Rear wheel bolt replacement

Deleted Member MS

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Has anyone replaced the four 12mm bolts holding the wheel/hub, with non BM parts at all.
I just wonder what you used ??

(and can anyone confirm what tensile strength they should be ??)

Im looking to replace mine with HT S/steel but cannot find S/S with the correct HT strength for the moment.

Cheers folks
 
Thanks.
Im looking to replace the items with stainless but cannot find any that are exactly the correct tensile strength (I can find some bolts that have values more than the recommended "HT", and some that have less,but none that are spot on)
 
why? FFS why? if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
leave it alone.

TBH...I think this is an item that should be left as standard...just my 2d worth :thumb2
I think they've got a point. :rob The ones I've seen aren't a standard nut and bolt shape, as they were slightly tapered.

If you're worried about corrosion, I suppose you could just loosen them and torque them up to the correct setting again once in a while, but don't spray them with WD40 etc.
 
If you're worried about corrosion, I suppose you could just loosen them and torque them up to the correct setting again once in a while, but don't spray them with WD40 etc.

PLEASE, THIS IS TONGUE IN CHEEK hence :toungincheek at end :blast

Best use copperslip ;) no corrosion worries then :)

Might get the idea someone is trying to pinch them though :toungincheek
 
Best use copperslip ;) no corrosion worries then :)
That was my first reaction too, but a BMW qualified mechanic (and Slimbo etc) :thumb2 made it very clear that you could clean the general crud off, but they should go back in dry ie exactly as they came out ie no WD40, no Copperslip, no grease - in fact no bloody anything. :D

If you're paranoid about water getting in, after they've been torqued up, you can smear a bit of grease around the top. :rob
 
Why would you want stainless Martin, is it for the bling factor, I suppose they could be chromed if it was the bling you were after.
 
No, not bling, although all other bolts etc are S/s on the bike.
Even though Ive renewed the wheel bolts once, they still end up rusty after a few hard winters on the bike.

Still nobody on here has confirmed what the tensile strength they should be . . . . . .
. . . anyone ???
 
Bolts

The BMW torque settings are based on dry threads. Lubricate the threads and you'll end up over-tightening them. (as some folks have found out the hard way when they shear off) :(

There are plenty of places on the bike to use nice stainless nuts and bolts, but this not on the rear wheel bolts.

Some ACF or similar on the bolt heads after fitting should keep them nice and clean (and use a proper hex socket to keep the plating intact).
 
Still nobody on here has confirmed what the tensile strength they should be . . . anyone ??
Got to admire your persistance but seriously, I doubt anybody will know, because it's never been an issue before. :nenau

If it was up to me it wouldn't be an issue now, but it's your bike and your neck. :thumb2
 
i think you are very unlikely to get stainless replacements in the same spec as the originals.

frankly, those are the last bolts i would ever replace with SS :rolleyes:
 
I think there may be a bloody good reason why you can't buy SS wheel bolts from the vast choice of after market goodie people out there!
 


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