Rear brake pedal adjustment

[FENNER]

Hi all

Is it possible to adjust the height of the rear brake pedal in relation to the foot peg on the GS1200 ? I find that I have to tip my foot a long way forwards before I even connect with the pedal and then by the time I push it down to use the brake it's really uncomfortable to the point that I find it hard to use the rear brake effectively. It's a non abs model so not linked to the front, and nothing looks bent ?

Thanks Tony

 

[littleredrooster]

Yes - if you look behind the brake pedal assembly, you will see an adjustable-length rod. Undo the locknut and adjust to your preference and tighten the locknut.

 

[FENNER]

Yes - if you look behind the brake pedal assembly, you will see an adjustable-length rod. Undo the locknut and adjust to your preference and tighten the locknut.

Thanks for that I'll have a look later.

 

[EggChaser]

I found that the Wunderlich Brake Pedal Enlarger was a good option for this sort of problem as well.

 

[The Grey One]

Yes - if you look behind the brake pedal assembly, you will see an adjustable-length rod. Undo the locknut and adjust to your preference and tighten the locknut.

Don't forget to allow a bit of free play though. Free play is needed to allow for heat expansion. When I first got here I had to have the local BMW dealer do the MOT test equivalent. I found out the hard way that they had removed all the free play. When the rear brake got warm (happens a lot around here!) the bloody thing locked on. The brakes had got so hot that the heat had melted a hole in the final drive gaiter. Needless to say the dealer denied any responsibility despite the evidence of shiny thread showing on the adjuster.

John

 

[FENNER]

Don't forget to allow a bit of free play though. Free play is needed to allow for heat expansion. When I first got here I had to have the local BMW dealer do the MOT test equivalent. I found out the hard way that they had removed all the free play. When the rear brake got warm (happens a lot around here!) the bloody thing locked on. The brakes had got so hot that the heat had melted a hole in the final drive gaiter. Needless to say the dealer denied any responsibility despite the evidence of shiny thread showing on the adjuster.

John

Thanks for that John, I take it you mean that the pedal needs to still have a reasonable amount of movement before the brake bites ?

Tony

 

[The Grey One]

Thanks for that John, I take it you mean that the pedal needs to still have a reasonable amount of movement before the brake bites ?

Tony

The pedal should have some movement before it starts to move the piston not just before the brakes bite otherwise when things heat up you could find your rear brake is on all the time.

John

 

[FENNER]

I'm a bit confused here, (may just be me being thick !) the adjuster at the back of the pedal assembly adjusts the point at which the master cylinder operates and applies the brake, is that correct ?

I'm actually looking to get the pedal to sit higher in the rest position so that I don't have to tip my foot as far forward before my foot actually touches the pedal and consequently operate the brake, not just alter the "bite" point.

Confused.com

Tony

 

[littleredrooster]

I'm a bit confused here, (may just be me being thick !) the adjuster at the back of the pedal assembly adjusts the point at which the master cylinder operates and applies the brake, is that correct ?

I'm actually looking to get the pedal to sit higher in the rest position so that I don't have to tip my foot as far forward before my foot actually touches the pedal and consequently operate the brake, not just alter the "bite" point.

Confused.com

Tony

It's one and the same thing, surely? Adjust the rod, pedal moves closer to foot 'cos cylinder cannot move...or is there a dead-stop which needs adjusting too - I cannot see mine as the bike is parked the wrong way around in the garage and it's pissing down.

 

[richtel]

It's one and the same thing, surely? Adjust the rod, pedal moves closer to foot 'cos cylinder cannot move...or is there a dead-stop which needs adjusting too - I cannot see mine as the bike is parked the wrong way around in the garage and it's pissing down.

Wouldn't advise adjusting the rod- you really do not want to not be putting any pressure on the piston without meaning to be applying the brake. There is a stop bolt on the actual pedal which is adjustable, but that is really for making sure the brake light switch comes on at the correct point. Sorry that doesn't offer any assistance to the original question.

 

[FENNER]

It's one and the same thing, surely? Adjust the rod, pedal moves closer to foot 'cos cylinder cannot move...or is there a dead-stop which needs adjusting too - I cannot see mine as the bike is parked the wrong way around in the garage and it's pissing down.

There is a dead stop because I disconnected the rod from the pedal and it still stays at the same height, I just can't see what's bl**dy stopping it coming up higher, I need to get it to sit higher if I can, the problem I have is that I ripped my patella tendon clean off the bone a few years ago and I find it awkward to tip my foot too far forward

Might have to screw a bit of 2x2 to the pedal

Tony

 

[AberdeenAngus]

Might have to screw a bit of 2x2 to the pedal

Tony

Or to the sole of your right boot.


The GSA has a doohickey on the brake pedal that flips down and makes the plate higher. It might be a straight swap for the GS one.
Perhaps someone can advise.

 

[FENNER]

Or to the sole of your right boot.


The GSA has a doohickey on the brake pedal that flips down and makes the plate higher. It might be a straight swap for the GS one.
Perhaps someone can advise.

Is doohickey a technical term

 

[iandavid]

Hi all

Is it possible to adjust the height of the rear brake pedal in relation to the foot peg on the GS1200 ? I find that I have to tip my foot a long way forwards before I even connect with the pedal and then by the time I push it down to use the brake it's really uncomfortable to the point that I find it hard to use the rear brake effectively. It's a non abs model so not linked to the front, and nothing looks bent ?

Thanks Tony

I had the same problem. If it's a GS then fit the NN brake pedal enlarger and remove the rubber inserts from the foot pegs. Job done.

 

[Edward Hitler]

AberdeenAngus has a point. The ADV has a flip down err thingy that raises the height of the brake pedal at it's resting position, this is for off road where you would be riding the bike mostly stood up. This pedal should go straight on to the Standard GS and would raise the pedal height about 1cm. As per the above comments be careful about adjust the rod between the pedal and master cylinder, do not take up any free play or you will be in bother.

 

[FENNER]

AberdeenAngus has a point. The ADV has a flip down err thingy that raises the height of the brake pedal at it's resting position, this is for off road where you would be riding the bike mostly stood up. This pedal should go straight on to the Standard GS and would raise the pedal height about 1cm. As per the above comments be careful about adjust the rod between the pedal and master cylinder, do not take up any free play or you will be in bother.

Going to look for a "flip down err thingy" but as a temporary I have removed the rubbers in the footpeg as someone suggested and just tweeked the adjusting rod so that the brake bites a bit earlier and did 100 miles tonight and it seemed better. There was a lot of movement before the master cylinder did anything before so I recon someone had been meddling !!

Tony