rear rack removal

[Berwick Ranger]

Evening all,

Got my lovely GS home yesterday in the foulest weather known to man. Cannot believe how filthy it was after 40 miles. Looked good though...

Anyway, I have started on a few tidying up jobs.

The rear rack (the silver coloured aluminium one) needs repainting so I started to try to take it off today. Removed the givi topbox and the black plastic latticed plate to reveal a very corroded metal plate beneath. This metal plate is connected to the rear rack with 4 allen bolts that screw in flush to the plate.

The two rearmost bolts were sized and rounded but managed to loosen with wd and heat. The two closest to the pilllion seat are completed rounded also and very seized. Tried the blowtorch and gallons of WD but nowt doing.

I took off the pillion seat and out with the tool kit to try and work out where these bolts go down to. I can't tell if there is a nut on the other end after the have gone through the rear rack on not.

I then thought that I could take off the rack with the plate still connected - then i could see underneath it all, but the rear light cluster is connected to it all!

any ideas would be MUCH appreciated.

 

[motobiker]

might this help you matey?

According to that picture (1150 rear rack) the bolts don't have any nuts attached... (just washers)

 

[Berwick Ranger]

Thanks for posting that tony -it's similar drawing to what I've looked at. So unless givi have gone with nuts rather than just the allen screws I think I should just be able to try drilling them out then get some replacements. I can't see that there would be nuts under there because it's fiddly to get to with the lighting cluster.

Just for clarification, the ones that are stuck go into the hole used by bolt 7 in the diagram above (and the 2nd obviously into the one next to it), but ofcourse the grab handle is not there and givi use allen headed screws that go down flush with the mounting plate.

 

[Vern]

Those long ones go right through to the numberplate and light hanger thingy,and there are two captive nuts on the frame underneath it,and are generally a pain in he butt to do anything with.I suggest brute violence in the following technical way.

Drill the heads off where the grab handle mounts normally,and then get a pin punch,and hammer the remaining studs right through towards the back wheel.The captive nuts are only on bent wires and don't put up too much of a fight.

When you put it back together,just use a normal nut and bolt.

Sorted

 

[davegs]

Bolts

And when you put it all back together use copperslip!.

 

[Boxer82]

Probably a bit late now.... but the advice I had on here was to hammer a slightly oversize torx drive into the rounded hex and then this provides enough grip to turn the bolt, which you then replace. Worked for me

Cheers, Don

 

[Berwick Ranger]

great idea. Will give that ago. thanks. I think the rusting is probably limited to around the actual hex bolt head so hopefully that will give enought grip to move it.

If not, I will patch it up in position for over winter and attack it with renewed vigour (or take it to someone!) in spring.

As a complete aside, my garage is detached from the house and blummin freezing. I've seen these little standmount propane heaters which are basically just a burner and a shield, and the stand. The ad says propane - but could I use normal bbq butane bottles? please excuse my ignorance if that's a really stupis question.

 

[MattW]

great idea. Will give that ago. thanks. I think the rusting is probably limited to around the actual hex bolt head so hopefully that will give enought grip to move it.

If not, I will patch it up in position for over winter and attack it with renewed vigour (or take it to someone!) in spring.

As a complete aside, my garage is detached from the house and blummin freezing. I've seen these little standmount propane heaters which are basically just a burner and a shield, and the stand. The ad says propane - but could I use normal bbq butane bottles? please excuse my ignorance if that's a really stupis question.

Your propane heater is probably designed to only run with propane and if it's supplied with a regulator, it'll be propane specific (runs at higher pressure). Also, you'll probably find that your butane won't work when its really cold (just when you need it!) - it tends to freeze up. When we had a camper van, we changed over to propane for this reason.

hth
Matt

 

[Voyager]

As a complete aside, my garage is detached from the house and blummin freezing.

Mine too.

I just installed a wood-burning stove (the two-storey building has existing chimneys).

HHHmmmmmmmm Toasty





Bob.

 

[Berwick Ranger]

that's what i want! My father in law has one in his workshop and I'm dead jealous. Keeps his tea hot and everything.

I could craft a temporary flue that i dangle out the window.....

 

[davegs]

Cold workshop

Whats wrong with the kitchen?
dave ( I hate christmas) GS

 

[Voyager]

I could craft a temporary flue that i dangle out the window.....

I hope you're joking





Bob.

 

[Voyager]

Whats wrong with the kitchen?
dave ( I hate christmas) GS

Bloomin' freezing in the kitchen . . .

Have you seen the price of heating oil these days





Bob.

 

[Berwick Ranger]

Mrs Ranger kept hanging the tea towels on it

 

[davegs]

Kitchens!

Quite serious but I 'aint married! probably why!!