Our Gee
Registered user
Sorry for the Double Entry above, Don't know just how that happened !!.
Rear End Weave !!!
- Thread starter steve brazier
- Start date
weave
Not really relevant to the original thread but just to pick up on the subject of incompetent tyre fitters; There are usually a couple of coloured spots on the tyre wall which are supposed to be mounted next to the valve. This is because the tyre has been checked for balance and the dots are there to counteract the weight of the valve.
Have tried with the last few tyres i have bought, car and bike, to get the fitter to align the spots and valve but they just stick the tyres on and then sort it with lead weights.
The point being that maybe the weights would be unnecessary, assuming the rim is high quality. (BMW, high quality??)
Not really relevant to the original thread but just to pick up on the subject of incompetent tyre fitters; There are usually a couple of coloured spots on the tyre wall which are supposed to be mounted next to the valve. This is because the tyre has been checked for balance and the dots are there to counteract the weight of the valve.
Have tried with the last few tyres i have bought, car and bike, to get the fitter to align the spots and valve but they just stick the tyres on and then sort it with lead weights.
The point being that maybe the weights would be unnecessary, assuming the rim is high quality. (BMW, high quality??)
weave
Not really relevant to the original thread but just to pick up on the subject of incompetent tyre fitters; There are usually a couple of coloured spots on the tyre wall which are supposed to be mounted next to the valve. This is because the tyre has been checked for balance and the dots are there to indicate the best position for any imbalance in the tyre itself to counteract the weight of the valve.
Have tried with the last few tyres i have bought, car and bike, to get the fitter to align the spots and valve but they just stick the tyres on and then sort it with lead weights.
The point being that maybe the weights would be unnecessary, assuming the rim is high quality. (BMW, high quality??)
Not really relevant to the original thread but just to pick up on the subject of incompetent tyre fitters; There are usually a couple of coloured spots on the tyre wall which are supposed to be mounted next to the valve. This is because the tyre has been checked for balance and the dots are there to indicate the best position for any imbalance in the tyre itself to counteract the weight of the valve.
Have tried with the last few tyres i have bought, car and bike, to get the fitter to align the spots and valve but they just stick the tyres on and then sort it with lead weights.
The point being that maybe the weights would be unnecessary, assuming the rim is high quality. (BMW, high quality??)
Sorted?
Weaving
Guys,
Thanks for all of your replies, it really is refreshing to come back to this site after a while away and get such good feed back and unknown knowledge.
I have now had the wheel balanced ( I thought it a lot better once this had been done ) and the bike a 24k service, both Brian Giles who serviced the bike and a good mate who is a I.A.M Rider have said there is nothing wrong with the bike and it was most likely due to the balancing of the wheel !!!
Was it in my head !!!! New to RT's so was it the wind !!!
Who bl--dy knows
I will continue to ride the bike as I really love it
Cheers for all your help
Steve (in case any one is in East Sussex and see's a RED RT, please say hi)
Guys,
Thanks for all of your replies, it really is refreshing to come back to this site after a while away and get such good feed back and unknown knowledge.
I have now had the wheel balanced ( I thought it a lot better once this had been done ) and the bike a 24k service, both Brian Giles who serviced the bike and a good mate who is a I.A.M Rider have said there is nothing wrong with the bike and it was most likely due to the balancing of the wheel !!!
Was it in my head !!!! New to RT's so was it the wind !!!
Who bl--dy knows
I will continue to ride the bike as I really love it
Cheers for all your help
Steve (in case any one is in East Sussex and see's a RED RT, please say hi)
Another thought - Are you riding solo with the top box on as that can cause some movement especially at motorway speeds.
Weave
Paul,
Yes I am, I have noticed compared to my fully laden GSA the bike is very susceptible to wind (obviously due to full fairing)
I think wheel balance and the wind is the problem, I just have to get used to it
Steve
Once again cheers to all that have advised me in this issue
Paul,
Yes I am, I have noticed compared to my fully laden GSA the bike is very susceptible to wind (obviously due to full fairing)
I think wheel balance and the wind is the problem, I just have to get used to it
Steve
Once again cheers to all that have advised me in this issue
Wobs
Registered user
Weave
I am just going through exact same issue. Just bought a new to me twin cam RT with all the bits including that enormous top box. Running Michelin Pilot 3's.
Driving across the top of Exmoor the other day which does get windy and suddenly felt like I'd got a puncture. Only doing about 65.
Stopped checked, no puncture. Even checked for play in bearings. Nothing.
Same thing then happened on the M5. So I gritted teeth and pushed on through. Needless to say nothing disastrous happened.
When I thought about it and did a bit of research on the intraweb I came to the conclusion that it was possibly down to riding solo with that top box on and me not being used to it.
Not had time to test that theory as just sent the seat off to Melvin at CM seats to make it bearable for more than 100 miles. Then I'll be going the WESA route with Wilbers. This was a plan anyway as the RTs done 32,000 miles but decent shocks may also help with this rear end weave.
I've got Wilbers and a Melvin seat on my GS and the difference between them and the stock BMW stuff is night and day.
I am just going through exact same issue. Just bought a new to me twin cam RT with all the bits including that enormous top box. Running Michelin Pilot 3's.
Driving across the top of Exmoor the other day which does get windy and suddenly felt like I'd got a puncture. Only doing about 65.
Stopped checked, no puncture. Even checked for play in bearings. Nothing.
Same thing then happened on the M5. So I gritted teeth and pushed on through. Needless to say nothing disastrous happened.
When I thought about it and did a bit of research on the intraweb I came to the conclusion that it was possibly down to riding solo with that top box on and me not being used to it.
Not had time to test that theory as just sent the seat off to Melvin at CM seats to make it bearable for more than 100 miles. Then I'll be going the WESA route with Wilbers. This was a plan anyway as the RTs done 32,000 miles but decent shocks may also help with this rear end weave.
I've got Wilbers and a Melvin seat on my GS and the difference between them and the stock BMW stuff is night and day.
I have the large BMW top box on my RT, and its never been anything other than rock solid. Even at speed. I think any problem is more like tyre pressure or suspension related.
Wobs
Registered user
Weaving?
Thank stever1, you may have something there.
When I eventually found the valve on the front wheel cunningly hidden by BMW on the spoke, found pressures might be a bit low; F29/R34. I did say it was a (very) new bike to me. In my defence it had just been serviced by BMW.
Book sez 36/42 with driver and luggage.
Anyone got any recommendations for Michelin PR3's on a 1200RT mostly used with just me and the boxes (usually part full) or is the book right?
Memo to self, check the simple things first before trying to go all technical
Now just gotta get a 90 degree extension that works on these pressure sensor valves on the rear wheel.
Thank stever1, you may have something there.
When I eventually found the valve on the front wheel cunningly hidden by BMW on the spoke, found pressures might be a bit low; F29/R34. I did say it was a (very) new bike to me. In my defence it had just been serviced by BMW.
Book sez 36/42 with driver and luggage.
Anyone got any recommendations for Michelin PR3's on a 1200RT mostly used with just me and the boxes (usually part full) or is the book right?
Memo to self, check the simple things first before trying to go all technical
Now just gotta get a 90 degree extension that works on these pressure sensor valves on the rear wheel.
You're right. The solo/top box movement (and it is minor and feels far worse than it actually is) only seemed to occur with particular tyres but it was also an aerodynamic effect. Wasn't pressure affected though - well not within normal limits anyway.
Thank stever1, you may have something there.
When I eventually found the valve on the front wheel cunningly hidden by BMW on the spoke, found pressures might be a bit low; F29/R34. I did say it was a (very) new bike to me. In my defence it had just been serviced by BMW.
Book sez 36/42 with driver and luggage.
Anyone got any recommendations for Michelin PR3's on a 1200RT mostly used with just me and the boxes (usually part full) or is the book right?
Memo to self, check the simple things first before trying to go all technical
Now just gotta get a 90 degree extension that works on these pressure sensor valves on the rear wheel.
36F/42R seems to suit most people, on most tyres. But all tyre pressure "recommendations" are just that; they make a good starting point.
Wobs
Registered user
Thanks Martyn
Thank stever1, you may have something there.
When I eventually found the valve on the front wheel cunningly hidden by BMW on the spoke, found pressures might be a bit low; F29/R34. I did say it was a (very) new bike to me. In my defence it had just been serviced by BMW.
Book sez 36/42 with driver and luggage.
Anyone got any recommendations for Michelin PR3's on a 1200RT mostly used with just me and the boxes (usually part full) or is the book right?
Memo to self, check the simple things first before trying to go all technical
Now just gotta get a 90 degree extension that works on these pressure sensor valves on the rear wheel.
I have PR3's fitted to my RT. A lot better than the BT21's it came with.
Wobs
Registered user
Weaving
Yeah, I've got PR3's on and previous owner swore by them.
But I'm still buggered by several things
1. I'm a prat and didn't bother checking tyre pressure.
2. I've had an 1150GS for 13 years and a lotta miles and have got very used to it. Still got it. But differences between 1150GS and a twin cam RT are ............lots.
3. So much more power/less weight than an 1150 that I arrive at corners (and the back of other cars) much quicker than I thought so possibly some of the instability is me shaking.
4. Wish BMW hadn't put a jap nipple for indicators on instead of the fruit gums I'm used to. If I don't master this soon a bit of weaving will be the least of my worries.
Yeah, I've got PR3's on and previous owner swore by them.
But I'm still buggered by several things
1. I'm a prat and didn't bother checking tyre pressure.
2. I've had an 1150GS for 13 years and a lotta miles and have got very used to it. Still got it. But differences between 1150GS and a twin cam RT are ............lots.
3. So much more power/less weight than an 1150 that I arrive at corners (and the back of other cars) much quicker than I thought so possibly some of the instability is me shaking.
4. Wish BMW hadn't put a jap nipple for indicators on instead of the fruit gums I'm used to. If I don't master this soon a bit of weaving will be the least of my worries.
Wobs
Registered user
Vague weaving
Occasional vagueness still there. Tried various tyre pressures, run without top box or panniers. Still the same. An occasional vagueness which I thought was rear end but could just as easily be front end I guess.
Poked, prodded and tried to see if there's any obvious play front or rear. Only thing I can find is if I stand beside the bike, hold front brake and push forward there's a distinct single clunk. Fork tube action is fine because when you push up and down on the suspension without brake on, no clunk.
Did same thing on my 1150GS which is also telelever and no noise.
It's like a brake caliper is loose but they're not.
Maybe telelever bearings or ball joint? Maybe shock rubbers?
Anybody any ideas..................................please!!
Occasional vagueness still there. Tried various tyre pressures, run without top box or panniers. Still the same. An occasional vagueness which I thought was rear end but could just as easily be front end I guess.
Poked, prodded and tried to see if there's any obvious play front or rear. Only thing I can find is if I stand beside the bike, hold front brake and push forward there's a distinct single clunk. Fork tube action is fine because when you push up and down on the suspension without brake on, no clunk.
Did same thing on my 1150GS which is also telelever and no noise.
It's like a brake caliper is loose but they're not.
Maybe telelever bearings or ball joint? Maybe shock rubbers?
Anybody any ideas..................................please!!
Do you know any other (experienced) BMW rider/owner to try it ?
Once an idea has been sown in your mind it can be difficult to ignore.
If an experienced mechanic/BMW rider tested it & either agreed with you, or reassured you that all was OK, it might give you some food for thought.
Wobs
Registered user
Weaving
Done and sorted I think.
Front tyre (mich PR3) had done 10,000 miles but still had at least 2mm tread but was cupped quite badly.
Changed front tyre and now tracks as straight as a very straight thing even over tar banding on wet roads.
Booked in for change to WESA shocks as damping not so good but they are 32,000 miles old.
Done and sorted I think.
Front tyre (mich PR3) had done 10,000 miles but still had at least 2mm tread but was cupped quite badly.
Changed front tyre and now tracks as straight as a very straight thing even over tar banding on wet roads.
Booked in for change to WESA shocks as damping not so good but they are 32,000 miles old.
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