Rear brake pedal travel/throw

GSWizz

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How much throw/travel should there be on the rear brake pedal. I seem to be having to push my foot a hell of a long way before I get a positive effect. When holding it at a stop or slow speed manoeuvring I could do with it being a shorter throw. I cannot see any adjustment available here. I have put the wunderlich pedal enlarger on which has helped a bit but not enough. I spent half an hour doing slow speed practice tonight and am getting more comfortable with u turns etc but because of the poor position of the rear pedal it is an effort and still has me reaching for the front brake which is obviously a no no.
 
Mines same, also put enlarger on, have noticed if you apply front brake first the rear pedal action is far less, some thing to do with linking, and not ideal..
 
I couldn't contain myself. But if it gives me a bit more confidence it has to be worth it. Going along at speed is easy. The general handling of the bike is superb. The slow speed control is at the root of good riding. I can see that as being right. I would hate to drop it. I have it as a great touring bike and have no intention of being an off road hero either intentionally or even worse unintentionally.
 
Hi,
There is an adjuster at the end of the master
cylinder push rod/lever end. Loosen the 12mm nut and screw the push rod in/out to set lever/pad height to suit you. Careful not to allow the boot to twist up. I think it`s an 8mm flat on the rod.
May be someone will send a photo to illustrate it.
Cheers
 
Hi,
There is an adjuster at the end of the master
cylinder push rod/lever end. Loosen the 12mm nut and screw the push rod in/out to set lever/pad height to suit you. Careful not to allow the boot to twist up. I think it`s an 8mm flat on the rod.
May be someone will send a photo to illustrate it.
Cheers

I think you will find that this is for adjusting the amount of free play before the piston is operated by the pedal. Please make sure you leave some free play in the system. The pedal must move slightly before the push rod moves the piston in the master cylinder. If the play is not there the brakes will start to bind as everything heats up. Eventually the rear brake could seize on and enough heat can be generated to damage the final drive rubber.

John
 
Yes agreed there must be some free play. However there is a lot of `slop` in the system and adjusting it makes a big difference. The lever stops at the frame in the upwards position but the amount of downward travel can be reduced by adjustment of the push rod. I have done mine and no problems in 4500miles. Remember the rod adjustment is probably magnified by 6(guess) at the pad.
cheers
 
Yes agreed there must be some free play. However there is a lot of `slop` in the system and adjusting it makes a big difference. The lever stops at the frame in the upwards position but the amount of downward travel can be reduced by adjustment of the push rod. I have done mine and no problems in 4500miles. Remember the rod adjustment is probably magnified by 6(guess) at the pad.
cheers

Sounds like yours was out of adjustment (too much free play) and you have set it to where it should be with just enough free play to prevent problems. The rod adjustment will make no difference at the pads, unless you over adjust it end up applying pressure to the piston without the pedal being pressed. The adjustment is there just to adjust the length of the push rod onto the piston in the rear master cylinder, taking out excess free play is OK but it is the free play you are setting not the pedal height or travel.



John
 
I have the same problem. I really have to press way down to obtain any kind of braking, and a weak one at that. But I thought it was due to premature wear of the brake pads, apparently a common occurence on early models. People have had them changed under warranty with another number part. Anyway, I am bringing my bike to the dealer's tomorow morning. We'll see what they say, and if it's not the pads, then I hope they can adjust the free play of the brake pedal.
 


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