Rear Shock bottom mount

[Redboots]

Any other suggestions?

From your photo in #8, the top mount still has the bolt in - ?
Remove it and put the wheel on a block of wood or something so there is no chance of a load on the bottom mount.

Repeat what you have been doing...

A cold chisel and a club-hammer splits the exhaust nut nicely

John

 

[fritz]

All sorted (all fronts)

explain in due course

PS John top nut was out on all occassions (except during explanatory pics perhaps

 

[MickDB1]

Can you get one of those ball joint splitters in and use the fork to drive it off outwards
I have used heat lots of as well - cool it/squirt with Plus gas ( stand back a tadge it fires up )
You got some pullers for 17 quid grind um down so they just go in behind
HTHY
Good luck

 

[r100/7]

when i got the rear shock of my 1993 gs the shock came off fine it was the big rubber bush and the metal inner spacer that i had a hell of a job getting off. but i sorted it in the en
i my take mine off and greeze it up and refit it.

 

[fritz]

At last, success

Right then.

Finally, I got the bastard thing off, after a week or so of trying all sorts

Freeze spray didn't work - cheers tho Kenny - think it'd work on some other things, such as a rusty thing on a rusty thing, might try it as a fast cooler for me beer sure it'll come in handy

Heat didn't work either, but I didn't go too mad (ie not red-hot) and didn't budge it either - but equally didn't bugger the seals.

Prising etc nowt

The puller fnally worked though, £16 well spent.

For those not great in the garage (hello ) an explaination.

The puller works against the stud and brings the mount forward in (as near as possible) in a straight line, which you can't get by prising or hammering etc.

As the bearing sleeve is such a ridiculously tight fit I was concerned about the force I'd need to apply to the stud, I used loads of penetrating fluid (remember, this was a new fit, so not 'corroded' on - just to assist if possible). I used care and moved slowly.

Even then the pointy bit on the puller was flattened by the load and the end of the stud was very, very minor deformed (made sure nut was on to 'support' thread and ensure I could protect it).

Pictures, puller showing where I had to grind a bit off so legs would go behind lower part of shocker.

 

[fritz]

in place ( in use it was 'on' better than shown here)

 

[fritz]

Another.

Note these are with the Ohlins in place - not the Wilbers

Also note black mark on stud and nut so I can check nut isn't coming loose easily in use

 

[fritz]

The reason for all this is the Wilbers bottom mount bearing is simply the wrong size, it's too tight. I won't be fitting this on the other GS as it's the wrong size, I'll have to take it up with Wilbers having spent over £200 on a rebuild.

If you have a wilbers see my other post regarding this.

To explain why the Ohlins is so much better see the pictures that follow.

I also now realise I haven't 'sanded' down the pivot (as mentioned ealier in this thread) to get and easier fit - I'd forgoten how the Ohlins fits on 'top-hat' spacers rather than directly onto the pivot.

The Wilbers set up - the spacers only cover the washer seals, the main bearing is fixed in the middle and would take some considerable work with wet n dry to get to be an 'easy' fit.

 

[fritz]

The Ohlins set up. If the 'top-hat' (I guess they are called something else, that's my description) spacers don't fit, you can't get the shock on, and you'd never get this problem.

 

[r100/7]

just looking at my rear shock on my gs and after i took the lock nut and washer off mine had no bearing just a metal spacer in side the big rubber part.

so i guess you could swop the bearing for a metal spacer instead and it my be a better fit.

 

[fritz]

just looking at my rear shock on my gs and after i took the lock nut and washer off mine had no bearing just a metal spacer in side the big rubber part.

so i guess you could swop the bearing for a metal spacer instead and it my be a better fit.

I don't think you can easily see the elastomeric part, but you can feel it when you twist the shock - an obviously 'rubbery' movement (even when fully tightened). If no movement like that, then its fixed and solid. Does it move along stud easily enough with lock-nut etc (and top mount) off - in which case great, and is it a Wilbers? If so see my other thread ;-)

 

[r100/7]

with the top nut off and the bottom lock nut and washer off there is only a tiny amount off movment up and down when i moved the shock and the rest of it is soild.