R80ST, Regulator Upgrade...

England-Kev

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As I live in the center of town, and the majority of my riding is at slower speeds (I don't do motorways if I can help it) I decided that to get the most from my alternator I would install a Police spec regulator, that switches to charge the battery at lower revs.
So I contacted the nice people at at Motorworks, and they sent me a nice new Reg to fit, and that was done this morning.

So after removing the tank,and the CDI assembly, I could get to the allen screws holding the old Reg in place and remove the old unit.

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Then it was just a simple matter of replacing the old with the new smaller Reg, as you can see.

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The new unit is much smaller than the old, but as it is a BMW part, all the holes line up to make fixing it in place a doddle.

p454472136.jpg


After that was all done, and as I had the tools out, I decided to check the valve clearances, they were all spot on, but I adjusted the inlets from 10 to 15, jst to see if it runs any better? we shall see. Then a nice new set of Bosch W7 plugs, replace tank, and it fired right up.
Once warmed up and off choke, I put the test meter across the battery, and sure enough the new Reg kicks in around 2000rpm giving 14.3v at the battery.:thumb2
 
That was the first change I made to mine when I got it. Well worth the minimal effort required to change it. Don't throw the old one away...!!!
 
Is there any benefit in using the STD VR?

Or is the plod version just better all round.
 
Paul, I never had a problem with the old unit, but it kicks in at around 4000rpm, the new smaller Police version, kicks in at around 2000rpm, for me living in town, and for the style of riding I do, it just makes sense. I have been meaning to do this for a couple of years, just never got around to it, but as I have just fitted the new battery, I thought It was time.:thumb2
 
Wish I'd known you were doing this kev I'd have swapped you my high output regulator for your standard one.

Anybody else want to swap my high output regulator for a shiny standard one?
 
I will swap with you Rob, if mine is a standard one. Will pop out to the garage to check when I get a few minutes.
 
Sorry Rob, it appears I have the high output type?:nenau







You can also see the state of the timing case!
 
Wish I'd known you were doing this kev I'd have swapped you my high output regulator for your standard one.

Anybody else want to swap my high output regulator for a shiny standard one?

Hi Rob.
I am interested in your reasoning. What advantage would be incurred in reverting back to standard regulator?
On a different note,although unknown to me i was saddened to hear about the loss of UKgser community members. My condolences to all those who have felt the pain of loss. Stash.
 
Paul, I never had a problem with the old unit, but it kicks in at around 4000rpm, the new smaller Police version, kicks in at around 2000rpm, for me living in town, and for the style of riding I do, it just makes sense. I have been meaning to do this for a couple of years, just never got around to it, but as I have just fitted the new battery, I thought It was time.:thumb2


Does this mean the oe reg won't start charging the battery till the revs reach 4000 rpm?

If that's the case I better have a look see which I have on ouw airheads. I've been pooteling about on me new chair and havent seen 4000 rpm except when I've missed a gear. Most of the time it's running at around 3000 rpm. Should I be concerned? Haven't had any starting issues yet though.


Val.
 
Standard Voltage regulator gets these readings

no lights on :-

Tickover = - 3 Amps
1500 RPM = + 5 Amps
3500 RPM = + 8 Amps

-3 is obviously drain from the battery.


With everything on (including two 60W) spot lamps I get this

Tickover = -17 Amps
1500 RPM = - 8.4 Amps
3500 = - 4.14 Amps
 
Standard Regulator

I have a standard regulator kicking about that I removed from my ST a couple of years ago.....can't see me using it again, so you're welcome to it if needed.

I think Steptoe mentioned the standard regulator can be opened and the output adjusted?

Jonathan
 
Standard Voltage regulator gets these readings

no lights on :-

Tickover = - 3 Amps
1500 RPM = + 5 Amps
3500 RPM = + 8 Amps

-3 is obviously drain from the battery.


With everything on (including two 60W) spot lamps I get this

Tickover = -17 Amps
1500 RPM = - 8.4 Amps
3500 = - 4.14 Amps

Where are you getting the amp measurements from Rob - near the alternator or at the battery
My multimeter clipped to battery measured 12.5v at up to 1500rpm then rising slowly to a max of 13.6v at 4000+ with the "standard reg" when I upgraded to a higher output reg I get now 13v at 1300 and risers to 14.3v at 3000rpm All I can say is with the standard reg and low revs = trailing or town pottering with lights on = flat battery no starter motor after an hour or so
Now I have on owt I fancy and gu anywhere all seems fine I wouldnt swap my higher do dah for a standard :thumb2
I was thinkin that the alternator creates what it can up to what's needed - if theres enough revs and 12v batteries only charge when there is more than 13v more coming to it
As you know shits my business so enlighten me please if I am wrong :rob
 
when I checked with BM, they said the red cap vr is the std one and the modded ones are black?..
The early alloy units can be reset if you know how to...
When my red cap failed I replaced it with a alloy one I had spare,= no problems.
 


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