Rear Drive Bearings

[~Stef~]

Ive noticed movement in my rear wheel on my 1100, im getting movement at 12 and 6 o'clock with no movment at 3 & 9 o'clock

Reading through a few old threads it seems everyone else gets the opposite.

I suspect rear drive bearings. I can see slight movment in the crown wheel housing when rocking the wheel back n forth.

Anyone found a similar problem

~Stef~

 

[Steptoe]

does the play move with the wheel, or does it increase/decrease depending where the wheel is.

 

[Andy0557]

Ask roy about mike

Blue Sweeper may be able to give you the SP following big Mike's problem on the road to Oazarzate

 

[~Stef~]

does the play move with the wheel, or does it increase/decrease depending where the wheel is.

Movement appears to be constant regardless of wheel position, you can see movement at the gaitor on the swinging arm. Again top to bottom not side to side.

 

[littleredrooster]

Just had the same problem with mine. The reason for the movement at the 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock positions and NOT 9 and 3 is because the crown wheel and pinion prevents any movement in that direction. If you hold the back brake on and the movement disappears, the problem is the wheel bearing (mine was). If it still shows play with the brake on, it's the pivot bearings.

New bits from Motorworks: Bearing £31.99, seal £12.08, large 'o' ring for housing £3.30. Doddle to do if you have some bearing pullers - mine wasn't a hugely tight fit and didn't register on the gauge of the hydraulic press I used to press it on with - would have easily tapped on with the right-sized tube against the inner race.

When stripped, I could feel the play and the roughness when thrust was applied to the bearing - inner race was just starting to spall (break up). The next stage, apparently, is that the cage starts to disintegrate and the balls 'crowd' to one side of the race. This is rapidly followed by bearing failure. Don't neglect it!!

Seems to be common failure at around the 30,000 mile mark. Better than a mate's Fireplace, though, that devours both front and rear bearings AND headstock bearings every 16,000-ish.

 

[Iain Hogg]

Better than a mate's Fireplace, though, that devours both front and rear bearings AND headstock bearings every 16,000-ish.

But just how many get to that distance, and over how many years

 

[Steptoe]

you can see movement at the gaitor on the swinging arm. Again top to bottom not side to side.

this would indicate paralever bearings, not rear bevel bearings, you can take up a certain amount of play by adjusting the floating pivot pin ( the one thats on the wheel side of the swingarm), sometimes it fixes it permanantly, some bikes just a temporary fix , it depends how long its been moving and caused bearing damage.

 

[~Stef~]

Seems to be common failure at around the 30,000 mile mark. Better than a mate's Fireplace, though, that devours both front and rear bearings AND headstock bearings every 16,000-ish.

S'funny mines has just got to 30,000 miles

 

[~Stef~]

Tried the "wiggle" test with the back brake on, same result, 12 - 6 o'clock slight movment, 3 - 9 solid.

Oh and i would presume that when you take losen the gaitor on the swinging arm, oil isnt suppose to come out

Not alot, around 5ml, but I suspect the shaft seals not doing its job.

~Stef~

 

[~Stef~]

Nipped up the bearing bolt thingy, on the inside of the swinging arm, and no more play. I'll check the torque settings on it once i borrow the proper tools for doing it.

But before that ive removed the entire bevel drive as ive also got an oil leak, behind the bevel drive gaitor. Appears to be coming from the bevel drive oil seal, as theres no oil coming down from the gearbox. Haynes manual says its a dealer only job
~Stef~

 

[Mick Fagan]

Stef, the Haynes manual says dealer only for a lot of things we all do.

I haven't pulled a 1100 bevel box apart, yet! but when I do, it won't be as the Haynes manual says, take it to a dealer.

I would suggest that you should be able to pull it apart and replace the seal. You may have to manufacture a puller or think laterally.

My suggestion is to find someone with a 1150 manual on CD and see how it's done. There is, as far as I can work out, no factory manual for the 1100 GS but as the bevel box is identical give or take it should all be relevant.

Mick.

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

But just how many get to that distance, and over how many years

used to work with a guy that commuted 120 miles a day on a '92 fireblade.
It had 120,000 miles on it and hadn't missed a beat - he'd had it from new.

just consumables - and i don't mean bearings.

 

[~Stef~]

Stef, the Haynes manual says dealer only for a lot of things we all do.

I haven't pulled a 1100 bevel box apart, yet! but when I do, it won't be as the Haynes manual says, take it to a dealer.
Mick.

Thats genrally my chain of thought, never having put a bike in a dealers to have anything done befroe. Problem with this tho, is a "special tool" is required to remove the plate retaining the oil seal. (see pic) I have considered a few ideas to make one, but as ive a weeks holiday next week I want to get this sorted ASAP. So i'll probably get my dealer to sort it, tho taking in the bevel box and not the entire bike should keep costs down, and keep my record of not taking a "bike" into a dealers intact

 

[~Stef~]

bearings

Popped the bearings out yesterday, no problem using a suitable sized piece of alloy bar as a drift, they look fine to me

 

[franco]

Re: bearings

Popped the bearings out yesterday, no problem using a suitable sized piece of alloy bar as a drift, they look fine to me

Look fine??? The one on the right has got lots of grooves worn it in, and they're covered in oil.....tcha!!

 

[Paul G (BHT)]

The next stage, apparently, is that the cage starts to disintegrate and the balls 'crowd' to one side of the race. This is rapidly followed by bearing failure. Don't neglect it!!

Seems to be common failure at around the 30,000 mile mark.

My GS1100 has done about 41,000 mile and decided to dump all the oil out of the bevel box yesterday all over the back wheel.

A quick chat with Steptoe yesterday gave me a few pointers. I removed the rear wheel to find that the oil seal was completely pushed out of the housing. I lifted the oil seal out to find numerous pieces of the bearing ‘cage’ sitting in the bottom of the housing along with ‘crowded balls’ in the race.

I’m so glad this was only a 12 mile ride with Lucy to get hers MOT’d as I’m sure the consequences of a 150 mile ride with no oil in the diff would have been disastrous.

This experience, and reading this thread, has got me thinking…… if an Oil Head has done 30,000+ miles and a big trip is planned, would it be worthwhile changing the bearing before the trip? I’ll certainly be replacing Lucy’s before our Estonia trip next year… it’ll be worth the £50 just for piece of mind

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

some people count 12 miles as a big trip....

 

[SteveJ]

Pivot bearing adjustment

Finally solved my 12/6 o'clock rear wheel wobble. Only slight play, but enough to give you nighmares when you think of the consequences if left unchecked; ie shaft/gear wear.
First suspect was the 'old' crown wheel paranoia
After £60 on the crown bearing and seals the wobble was still there
Then I came across this thread (thanks for starting it and for everyone's input especially 'Steptoe')
After reading the thread decided to take a look at the pivot bearings. Problem, could only get the inner adjuster and locknut free. Decided not to push my luck on the outer in case of serious thread damage ! Damage these and its a new paralever housing £££. Thankfully the adjustment is on the inner; phew. 1/2 turn in and the play was eliminated. A 'eureka moment'
Aren't forums great. Mind you if I hadn't read the crown wheel bearing 'thread' first I could have saved myself £60, LOL.
Thanks to all again.