R1200RT clutch

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I bought a 2010 R1200RT from here in November it’s perfect for a winter bike. It’s just had new front spindle, bearings, seals and pads to get it MOTd. It’s done 60,000 miles and the last few rides I’ve had a niggliing suspicion the clutch is slipping, barely but it’s not 100%. Yesterday two up during an overtake I there was a distinct engine volume change mid way.

It seems that a clutch change is quite a big job and I’m wondering if I should p/x the bike or get it done.

Anyone had a clutch change done and have a reasonable idea of cost ?

Should it be done at a BMW dealer or is an independent good enough?

Thanks
 
I guess it's a Twin Cam? If so, could be clutch wear or oil contamination - rear seals weeping (main seal and/or balancer shaft). I would give Charlie (ex CW) a call (best indy down our way.....):

 
Don't know about 1200 but similar symptoms show with rear drive shaft slipping on 1100/1150.
Others on here will have more knowledge but apparently it is a 2 piece shaft which has a bonding between each sections . Apparently this can degrade and cause both sections to slip independently . You can apparently check for slippage by marking both sides of the shaft in line and thereafter checking for movement thereon after use. Plenty of advise on the forum and much much cheaper than a new clutch
 
Your symptoms are 100% the sign of a slipping clutch. If you're bike doesn't have high miles then it's likely a weeping oil seal from your engine contaminating the dry plate.

Main dealer !! They will charge you about £2500- £3000. That's my experience.
And they probably won't be interested as their techs are most likely young lads who will have never seen a dry clutch. And if they take the job, there is a high chance you're going to pay a lot of money for someone to be doing this job for the first time. It all depends on the relationship you have with your main dealer and if they have any older techs experienced on these older models.

An independent will charge about £1200-£1400. That would be my quote. It can be done cheaper if corners are cut but I don't recommend that. There are a few people who can do this job on this forum. I'm in NW England. Steptoe down south. Anyone else ?

You're much better off with an independent on this job. You're likely to get a guy who has done this job many times and knows to change engine seals and how to set the seals and balance the clutch and flywheel. And obviously they will be much cheaper.

Should you just sell the bike ??

If you're honest with your sale, it's unlikely to sell well.

If you do the work you'll have an excellent bike. With a new clutch and engine seal. Good for 100,000 miles.

When I do that job I pull the whole back end apart for cleaning and greasing. I would hope anyone else would too.
 
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The clutch is essentially no different from that on earlier oilheads. It will have hydraulic actuation of course as opposed to the earlier cable. I changed the clutch on my R1100RT years ago and managed OK. If I can do it ...

You'll need plenty of space around (and above) the bike. Just take your time and do it methodically, taking lots of pics as you go along as reminders. Reassembly is the same in reverse.

This may be helpful ... https://www.ukgser.com/community/th...s-tips-for-a-first-timer.285404/#post-4044545
 
There’s a very slim chance that it might just be the slave cylinder leaking. And if you’re really lucky, none of the oil got into the clutch.

DenzO on here can sell you a replacement seal for the clutch slave - much cheaper than a replacement unit. And you can replace it without tearing the bike apart, so that might be worth a try first?

It worked for me on my 1200 TC GSA.
 
I'm currently changing the clutch on my recently bought 1150GSA, it 'didn't feel right' riding it back from London last week when I bought it privately. It's a lot of work just getting to the clutch plate, as the whole rear end virtually has to be dismantled, but a good opportunity to check out the rest of the drive, lubricate splines etc. No oil/fluid contamination on my clutch, but the friction plate is virtually down to the rivets. Will check out Denzo for a replacement slave cylinder seal as a precaution, so thanks for that info Nin :)
 
The clutch is essentially no different from that on earlier oilheads. It will have hydraulic actuation of course as opposed to the earlier cable. I changed the clutch on my R1100RT years ago and managed OK. If I can do it ...

You'll need plenty of space around (and above) the bike. Just take your time and do it methodically, taking lots of pics as you go along as reminders. Reassembly is the same in reverse.

This may be helpful ... https://www.ukgser.com/community/th...s-tips-for-a-first-timer.285404/#post-4044545

Replacing the clutch on a 1200 is a completey different job compared to a 1100/1150.
On a 1200 the swingarm comes off attached to the rear subframe, the bike has to be literally split in half, the gearbox remains attached to the rest of the bike/engine. Which you then remove to access the clutch. The centre stand is attached to the rear subframe.so the rest of the bike has to be supported.

In an 1100/1150 the rear subframe hinges towards, and the gearbox/swingarm/final drive can be removed as one piece. The centre stand is attached to the engine so still supports the bike. .

A 1200 clutch change with the rear of the bike separated from the rest of the bike,

IMG_4797.jpeg

IMG_4798.jpeg
 
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Big difference, didn't realise that! Thanks for explaining, I take it the clutch slave arrangement is different too?
 
Big difference, didn't realise that! Thanks for explaining, I take it the clutch slave arrangement is different too?

The 1200 clutch slave cylinder is far easier to access and only has two bolts holding it in place, plus the swingarm isn’t in the way.
You can see the clutch pushrod sticking out of the gearbox in this picture, the slave cylinder bolts into place over the pushrod, you can see the two slave cylinder bolt holes

IMG_4799.jpeg

IMG_4799.jpeg
 
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New clutch slave cylinder is £126. New seal is about £12.00
So is the seal something DenzO needs to fit to the slave cylinder, or is it a self job? I'm away in S.America at the moment so not in a position to have a closer look at mine.
 
a word of warning if visiting Steptoe ,
call first to make sure he isn't doing a clutch that day … i've been roped into helping put the back end , back onto a bike TWICE ! yer get a cup of tea tho' :D
 
There’s a very slim chance that it might just be the slave cylinder leaking. And if you’re really lucky, none of the oil got into the clutch.

DenzO on here can sell you a replacement seal for the clutch slave - much cheaper than a replacement unit. And you can replace it without tearing the bike apart, so that might be worth a try first?

It worked for me on my 1200 TC GSA.

I leaking slave doesn't make it slip. It does the opposite. You can't change gear.
 
The clutch fluid is good and it charges gear. I will try the former CW lads and Vince, who just repaired the front end.

@casbar I remember Charlie & Liam, there is also Darren Studley who setup in Dorchester.

Thanks for all the replies, I’m hoping it will hang on until the weather has improved and I start riding the Ducati.
 


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