Rear wheel free play

[Pykie]

Hello all,

i've noticed the back end on my 1100gs feeling a bit vague this week, so checked the tyre pressures, and have found a little free play if i grab the rear wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and move it back and forth.

I'm assuming the hub bearings must be at fault, but all seems to run smooth with no vibration or notchiness.

I had to change the hub seal about 4000 miles ago, and the big bearing was fine at the time.

So, before i take the final drive apart, could i be missing something else?

All the spokes are tight, as are the wheel bolts.

 

[davegs]

Check swivel pins have a look in the font of al wisdom or could be the bearing in the final drive this is possibly it. I await to shot down by you know who!!

 

[Canuck]

If you go down the line of needing to replace either para or FD bearings I did mine a year ago and have the requestite tools... feel free to stop over sometime!

 

[Steptoe]

Paralever bearings - The play can be adjusted out on the inside pivot pin. You don't even have to remove the rear wheel. use an extension through the spokes.

 

[Colban]

What happens when you try rocking the wheel with the rear brake on.
This clamps the wheel to the hub,so any movement is down to the paralever bearings,which can be adjusted.

 

[Wrigsby1]

Piece of piss check for paralever bearings. Rear wheel off, parallel bar unbolted from bevel and move the bevel through its arc and feel for notchiness. If they are they are fecked and it will be obvious. That is where the play usually comes from.

It takes about 15 mins to check and you can change them yourselves with some decent tools and a heat gun to loosen the thread locked bolts.

 

[Pykie]

Thanks

Thanks,

you are all dead right, it is the paralever - bevel box bearings that are at fault. When I had a fresh look today it was obvious, I could even hear the RH one clonking.

I did as Wrigsby suggested and took the wheel off and disconnected the torque arm, and the bearings are indeed horribly notchy, so they'll have to go.

Thanks Mr Canuck for your kind offer. I do usually try and buy tools as I need them, rather than spending hours scrounging or bodging like I used to (when I was even more skint than I am now), but you never know. I'll get in touch if I need to.

The job looks quite straightforward, though without taking it apart I cant tell how hard it will be to get the bearings out of the housing. Do they just drop out with a bit of heat or is it a bit more involved than that? I'm guessing that a little internal bearing puller will fit on them ok if necessary - am I right?

Thanks again,

Olly

 

[robc]

Do they drop out? Oh yes, especially the new ones. All nice and greasy and you WILL drop at least one of them onto your dusty garage floor.

Hands up whose got that t-shirt.

Regards

Rob C

 

[MattW]

Thanks,

you are all dead right, it is the paralever - bevel box bearings that are at fault. When I had a fresh look today it was obvious, I could even hear the RH one clonking.

I did as Wrigsby suggested and took the wheel off and disconnected the torque arm, and the bearings are indeed horribly notchy, so they'll have to go.

Thanks Mr Canuck for your kind offer. I do usually try and buy tools as I need them, rather than spending hours scrounging or bodging like I used to (when I was even more skint than I am now), but you never know. I'll get in touch if I need to.

The job looks quite straightforward, though without taking it apart I cant tell how hard it will be to get the bearings out of the housing. Do they just drop out with a bit of heat or is it a bit more involved than that? I'm guessing that a little internal bearing puller will fit on them ok if necessary - am I right?

Thanks again,

Olly

You'll find the paralever bearings separate leaving you with the outer race in the swingarm. A bit of heat and a suitable drift to the rear of the race (drift through the other bearing) or a blind bearing puller will work fine. For a drift, a suitable socket on an 8" extension works (fit the socket to the extension 'inside' the swingarm) although I made a puller from m8 studding, nuts, sockets and washers.

Mine felt like the needles were square

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Gyx_bW6yMaDjDDGXU_r3AQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_SSn2CtCOKnU/ScdT8GssOYI/AAAAAAAABZ4/jU89AvKvPRc/s800/IMG_4344.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a>

 

[robc]

The last time I did mine they just popped out. No drift was required. The new ones just slipped in place too.

I thought it odd at the time because I do remember having to drift them out & in when I changed them a year previous. The part number was definitely correct and I bought them from a BMW dealer.

Anyway, replacing them is one of the easier GS jobs to do.

Regards

Rob C

 

[Trullion]

I had to drift mine out. I put the new ones in the freezer overnight and then used a hot air gun to warm the housing; the new ones went in with no difficulty.

 

[Pykie]

AAGGGGHHHHHH! Swine machine!

I take it apart and lo! Gear oil falls out. The bevel box input seal is shafted too. Magic.

I have had a look at Steptoes info on the subject of changing the seal, which seems easy enough if you have the right tool.

Does anyone know where I can get hold of a suitable 4 lug box socket, or do I have to make one?

I could do with getting back on the road as soon as possible really, so I'm wondering what the quickest solution is. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Olly

 

[davegs]

Seal

Send it to Steppers, he's got the right tool very tight and probably difficult to budge, he's done it on here so do a search.
Dave GS