R80RT auxiliary gauges

MikeO

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OK - next up :D

The clock and voltmeter fittd to my 1983 R80RT are perfectly serviceable...

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...but a little scruffy...

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The glass is OK - just needs a good clean - and the bezels are straight but, as you can see, are missing large areas of paint.

I understand it's possible (but a real pain) to remove and replace the bezels. Had anyone had success in masking the glass and painting them in place? If I could do this I think I'd prepare with wire wool and then use a rattle can of Hammerite satin black.

I'm not sure how I'd get the masking accurate enough...

Once again, any ideas and advice appreciated...

Cheers,

Mike :cool:
 
When my mates doing touch up/small stuff, he sprays some in the inside of the hammerite can lid, dips in a cotton bud & uses that........seems to get good results

Let us know how you get on :D
 
I'm not sure how I'd get the masking accurate enough...
Mike,

Just tape over the glass, press the masking tape into the joint between the bezel and the glass face, then use a new blade in a craft knife or similar, held at 45 deg to the glass face and run the blade around the inside edge of the bezel, peel away the masking tape from the bezel.

Even if you do manage to get some paint onto the glass, it will scrape away with a knife-blade very easily once it has hardened.
 
Went shopping this morning...

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OK - who's first?

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Going in alphabetical order, I start with the clock. I give the steel wool a try, to see if the paint will come off easily...

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...but it'll take a lot of effort to get all the black off both bezels using this method, so I pour a little Nitromors into the cap...

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...and, using a cotton bud, spread it over both instrument bezels. In no time at all, I get results...

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The paint residue can now be removed with kitchen towel.. I package all the stuff that has touched the paint stripper into a plastic bag and take it down to the dustbin. It's worth bearing in mind that Nitromors & the residue stays active - DAMHIK... :D

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The bezels are now both clear of paint. I give them both a good rub down with steel wool...

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...to make sure the primer has a good surfce to key onto...

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...before washing everything off with meths...

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I then start masking up...

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I've bought this Frog tape as it is meant to minimise any bleed through at the edge - important when I'm trying to get a precise bit of masking done...

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I tape over the dial faces, pushing the tape hard into the edge of the bezel using the blunt end of a craft knife...

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...and then carefully run a craft knife (with a new blade) along the edge of the glass.

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I re-did this a couple of times before I was happy that I was getting a decent line...

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...then pressed the tape back into the edges...

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I make sure everything else is masked off before taking the gauges to my custom built spray booth (a cardboard box on top of my wheelie-bin)...

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Working out how to align them was tricky. I decide I'll have to give them three coats from three different directions to cover properly...

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I start off with a couple of coats of Rustoleum primer, which is very quick drying...

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...before starting the top coat - Rustoleum Satin Black (Homebase didn't stock Hammerite, which would have been my first choice, but this stuff seems to be behaving in a similar manner).

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I give them the planned three coats, with about 20-30 minutes in between coats...

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...then bring them in to cure. After an hour I remove the tape from the back of the gauges...

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Then, using a craft knife to lift the edge of the tape, and a pair of tweezers to pull it off, remove the masking from the face...

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The voltmeter has quite an amount of bleed through on the edge. Bugger. I decide to leave it to harden for a few days and then scrape the paint off with a craft knife. The clock is just about perfect. I drop them into my (new) dashboard to see what they'll look like fitted...

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That'll do...:)

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I pull the instruments part way out and leave them in the panel - it'll be a perfect place for them to cure.

Come to think of it, I should have used my old panel to hold them whilst I was spraying - it would have made life a lot simpler...:blast

Many thanks to Wirespokes on ADVrider and MikeP here for their advice on how to tackle this job... :thumb2

Mike :cool:
 
Good job! :thumb2

(although I do like them at the 'stripped & wire wool' stage' too)
 
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Wire wool, then with fine brush use Humbrol satin black modellers paint
 


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