Recommend me a torque wrench

Doberman

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I want to start servicing my GSA myself, so I could do with some decent tools. I believe there are different torque settings for each screw, so I am after a compact-portable wrench. I already have one, and it ranges from 10-80 Nm.

Do I need to look at something different?
Thanks in advance.
:beerjug:
 
I want to start servicing my GSA myself, so I could do with some decent tools. I believe there are different torque settings for each screw, so I am after a compact-portable wrench. I already have one, and it ranges from 10-80 Nm.

Do I need to look at something different?
Thanks in advance.
:beerjug:

imho that should be fine for general servicing , a decent torx set , oil filter tool etc and your ready to save some cash on main dealer servicing :thumb2
 
this one

Aldi
tomorrow
not sure what its like but its £12.99 i think :beerjug:
 
I have one of those Draper torque wrenches and it can be inaccurate in my experience - be careful tightening smaller bolts as it's nearly sheared a few VFR caliper bolts and cam cover screws! :mad: And yes, as an apprentice trained engineer, I do know how to use a torque wrench :thumb

My Halfords Professional torque wrench is a much better quality tool IMHO :thumb2
 
The item listed HERE is problably what you're interested in. The heavy stuff usually requires closing the bolt, or nut combination, and adding somewhere between one and two turns. I've never found a problem with that hypothisis and don't bother with setting the specified torque for wheels, shocks and drain plugs etc.

If it feels like you are straining to close something down, then it's too much: You do have permission to use a torque wrench though, because I reckon you're strong enough remove wheel bolts without any tools. ;)
 
The one from Halfords look good, very good. The range is 8-60 Nm. Is that all we need or are there screws that require more than 60 Nm?:confused:
 
If it feels like you are straining to close something down, then it's too much: You do have permission to use a torque wrench though, because I reckon you're strong enough remove wheel bolts without any tools. ;)

I wouldn't like to bend the chassis, that's why I don't do it by hand...:D
 
I have a couple of Nornar wrenches, great quality, calibrated and accurate (over thousands of cycles) and not too much dosh.

I have a 3/8ths drive for smaller stuff and a 1/2 inch drive for the bigger bolts, although you could get one to cover most (if not all) GS stuff it is far easier not to have to wind up and down the scales all the time so the larger one is used for spindles and wheel bolts and the smaller one does the rest.
 
Machine mart had some good ones. I got one of Amazon for the micro adjustments on Bicycles for £30 that works very well. The cheaper wrenches like Draper only start from 30.
 
I had a look at the Norbar, they look good. By the way, what is the correct range for our bikes?
8-60 Nm or 20-100 Nm?:confused:
 
I had a look at the Norbar, they look good. By the way, what is the correct range for our bikes?
8-60 Nm or 20-100 Nm?:confused:

8-60 Should do for most things, the rear wheel is 60nm and general maintenance I do not think needs anything heavier that that, certainly you should be able to change the oil, remove wheels and brakes and do the tappets within that range.

Lots of fixings and fastenings are below 20nm, see here for full list:

http://www.r1200gs.info/misc/torque.html
 
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Who the hell keeps receipts for life?
 


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