trying to remove the bottom bolt to take off the front shock and the head has rounded over any ideas how to remove it
removal of rounded over front suspension bolt
- Thread starter alfie
- Start date
comberjohn
Registered user
Just having changed mine, I can appreciate the problem. I was lucky enough and the bolt removed without any problems.
Others might have some ideas but what about an extractor tool with some heat applied to the side where the threads are?
I believe that BMW may have used some heavy duty thread lock on that bolt.
Others might have some ideas but what about an extractor tool with some heat applied to the side where the threads are?
I believe that BMW may have used some heavy duty thread lock on that bolt.
flatdog
Registered user
Just take it to your local bike shop... they'll sort it out.
If youre strapped for cash, the bolts already shagged, just use some vice grips and ........ sorry,
Ignore me thought this was the 1150 tech section t
If youre strapped for cash, the bolts already shagged, just use some vice grips and ........ sorry,
Ignore me thought this was the 1150 tech section t
Get nut, slightly bigger than rounded bolt, and weld it to bolt. Better purchase and heat can soften the thread lock too.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Use a heat gun to get the threads to >100C to melt the thread lock.
Find a hex socket - impact grade that will fit the nut and it might have enough purchase to turn it. Any half decent professional will have other sized sockets that should fit the worn down nut.
In future avoid 12 point sockets and always try smaller sizes before trying to turn the fastener.
If you arc weld anything on a BMW (or any modern bike) ALWAYS disconnect battery AND electronics AND the alternator. I blew the alternator volts reg by welding on my last last bike although I had the battery removed.
Find a hex socket - impact grade that will fit the nut and it might have enough purchase to turn it. Any half decent professional will have other sized sockets that should fit the worn down nut.
In future avoid 12 point sockets and always try smaller sizes before trying to turn the fastener.
If you arc weld anything on a BMW (or any modern bike) ALWAYS disconnect battery AND electronics AND the alternator. I blew the alternator volts reg by welding on my last last bike although I had the battery removed.
Have you got a 1200GS ? if you have take a look at the bolt.
It's not a nut that's rounded off.
Deleted account 181015003
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Have you got a 1200GS ? if you have take a look at the bolt.
It's not a nut that's rounded off.
Was it a torx bolt by any chance that needed the thread lock warming before attempting to remove it ?
Maybe this little fella
My front shock bottom bolt is a well recessed Torx bolt ( female) 
That's on a 2010
That's on a 2010Bendy toy
Registered user
Have you got a 1200GS ? if you have take a look at the bolt.
It's not a nut that's rounded off.
Doh! Should have gone to take a look.
OP hasn't used the wrong size Torx bit perchance? Try the heat and hammering a larger bit into the screw head. Maybe with an impact screwdriver (Cant remember if there's enough space to swing a hammer)
Post a pic alfie to clarify the problem.
can't down load pics but yes its the torx bolt that holds the shock to the wishbone it was so tight did get
it moving then it just rounded off. could do with a mobile engineer to get it out .
it moving then it just rounded off. could do with a mobile engineer to get it out .
If you had it moving ensure all the weights off the bolt, spray some lube i.e. gas plus onto the thread and it may just move.
Host you images at somewhere like flickr or tinypic and post a link.
Host you images at somewhere like flickr or tinypic and post a link.
comberjohn
Registered user
Or buy a complete suspension arm sans bolt for £14. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-BMW-R-1200-GS-R1200GS-1200GS-FRONT-SWING-ARM-SHOCK-WISHBONE-SUSPENSION-/121978546620?hash=item1c667ce9bc:g:jkIAAOSw2x1XLKcy
Just saying..
Just saying..
That was my next thought getting a replacement wishbone might be easier in the long run
kevingambrell
Registered user
Try an allen socket in the buggered Torx, you may find one that fits just well enough to undo the offending item.
Before try to undo it heat the lot to as Bendy says a bit over 100 degrees. Just because the bolts started to move
you still want to soften the loctite.
When you do get it out replace it with an A2 stainless steel allen bolt. Torx are great for machine assembly
but shite for anything else.
Before try to undo it heat the lot to as Bendy says a bit over 100 degrees. Just because the bolts started to move
you still want to soften the loctite.
When you do get it out replace it with an A2 stainless steel allen bolt. Torx are great for machine assembly
but shite for anything else.
nothing wrong with torx fastners they have a greater tool fastner load area than an allen key,the problem here was the failure to apply heat and or poor quality tool used for removal
Bendy toy
Registered user
My issue with Torx is how easy they are to use the wrong size bit. I now always try the next size up before trying in anger. Socket hex never have that problem.
That area of course never gets wet or salty (yeah right) so don't use a stainless faster it's place. Stainless will react with aluminium and seize up.
That area of course never gets wet or salty (yeah right) so don't use a stainless faster it's place. Stainless will react with aluminium and seize up.
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