on their computer as a fault code! AND it's coming up as the bottom stick coils....???????
It's booked in for a couple of weeks time so I'll just have top wait and see?
 
I had very similar with my '08 GSA MU, would die whilst working through the Blackwall tunnel traffic....
One day I had a Lambda sensor heater fault reported by my GS-911. I replaced with one of the NTK sensors available on E-Bay ( it is the same sensor as OEM), and the problem virtually went away. MPG was also dramatically improved.

Now that I have got rocker arm end-float and the valve clearances set exactly ( I think dealers set them to "within tolerances"), and the throttle balanced as near perfect as I can get them, it has gone completely; all bar an occasional "cough"...

My 09 GSA did the same and yep changed both lambda runs sweet ..
Just got 2 for the hp

Check if the sensors r a bit white if so change them ..
:D
 
My 09 GSA did the same and yep changed both lambda runs sweet ..
Just got 2 for the hp

Check if the sensors r a bit white if so change them ..
:D

Thanks rudiemoto
I'll put this to BMW as well when it goes in for the 2nd time at the end of the month!:thumb2
 
Just to let you all know, I got my bike back from Cooper BMW after having a service with all filters replaced but with an ECU upgrade. The service technician says that having done this upgrade on the last four bikes that have come in with the same problem, none of them have come back with the problem so far.

I rode my bike back from BMW and have yet to ride it to work but the difference is unbelievable. I put the bike in 5th gear and slowed down to 25 mph. It pulled away perfectly without any kind of protest. It's just completely different. I think this may be the one that works!

Keep ya posted...
 
Been on it for two weeks now and as of yet no problem...oh the relief!
 
Hi all, I've just bought a 08 GSA (yesterday) my first BMW bike, and really enjoyed my first ride.

The only problem I experienced was just as I was downshifting before pulling onto my drive, I think from 3-2, she cut out. I dropped it back into 1st and hit the button and it fired up straight away, I nipped it round the block just to make sure it was ok but I had no other problems.

I've read through all the comments and there are lots of things suggested and my problem seems like the common one.

To be honest I'm a little lost on what to do next, I think I'll just ride it a few more times and look out for it before spending any money but was quite interested in the factory BMW re-flash comments whether this was to address this specific issue and if the dealer could read any fault codes related?

Leeky.
 


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