R80g/s - Oil question... (& mileage pic!)

[Archie's dad]

Evening Gents, just seen the service receipt for my bike from 3 years ago (ridden back to previous owners garage and ain't turned a wheel since) shows that it was filled with 10/40 oil which I think is the wrong viscosity for the bike? Also, upon dipping the oil it's about 1/4 inch above the max line on the dipstick.

1/ is 10/40 acceptable, if not, what oil should I use?

2/ should I change it cos it's 3 yrs old?

3/ should I change it cos it's over the 'max'?

I've included the pic of the mileage because I've done a bit of detective work and spoken to the keeper before the previous, he's confirmed that the mileage is genuine and that the bike had been in his family for donkeys years, this is backed up by the MOT's back to early 90's. The bikes frame number makes it a 1980 build, registered in 81. Bit chuffed about the mileage tbh, anyone know of one with less for the year??

 

[ChasF]

I would change it because it's 3 years old for a good quality 20W50 mineral oil. Fill very slowly to themax mark on the dipstick then run the engine. Once the level has settled (30 mins) top up to half way between min and max.

PS. This is what I do, others may do it differently.

 

[Archie's dad]

I would change it because it's 3 years old for a good quality 20W50 mineral oil. Fill very slowly to themax mark on the dipstick then run the engine. Once the level has settled (30 mins) top up to half way between min and max.

PS. This is what I do, others may do it differently.

Thanks, would Halfords 20w50 classic oil do?

 

[ianboydsnr]

I would use a classic 20w50, and change the gearbox and bevel drive oils,

It's an early one, has it got the thin rear wheel, and the needle bearing rear drive, that has 2orings separating the oil from the shoes?

I have an early one as well with those very same things, I am currently doing a little refurb and upgrading work, softer rear shoe linings, because the hard originals wear out the drum, a slightly extended and enlargened rear brake lever, a tube through the rear drive to seal it, and some kind of front brake upgrade, using a Kawasaki ZX7r 320mm front disc, with a later four piston calliper

 

[Florence]

Any old tractor oil will do thicker the better
Over the dipstick......you haven't screwed it in to dip it have you? That might be the 1/4 inch?

 

[Archie's dad]

I would use a classic 20w50, and change the gearbox and bevel drive oils,

It's an early one, has it got the thin rear wheel, and the needle bearing rear drive, that has 2orings separating the oil from the shoes?

I have an early one as well with those very same things, I am currently doing a little refurb and upgrading work, softer rear shoe linings, because the hard originals wear out the drum, a slightly extended and enlargened rear brake lever, a tube through the rear drive to seal it, and some kind of front brake upgrade, using a Kawasaki ZX7r 320mm front disc, with a later four piston calliper

Wow... far too technical for my limited mechanical knowledge!! Does this pic answer the question??

 

[Archie's dad]

Any old tractor oil will do thicker the better
Over the dipstick......you haven't screwed it in to dip it have you? That might be the 1/4 inch?[/QUOTE

1/4" when resting on top, 1/2" when screwed in.

 

[ianboydsnr]

Wow... far too technical for my limited mechanical knowledge!! Does this pic answer the question??

Er no

It does tell me that it is missing the 3 hugely expensive bungs that go in the rear wheel

If you are on Advrider there is a post on the rear bevel here

http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...y-rear-break-pivot-axle.693303/#post-31349839

 

[Steve R]

Lovely looking bike. Are you finishing it off with the proper decals?

They're designed to run on 20/50 but modern oils are so much better than oil was when our airheads were made. I've got 10/40 semi-synthetic in mine because I think the starter struggles to turn it over. I've got a Siebenrock development engine in mine, with their 1,000cc conversion, big valve heads and possibly a hot cam. It seems to have high compression so I reckoned thinner oil would help it turn over. No problems so far.

I've got a bigger disc on the front with a bracket to relocate the standard caliber. It says HE on it. This is a definite improvement on the original. A stainless steel hose and decent pads will all transform it. If you've got any kind of off-road tyre on it this is enough braking to lock the front.

When it was rebuilt I fitted a zeroed speedo so the mileage (kilometerage?) looks good.

Steve

 

[JJH]

I cannot answer about the grade of oil I'd be happy with it myself. Oil does not go off when not used so why change it? Its a bit high on the stick because its been lying 3 years and has all collected in the sump. Maby a bit of condension which will evorapiate off when the oil heats up. JJH

 

[Beemerboff]

The water will be at the bottom of the sump, so the first few revs of the big ends will be running on water
No big deal, new shells are easy to fit and you can fit new push rod seals nd perhaps rings at the same time.
Use proper Synthetic MA grade motorcycle oil, the BIg Twin 20/50 s are designed for the higher temps found in air cooled motors.
If your OEM Bosch starter is getting tired the 50 quid Valeo knock offs work fine and will spin it much faster and is a better solution than using the wrong oil.
The needle roller final drives have a detachable cap on the drive side- it is Loctited in and is not meant to be removed.
OEM spec on the bearing end float is up to 2 thou, so there will be a little shake at the rim - later taper roller bearing drives dont have the cap and should be preloaded 2mm, with little shake at the rim.
Going by some of the earlier posts the next post will probably tell you the screw horse shoes to the rim instead of using tires, but you will probably find tires work a little better - Dunlop D604s are good and relatively cheap, Metzler Enduro 3 Sahara slightly better but in Oz a lot more expensive. Both have all the grip on Bitumen and the 3s probably have more grip than you will need off.
I would junk the old tires - life is too short to run around on old hard rubber waiting for them to blow----------.
Any other questions dont be afraid to ask!

 

[Posh Pete]

This oil will do the trick http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Unipart-2...440282?hash=item4af7691a5a:g:4Z4AAOSwknJX0Wea

 

[dr nosh]

Er no

It does tell me that it is missing the 3 hugely expensive bungs that go in the rear wheel

If you are on Advrider there is a post on the rear bevel here

http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...y-rear-break-pivot-axle.693303/#post-31349839

Errr. Be VERY careful fitting the 3 expensive bungs in the hub. The peg that holds them breaks extremely easily. How do I know?

Put a little drop of silicone lubricant on the peg, then tap in gently with a 'toffee' hammer (1/4 pounder).

Not too much silicone though, the brake shoes are close by.

 

[Archie's dad]

Lovely looking bike. Are you finishing it off with the proper decals?



Steve

Yes, I've got the ones for the side panel but I'm getting the panel sprayed first together with a new front mudguard. I'm looking around for the tank decals, some geezer on eBay is advertising them for £45, bit steep in my opinion!

 

[markjackson]

I think mine were £23:40 each side, from motobins. Who also do the tank badges for a reasonable sum.

I think they come from Siebenrock.

I fitted them on a rather cold day and they didn't go on quite 100% perfect (with a tiny crease) where the top-rear corner makes a compound curve under the front of the seat, but I'm confident that this is operator error rather than any fault of the stickers. You have to look for the flaw to see it, so I'd happily buy the same again, albeit maybe wait for a warmer day/indoors to fit them.

 

[Steptoe]

Change the oil filter. After three years sitting in oil the paper and cardboard oil filter could turn to mush and collapse at any time

 

[Florence]

I think mine were £23:40 each side, from motobins. Who also do the tank badges for a reasonable sum.

I think they come from Siebenrock.

I fitted them on a rather cold day and they didn't go on quite 100% perfect (with a tiny crease) where the top-rear corner makes a compound curve under the front of the seat, but I'm confident that this is operator error rather than any fault of the stickers. You have to look for the flaw to see it, so I'd happily buy the same again, albeit maybe wait for a warmer day/indoors to fit them.

That looks really good now Mark, what a transformation mate. You must be very happy with it but are you missing the Kalahari or more importantly the extra tank size

 

[Archie's dad]

Mark, that is one good looking bike. I'd be interested to know what restoration it's had. Looks the dogs do dah's!!

 

[Archie's dad]

Thanks, yeah makes sense. Oil might be ok but filter could be knackered.

 

[markjackson]

That looks really good now Mark, what a transformation mate. You must be very happy with it but are you missing the Kalahari or more importantly the extra tank size

The Kalahari's still in the family, just a bit nearer the coast; I think of it as my Scarborough bike.

I no longer worry about 32 litres not being enough fuel to get me from York to Malton, as some kind soul always turns up to rescue me!

Fuelish behaviour by mark jackson, on Flickr