Refurbing the GS

[DrFarkoff]

Not planning to split the fd from the paralever, Jay.

Be very careful not to pull the driveshaft too far out Or You WILL need to split the paralever

Besides its good practice to lube the splines, Clear out the crap and grease the pinion bearings

Also New Kit from Motorworks Metal with Bronze insert and grease nipples and new pins

or Nushings Nylon Bushes no new pins The bloke reckons they don;t fit 88 to 90 Paras

But I just checked my Bushing kit from my Airhead swaps into a parts 1150 FD and back and there's only one part number Mo successions So I don;t know what the craic is with that

Anyway .... to replace those fucking platinum plated dopey arse bearings

 

[Posh Pete]

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[solidstate100]

Watch those Indicator stalks if they are the rubber ones

I seem to recall No Longer available

Available from Motobins. Have been for the last 5 years or so. But at £33 each they aint cheap!

 

[Posh Pete]

Well, that’s the exhaust system off plus crash bars and oil cooler and gearbox. Nearly a panic when the lower off side bearbox bolt would not release. Then I realised that there was another longer bolt on the other side of the bell housing. Yet again, BMW design/production engineers took a verbal pasting as I tried to undo the bolts at the top of the box (in the airbox). Quite why they used allen bolts when 13 mm hexes would have been much easier to undo in that confined area ...

Next steps? To be honest, I'm a bit nervous about all those electrics and cables. Time to sit back and mull things over. The idea of doing an "Ash" and painting the frame as is, is quite tempting!

 

[Tetley]

Go for it Pete, it will be fine. I would suggest you use a semi gloss non gassing powder coating on the black bits.
C

 

[Posh Pete]

Go for it Pete, it will be fine. I would suggest you use a semi gloss non gassing powder coating on the black bits.
C

That was my original thought Colin, Then I was temporarily seduced by the glossy look on Mikey's R80 project frame. However, sense will prevail I reckon.

 

[Posh Pete]

So, taking heart from Tetley’s encouragement, today’s job was pulling the carbs (all orifices well stuffed), removing the bars and making a start on the wiring. Removing the clutch cable and carb cables allowed more room but I still snipped one of the heated grip cables. They were never that great anyway!

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[tuftywhite]

Pete, can I ask why it has one red rocker cover, and one black? Is it some sort of navigational reminder?

Good work by the way, loving the thread.

 

[timeandtide]

Pete, can I ask why it has one red rocker cover, and one black? Is it some sort of navigational reminder?

Good work by the way, loving the thread.

I noticed that too - knowing Pete’s penchant for politics it’s no surprise that it’s the left one that’s red!

 

[Posh Pete]

Pete, can I ask why it has one red rocker cover, and one black? Is it some sort of navigational reminder?

Good work by the way, loving the thread.

Here ya go https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/541767-Red-Sonja-new-(to-me)-airhead?highlight=Sonja ... post 14 should do it? I only swapped one, pro tem. The left one of course!

 

[tuftywhite]

Ta. Understood.

 

[Posh Pete]

Ta da ... A beached squid! What a palaver! But we got there. Points to note...

1. retrieving the cables for the handlebar switchgear is a job for a double jointed gynaecologist but a bit of patience and moving the connecting blocks through 90 deg and job done.

2. The job gets a lot easier after removing the plastic sheet / spray guard covering the A where the lower frame tubes meet the steering head.

3. Patience and a dog will eat a pancake! (Geordie gran's saying and oh so true!)

4. Take loads of pics! How effective that is, I'll let you know during the rebuild!

 

[Posh Pete]

Nearly there now but some questions for the collective please ...

1. The spindle for the paralever torque arm won’t release. I’ve removed the circlip and loosened the nut on the other end - have I missed owt?

2. Best way of getting the engine out without busting a gut please? Lay it on its side and lift the frame off? (The bolts are more slippy than a politician’s promises btw. I’ve been lubing them since I got the bike!!)

3. I got the fork stanchions out but not the rest. Is it a 32mm hex?

4. Prepping the frame for powder coating: what do I do about the steering lock? Do I remove the races or just the bearings?

Cheers all. Off for a wee celebratory swallie!


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[DrFarkoff]

Make a wooden box / sturdy plank and slip it below the engine and make sure it cant budge

Lift front of engine via plank and lever and slip out the front bolt and set down gently

Back bolt should fairly easily come out and set back of engine down on the plank

You and fairly able mate straddle the plank and grab a cylinder each and lift over the frame and set on plank

One of you then comes around the frame and gets a grip of the cylinder again and set it on the Ground

Be warned they like to fall on their nose so a block of wood of appropriate height under the front is a good idea

Even better if you can shape it around the timing chest

great work

 

[Posh Pete]

Job done. It looks a bit Heath Robinson and it was but, with one of us to steady the engine and the other shifting the frame out of the way, we got it onto a mover’s trolley ...

I suppose an alternative would have been 4 jack stands and a substantial and wide plank or square of strong ply?

 

[Posh Pete]

That’s the frame degreased and pretty much ready for coating. The vertical battery cage rubber mounts are proving awkward. They are secured by captive threads rather than 10mm nuts, so they’ve been given a Plus Gas soaking.

Other jobs mounting up: centre stands needs welding and probably new bushes. The steering head bearings feel a tad notchy also and the races are marked. I’ll be getting our local airhead guru involved!

 

[peterc]

Im doing the same with my R100 PD, not removed the motor thus far, the final drive is being vapour blasted today before a rebuild, I also note comments the cost of a full restore, its scary.
Are you vapour blasting most stuff and rebuilding the engine?
Looking froward to the next instalment.
Peter

 

[peterc]

PS does anyone have ideas on how to fix the damaged exhaust port threads, one side on mine are kaput.

 

[Posh Pete]

Im doing the same with my R100 PD, not removed the motor thus far, the final drive is being vapour blasted today before a rebuild, I also note comments the cost of a full restore, its scary.
Are you vapour blasting most stuff and rebuilding the engine?
Looking froward to the next instalment.
Peter

Nope. I'll get busy with wire wool / Brillo pads and mild abrasive on the alloy parts. The top end has been done fairly recently by Jay of this parish and the bottom end and timing chain seem Ok, so will be left alone. A new clutch friction plate, while I'm in there and new push rod tunnel seals. A clean up and re-paint of the timing case which is pretty scabby. New neutral switch and washer as it's a bit erratic and seems to be leaking oil. Even that limited scope is heading for £200 in parts! Plus the cost of the plastic coating and some labour for the locaL guru to do stuff I'm hesitant about. But hey ho, it's only money and there's no pockets in a shroud etc etc!

PS does anyone have ideas on how to fix the damaged exhaust port threads, one side on mine are kaput.

You might get away with using a thread file? If not, then there are alternatives involving a replacement "collar". https://images.app.goo.gl/JJbiHss2TGDYdpYn9

 

[DrFarkoff]

PS does anyone have ideas on how to fix the damaged exhaust port threads, one side on mine are kaput.

Don't use those collars they are a very cheap fix and can get very out of shape

Motorworks and Motobins used to do a replacement thread job (Send your heads in ) which basically fitted a threaded brass outer in place of the threads

Really good and a lifetime job