So 243 is actually blue (I was confused by the red container). Certainly whatever BMW used originally was blue in colour.
Nick
Nick
Rear shock bottom bolt
- Thread starter big_kitch
- Start date
I've got some green loctite, not sure of the number, but it's a wicking sealant. Clever stuff.
Sure Nick.
Find a socket in your toolkit that is internally bigger than the outer diameter of the bush you need to remove. Use this socket reversed as a 'cup' over the bush, then with a piece of threaded bar or a long bolt through the socket and bush you can pack nuts/washers onto the thread and by tightening you then draw the bush out of the interference fit in the swing arm casting and into the oversized socket 'cup'.
I hope that makes sense?
Cheers. That does make sense. However, per one of my earlier posts, I ended up driving it out with a club hammer - a bit less subtle but effective!
MCT turned the rebuild around in 24 hours so I should have the shock back tomorrow. £125 including shipping which is a whole lot more reasonable than the alternative options.
Nick
Great tips in this thread thanks guys, my OEM rear shock got mashed on The Plains, even MHRacing in Chippenham couldnt fix it so I am now the proud owner of an Ohlins shock! However, while I removed the OEM without a problem, the Ohlin lower bearing doesn't fit in the lower mounting - looks like the lower bolt bush is sitting proud such that it reduces the gap. I'll try the hot water, and/or chefs blowtorch and the threaded bar trick and see if I can get it out. Given the age of my bike (2007 and 57,000 miles) I'm guessing it's corrosion and not loctite!
Bazzer
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bmw ,,corrosion is your friend 
Well with a combination of hot water and chefs blowtorch I got the lower bush out with more than a few tw*ts from the mallet! Not much corrosion at all but I'll clean it up and work out how to get the fecker back in - think the freezer may play a part this time! Any advice gratefully received chaps.....
cbrgaz
Registered user
+1 New bolts come from BMW with the blue loctite already on them.
How important is it that the Bush moves?
Hi All
Just had the rear shock off to get it serviced - no problems with the bolt but the bush (as was noted earlier in this thread) is completely seized - couldn't get it to shift - but maybe should just persevere and hit it harder.
How important is it that the bush moves - by the looks of it mine has been seized for some time.
Thanks
Hi All
Just had the rear shock off to get it serviced - no problems with the bolt but the bush (as was noted earlier in this thread) is completely seized - couldn't get it to shift - but maybe should just persevere and hit it harder.
How important is it that the bush moves - by the looks of it mine has been seized for some time.
Thanks
I did something very similar with a large socket on the outside, and some spacers on the inside. Then used a big G clamp to squeeze the bush out.
REVS had said it would almost certainly be seized. It is supposed to be able to move and must be removed/cleaned/lubed before refitting the shock. When taking the bush out I though there was no way that it was anything but an interference fit, it was that tight. But, I cleaned the bush and the swing arm hole with some fine emery, coated them with copper grease and in it slipped!!!! The tolerances must be very fine and it is easy to see how they seize up.
Is it important that the bush can move? I don't know, but that's how it is designed. Do I feel better knowing that it it was seized, but now it is lubed and able to move correctly? Most definitely!
Bendy toy
Registered user
I can't see why they don't use the rubber or polyurethane bonded to metal bushes normally seen on shock mounts.
kevingambrell
Registered user
If you want to be more accurate with the heat into the bolt head and bolt use a long series cheap crap torx bit.
Put the cheap torx driver in the bolt and heat the bit to cherry red with map gas. The heat will pass down the bit
into the bolt and not mar the paint. Once you have enough heat in the bolt take out the now buggered bit and use
a good quality bit to do the work.
Heat and shock are your friends with loctite in aluminum, punching into the bolt head before trying to undo it will help.
I use a length of drill rod as a punch but an old bolt will do the job.
To be honest if I ever have to do mine once its out il only use medium strength loctite to replace it.
Put the cheap torx driver in the bolt and heat the bit to cherry red with map gas. The heat will pass down the bit
into the bolt and not mar the paint. Once you have enough heat in the bolt take out the now buggered bit and use
a good quality bit to do the work.
Heat and shock are your friends with loctite in aluminum, punching into the bolt head before trying to undo it will help.
I use a length of drill rod as a punch but an old bolt will do the job.
To be honest if I ever have to do mine once its out il only use medium strength loctite to replace it.
Bendy toy
Registered user
When using a blow torch on the torx bit, a piece of aluminium sheet with a 12mm hole through can be used to shield the swing arm. Slip the sheet over the bit. 
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