R65GS, More electrical problems...

Vincent

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Hi,
Second electric probs thread... a bit all over the place at the mo...
The first one was about the "idiot lights"... can't work out what's going on. but got more issues now. I've restored the bike and fitted a new loom. This is how it is connected to the ignition switch (based on pics from other airheads and what I could work out from the wiring diagram):

New Image 3.JPG

This is what happen when I turn the key:
1st turn (parking): front/rear parking lights on, speedometer light on. (good so far)
2nd turn(on): no more rear/parking/speedometer lights.front light on. No break light. Full beam flick switch lights up instrument board(!?) + indicators and brakes lights when activated
3rd turn(on+lights): same as second turn + rear light on
4th turn(on+full beam): front/rear lights on, instruments board… everything working as normal….

Now, the starter motor is not rotating (refurbished Valeo from motorworks just fitted). The bike worked great for 2 days. I lent the bike to a mate for a test drive, he stalled round the corner and it would not start. Just a pronounced "click" from the starter motor.
I've changed the fuses. Battery's voltage is 12.45v. could it be something to do with the relays or a faulty ignition switch?
I will post pictures of all the electrical connections I can reach to see if anybody can spot where I could have gone wrong...
In the meantime, would anybody know what could be going on and what I should do/check?
Many thanks
Cheers
Vince
 
Just as a double-check (apologies if you've done this), the Haynes manual wiring diagram has little numbers next to each connection for the ignition switch. These numbers are also next to each connection on the switch itself (I think I can just about see one on your pic). Might be worth a quick look.
 
Thanks Bakerlonglegs,
It's a mystery how the bike actually started and worked for a while. I rushed it a bit when I put the loom on and didn't go logically about it. I was wondering what these numbers were ... I reconnected the ignition switch according to the diagram and numbers and it worked fine, diode board lighting up as it it should on each key turn. Now the starter still didn't rotate so I took off the wire from the diode board to the generater, checked it for breaks and reconnected it according to the letters as it was not color coded. The bike fired up!! There are no letters on the diode board and the three pins are only discribed as 1-2-3 in the haynes manual. So I connected it as followed: U-1, V-2, W-3

P1020964.JPG

Does it sound alright to you?
Thanks very much, still learning from my many blunders...:blast
I'll be back
Cheers
Vince
 
Thanks Bakerlonglegs,
It's a mystery how the bike actually started and worked for a while. I rushed it a bit when I put the loom on and didn't go logically about it. I was wondering what these numbers were ... I reconnected the ignition switch according to the diagram and numbers and it worked fine, diode board lighting up as it it should on each key turn. Now the starter still didn't rotate so I took off the wire from the diode board to the generater, checked it for breaks and reconnected it according to the letters as it was not color coded. The bike fired up!! There are no letters on the diode board and the three pins are only discribed as 1-2-3 in the haynes manual. So I connected it as followed: U-1, V-2, W-3

View attachment 170512

Does it sound alright to you?
Thanks very much, still learning from my many blunders...:blast
I'll be back
Cheers
Vince

Without pulling mine apart to compare I can't be sure, but looking at your photograph of the diode board and judging by the shape of the wires I would guess that the red & green may be the wrong way round. This is based on nothing more than the red having a kink in it and the green looking like it's at full stretch. I may well be completely wrong, check it out first before swapping wires around.
 
I know its really simple but.... if your battery is fully charged and you think its ok, but pressing the starter the bike sort of ticks then goes dead for a few seconds.. i had this .. looked for ages .. and in the end it was just the earth lead back to the battery .. 2minute fix.
 
Seems to work fine... brassmonkey001, I kind of pulled on the cables so all connections were visible in the picture. That was not how their were initially connected hence the kinks on some of them. Do these cables have specific properties according to their color? I reckon that as long as the the diode board and the generater are connected correctly, which cable is used doesn't really matter, no? I might be wrong again, so if I am, please let me know.
Cheers
Vince
 
That was not how their were initially connected hence the kinks on some of them. Do these cables have specific properties according to their color? I reckon that as long as the the diode board and the generater are connected correctly, which cable is used doesn't really matter, no? I might be wrong again, so if I am, please let me know.
Cheers
Vince

Hi Vince ... it makes no difference how you connect those wires - they're all the same. Incidentally, all my wires are white !
 


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