RIXTER
Registered user
Hi guys,as above, what's the procedure ? Thanks in advance. BTW 1150 GS '02.
Rear sub frame removal
- Thread starter RIXTER
- Start date
Well i removed mine for powder coating a couple of years ago.
Its just nuts and bolts so fairly straightforward but take a few pix of the wiring.Getting the fuse/relay box back in was the trickiest bit if i remember correctly as was the wiring to the rear light indicators.Oh yes...dont trap the rear brake switch wiring behind the hanger.
Its just nuts and bolts so fairly straightforward but take a few pix of the wiring.Getting the fuse/relay box back in was the trickiest bit if i remember correctly as was the wiring to the rear light indicators.Oh yes...dont trap the rear brake switch wiring behind the hanger.
As colban says.
Undo bolts. remove frame.
afterwards, put frame in place. Replace bolts and tighten. Scratch head wondering where left over bolts go.
Undo bolts. remove frame.
afterwards, put frame in place. Replace bolts and tighten. Scratch head wondering where left over bolts go.
Fuse/relay box stays in place and subframe pulls back and up and lifts off. Reverse procedure to replace
johnhorsley5
Registered user
Lifting the rear subframe to fit new loom
So why won't my rear sub-frame lift up?
Is there something to do with the airbox that's holding it down?
I've removed the bolts and the exhaust bolts
So why won't my rear sub-frame lift up?
Is there something to do with the airbox that's holding it down?
I've removed the bolts and the exhaust bolts
johnhorsley5
Registered user
Took me a while to realise that there is the long threaded rod through the engine.
Warning to others - Don't drop the bike off the main stand when it's partially dismantled. It's then not possible to get it back on the stand on your own Duh!!
Warning to others - Don't drop the bike off the main stand when it's partially dismantled. It's then not possible to get it back on the stand on your own Duh!!
west coast traveller
Registered user
A good way to stop this happening is to ratchet strap the main stand to the front wheel. This also works well on ferries...
I found it tricky when putting the frame back on and working it round the solid brake lines. A second pair of hands was needed. This was on an 1100gs so may be different.
johnhorsley5
Registered user
Got some muscle and put it back on the stand, but trying to line up the holes for the front of the rear subframe, it fell off the stand again. Arrgh!
Any suggestions for lining up the holes without trashing the metal (too much) ?
Any suggestions for lining up the holes without trashing the metal (too much) ?
If you can, run a loose strap around the tail-end of the sub-frame, to the ceiling. Have the frame at about 45 degrees so that the front-end can be worked over the battery tray.
Then you need to guide the two furthest forward, flat 'tangs' into line and slide the long pin through them and the block. If you want, you can put the nuts back on the pin but don't do them-up tight.
Next, lower the sub-frame a little at a time making certain that the loom sits where it should between the air-box and the frame.
Don't do-up any of the bolts until everything lines-up properly. Take care that the rear brake pipes are routed correctly.
Then you need to guide the two furthest forward, flat 'tangs' into line and slide the long pin through them and the block. If you want, you can put the nuts back on the pin but don't do them-up tight.
Next, lower the sub-frame a little at a time making certain that the loom sits where it should between the air-box and the frame.
Don't do-up any of the bolts until everything lines-up properly. Take care that the rear brake pipes are routed correctly.
johnhorsley5
Registered user
Thanks
It's getting all the holes in line at the front is the problem. When the bike came off the stand the front subframe shifted and the bracket between the headstock and where the front of the rear subframe is bolted has shifted. I am hoping that when I lift the engine again the frames will line up
It's getting all the holes in line at the front is the problem. When the bike came off the stand the front subframe shifted and the bracket between the headstock and where the front of the rear subframe is bolted has shifted. I am hoping that when I lift the engine again the frames will line up
johnhorsley5
Registered user
Got it back on the stand after lifting it with a length of 4x2 some blocks and the car jack. Just need to line up the holes to push the rod through completely, then to connect the loom and add some tywraps.
My recommendation for someone's next time is not to bother removing the long rod but slacken it and rotate the subframe round this rod after removing the front bolts.
My recommendation for someone's next time is not to bother removing the long rod but slacken it and rotate the subframe round this rod after removing the front bolts.
I thought that is what everyone does anyway
And straps the stand around the front wheel so the bike can't roll off the stand
ahebron
Registered user
No never ratchet the front wheel of a ferry to its mainstand. They can't steer it then.
Adrian
johnhorsley5
Registered user
I thought that is what everyone does anyway
And straps the stand around the front wheel so the bike can't roll off the stand
I obviously hadn't done enough reading. I thought I needed to remove the subframe to swap the loom, not just rotate it.
I will know next time
Dude. Sincerely, I think you just took one for the team.
johnhorsley5
Registered user
Scraping noise
I am aware this is rather a long shot but here goes.
I have just completed fitting a new wiring harness to my 99T GS.
When I started the engine, there is a scraping screech but I only replaced the loom/harness plus a few electrical upgrades, so why the mechanical noise.
During the process I dropped the bike off the stand when the rear subframe was off and the belly of the bike dropped too low to get is back on the stand so I had to get help to lift it up.
Is it possible that something in the drive train has been disturbed?
But it makes this noise even when in Neutral.
It might be the alternator, but the noise seems to be coming from lower down.
I don't understand why an electrical job should have mechanical side effects.
If necessary I could post a recording of the noise
I am aware this is rather a long shot but here goes.
I have just completed fitting a new wiring harness to my 99T GS.
When I started the engine, there is a scraping screech but I only replaced the loom/harness plus a few electrical upgrades, so why the mechanical noise.
During the process I dropped the bike off the stand when the rear subframe was off and the belly of the bike dropped too low to get is back on the stand so I had to get help to lift it up.
Is it possible that something in the drive train has been disturbed?
But it makes this noise even when in Neutral.
It might be the alternator, but the noise seems to be coming from lower down.
I don't understand why an electrical job should have mechanical side effects.
If necessary I could post a recording of the noise
Starter motor not disengaging?
johnhorsley5
Registered user
Re: Strange Noise
That's one option. I have removed it and will clean it up.
While it's out I've removed the plugs and front cover so that I can turn the engine by hand.
There's one point where something is lightly scraping.
Bu**er
Next I will remove the alternator. If it's not that, it going to have to be a check on the clutch. That's this summer(!)'s riding over
That's one option. I have removed it and will clean it up.
While it's out I've removed the plugs and front cover so that I can turn the engine by hand.
There's one point where something is lightly scraping.
Bu**er
Next I will remove the alternator. If it's not that, it going to have to be a check on the clutch. That's this summer(!)'s riding over
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