Rapidly falling out of love with my R1250GS

Happened to me on a Job 850 Norton Interpol. A known fault with the layshaft bearing which our (knobhead) Workshop Manager said would only happen in 1st gear with hard acceleration and therefore wouldn’t authorise preventative replacement across the fleet.
Mine went in 2nd halfway around an S bend, it wound the kickstart backwards and locked up solid, pulling in the clutch did nothing. Luck and superlative skill (hah) kept me upright.. just.
Bastard!
 
I don’t suppose you live anywhere near Att?? He might’ve put some sugar in your final drive?! 🤣🤣
You cheeky bastard! He lives in a densely populated area, amongst people....There is an international directive, that prevents me from being able to do this. :D

No need to nobble a newer BMW product, the CAD does that for them. ;)
 
You cheeky bastard! He lives in a densely populated area, amongst people....There is an international directive, that prevents me from being able to do this. :D

No need to nobble a newer BMW product, the CAD does that for them. ;)
How’s the rain over there?
Assuming you’re high and dry??
 
I think the Kawasaki 4 cylinders GPZ etc in the eighties were known to lock up due to “carb icing” in low temps causing fuel starvation and lock up the back wheel.

My GPZ600R was recalled for a new set of carbs. Kentish Town Kawasaki
 
I’ve never heard of carb icing actually causing rear wheel lock up.

My old Yam Thurdercat 600 was a real bitch for it on damp/misty days just above freezing temperatures. It ran fine on the motorway home until I rolled off throttle on the slip road, then it would cough and splutter and reapplying throttle did nothing. Dangerous if filtering, as traffic pulled away all around you as you struggled to get going in the middle of the road.
 
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2022 R1250GS Triple Black with 12k km on it. I've owned it since the end of October and thought that this would be my ideal bike. Ho ho ho. Last November it spent a few weeks at the dealer with an ignition fault (coil pack, dealer was useless in diagnosing).

Today, it nearly killed me. I was bimbling along at 80kph when the back wheel suddenly locked, only my years of riding experience saved me. I pulled the clutch on but it made no difference. Scanned it with MotoScan and got "rear wheel speed sensor 480913" and "undertension 480860" fault codes. The TFT also said "ABS system fault". I opened the bleed ripple on the caliper to get rid of any pressure and gingerly made my way home. I am deeply disappointed. My last bike was a Harley (I know) but it never let me down. I'm pondering whether to stick the the GS or get shut, I really don't need the hassle.
If relieving the rear brake fluid pressure via the bleed nipple allowed the rear wheel to turn freely, it could well be due to the brake peddle being adjusted via the link rod. If there is no free-play in the pedal, any build up of heat in the system has nowhere to go, so it slowly applies the brake.
 
I’ve never heard of carb icing actually causing rear wheel lock up.

My old Yam Thurdercat 600 was a real bitch for it on damp/misty days just above freezing temperatures. It ran fine on the motorway home until I rolled off throttle on the slip road, then it would cough and splutter and reapplying throttle did nothing. Dangerous if filtering, as traffic fulled away all around you as you struggled to get going in the middle of the road.
My CR500 used to suffer with it when running flat out for extended periods in near freezing conditions. I had to put rad shields on it and duct warm air from the rads to the carb. It didn't cause the back wheel to lock up though......
 
OP, I know FA about the 1250 but based on diagnostic work on cars my suggestion would be that the speed sensor fault is causing the TC system to think the bike is is in a slide and is applying the brake to correct it (I had the same issue with a car).
Get it back to the dealer. The fault codes themselves do not necessarily diagnose the issue, just point you in the direction to look.
 
If relieving the rear brake fluid pressure via the bleed nipple allowed the rear wheel to turn freely, it could well be due to the brake peddle being adjusted via the link rod. If there is no free-play in the pedal, any build up of heat in the system has nowhere to go, so it slowly applies the brake.
Yeah, this is my (revised! 😂) thoughts. I had a similar experience on my Harley when I overfilled the rear reservoir. I use the rear brake a lot on the hog (almost like a car brake pedal?! lol) and it overheated! Didn’t lock though, but did fade and melt the pads.
Moral of the story is brake fluid expands when hot and will eventually press the pistons onto the caliper 🤔
 
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2022 R1250GS Triple Black with 12k km on it. I've owned it since the end of October and thought that this would be my ideal bike. Ho ho ho. Last November it spent a few weeks at the dealer with an ignition fault (coil pack, dealer was useless in diagnosing).

Today, it nearly killed me. I was bimbling along at 80kph when the back wheel suddenly locked, only my years of riding experience saved me. I pulled the clutch on but it made no difference. Scanned it with MotoScan and got "rear wheel speed sensor 480913" and "undertension 480860" fault codes. The TFT also said "ABS system fault". I opened the bleed ripple on the caliper to get rid of any pressure and gingerly made my way home. I am deeply disappointed. My last bike was a Harley (I know) but it never let me down. I'm pondering whether to stick the the GS or get shut, I really don't need the hassle.
A mate of mine has had two mystery lock-ups of the front brakes on his 2015 R1200RS, the brakes staying locked on after the bike had come to its sudden and unexpected halt. And like you, a little bit of brake fluid had to be released from a bleed nipple to free off the brakes and get him home. He bought the bike last year, privately, so is obviously a bit concerned, to say the least. It hasn't been put on a diagnostic computer yet.
I do hope you post up what the dealer finds if/when the bike goes for fixing, I'll certainly pass on any information to my mate.
 
A mate of mine has had two mystery lock-ups of the front brakes on his 2015 R1200RS, the brakes staying locked on after the bike had come to its sudden and unexpected halt. And like you, a little bit of brake fluid had to be released from a bleed nipple to free off the brakes and get him home. He bought the bike last year, privately, so is obviously a bit concerned, to say the least. It hasn't been put on a diagnostic computer yet.
I do hope you post up what the dealer finds if/when the bike goes for fixing, I'll certainly pass on any information to my mate.
Might be nothing more sinister than operator overfilling reservoir 🤔
Many do this over zealously (me! lol) to compensate for pad wear.
Probably job for CSI Portugal. 🤨
 
It happened to me on a K1200RS many years ago, I was overtaking a line of cars who all started sounding their horns, initially I wanted to tell them all to f@#$ off, but when I looked back I was on fire. Then the wheel locked up and I ground to a halt. One car stopped with an extinguisher and put out the fire. BMW recovery took the bike to a dealer and BMW graciously paid for a new back end. The brake was binding and caused the fire before locking up. Just prior to that I had the bike to a suspension specialist who made some adjustments and it really helped the handling, I told thm the story and one guy looked a bit sheepish, when pushed it transpired that he took it upon himself to 'adjust' the back brake!
 
I had the final drive pretty much explode on a 1200 15 or so years ago. Thankfully it didn’t lock up, just lost drive. Fortunate as I was in lane 2 leant over exiting a roundabout overtaking a truck at the time.
 
My CR500 used to suffer with it when running flat out for extended periods in near freezing conditions. I had to put rad shields on it and duct warm air from the rads to the carb. It didn't cause the back wheel to lock up though......
I seized my road legal KX500 motor crosser flying along the A47 towards Brundall. :blast
The mechanic told me it was because it ran too cold taking in too much constant cold air.
The rear wheel locked up leaving a blooming long black line along the dual carriageway. :D
 
My first GS was a 1250 (I’m only a youngster!), I then moved onto a 1250GSA. After 3 years of ownership of a 1250GSA, an 1150GSA came up for sale on here very local to me and I took the plunge.

Every time I walked into the garage the 1150 always drew me in. 3 months after buying the 1150 I sold the 1250 and the rest is history

I’ve had a few fuel related issues with the 1150, age related and covering 122k miles this is to be expected, but they’re so easy to work on compared to the modern bikes. No special tools or 7 hour software updates required.

The more I ride it the happier I am with my decision
:beerjug:
 
Likewise I was seduced into changing my single-cam Hexhead GSA for a 1250GSA yet I miss the simple build of my old bike and its ease of maintenance.

There was nothing on it I couldn’t fix, unlike the fucking Starship Enterprise I now ride that feels like it has less character.
 
I seized my road legal KX500 motor crosser flying along the A47 towards Brundall. :blast
The mechanic told me it was because it ran too cold taking in too much constant cold air.
The rear wheel locked up leaving a blooming long black line along the dual carriageway. :D
:ROFLMAO: Bum clencher????
I had about 5 different jets I would swap in the carb on the CR depending on the weather and what I was doing with it because your mechanic was bang on, in winter with a denser charge it needed a bigger jet. Over the years I've learned to embrace my inner nerd :D

I left a massive black line on the lane near my house when I got the CR. It had been delivered fully prepped with a new back tyre. I'd not ridden a 500 before and being about 9 stone wringing wet I was 'wary' about giving it the berries from a standing start. I went to the end of the lane, turned around pulled away in first, short shifted into second and pinned it, hand over the clutch waiting for the front to come up. It rev'd out and made a funny popping noise but hardly picked up any speed. I'm thinking the clutch is slipping. Back off, and turn around at the other end of the lane and do the same. Same result so back off again, thoroughly pissed off and about to get on the phone to the dealers to voice my frustration. As I role further down the lane I see a massive black line and bits of rubber all over the road. I jump off an realise in the space of about 3 minutes and 500 meters I've completely destroyed the brand new back tyre. It had torn all the knobs off the centre and was bald. I was in love:D
I love a 500 crosser, they are absolutely wild when they come on pipe. Mine was an absolute twat to kick off in winter though, the compression and kick back destroyed my boots. I'd really like another but can't justify £10K for one now.
 
I’ve never heard of carb icing actually causing rear wheel lock up.
I think it was a rare instance or was deemed to be possible when the carb icing would cause a stall condition like running out of petrol and if the road conditions had poor grip then the back wheel could skid.

I would have got the info from MCN at the time, it was considered a safety issue and prompted complete replacement of all four carbs across the range of Kawasaki bikes.
 
:ROFLMAO: Bum clencher????
I had about 5 different jets I would swap in the carb on the CR depending on the weather and what I was doing with it because your mechanic was bang on, in winter with a denser charge it needed a bigger jet. Over the years I've learned to embrace my inner nerd :D

I left a massive black line on the lane near my house when I got the CR. It had been delivered fully prepped with a new back tyre. I'd not ridden a 500 before and being about 9 stone wringing wet I was 'wary' about giving it the berries from a standing start. I went to the end of the lane, turned around pulled away in first, short shifted into second and pinned it, hand over the clutch waiting for the front to come up. It rev'd out and made a funny popping noise but hardly picked up any speed. I'm thinking the clutch is slipping. Back off, and turn around at the other end of the lane and do the same. Same result so back off again, thoroughly pissed off and about to get on the phone to the dealers to voice my frustration. As I role further down the lane I see a massive black line and bits of rubber all over the road. I jump off an realise in the space of about 3 minutes and 500 meters I've completely destroyed the brand new back tyre. It had torn all the knobs off the centre and was bald. I was in love:D
I love a 500 crosser, they are absolutely wild when they come on pipe. Mine was an absolute twat to kick off in winter though, the compression and kick back destroyed my boots. I'd really like another but can't justify £10K for one now.
Yeah, that was half the fun when cracking the throttle open! You never knew if it was going to wheelspin or lift the front wheel skywards!
My ex wife’s brother took it out once. He’d had big bikes all his life but came back after 10 minutes white as a ghost! :D He said he’d never ridden anything so wild and unpredictable. :thumb2 He never went on it again.
I miss that bike.
 


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