Removing beak & rear panel

[Steve B]

I have the Std 1150 and after getting the ADV tank I'm close to deciding on a new paint scheme.
Removing the tank and side panels are no issue but how complicated is it to remove the beak and rear panel (wheel arch)?
I've had a look around the beak and apart from the indicator stalks I'm not sure if anything else is attached. I mean if I remove the bolts that attach the beak does the clocks unit stay in place? And finally how easy is it to remove the wheel arch thing? Looks like it's attached in places by clips. I assume the rear luggage rack has to come too?
Any help or suggestions appreciated.

Steve B

 

[Colban]

I'm doing the same upgrade,but have acquired a s/h beak and back bit.
Looking at the new one the beak has 6 small screws to come out as well as the indicators.
2 either side underneath the indicators (looking from below) and
1 either side above the indicators,about 20mm below the highest point of the beak (screws in from the inside).Good luck.

 

[Steve B]

Thanks mate.
My biggest concern is taking it all apart and forgetting how to put it back together again

Steve B

 

[Bigtwin]

Thanks mate.
My biggest concern is taking it all apart and forgetting how to put it back together again

Steve B

No More Nails - sorted

 

[Steve B]

No More Nails - sorted

So if I have any bits left over...just glue them somewhere?

Steve B

 

[Nasty1]

Thanks mate.
My biggest concern is taking it all apart and forgetting how to put it back together again

Steve B

If your serious take some digital pic's of the process as a step by step reminder.

Adie

 

[Steve B]

If your serious take some digital pic's of the process as a step by step reminder.

Adie

Good idea

Still not sure what is attached to where before I start.

Steve B

 

[Hay Ewe]

I think it looks simple but....

for the indicators, you have to disconnect them at the bulb area and pull the wires out of the bolts that hold them in place and then remove the indicators.

There are some torx screw under neath and two tricky ones above the indicator nuts. these are tricky as I find you cant turn the torx key too much, takes for ever.

There isnt too much to it but it is a bit fiddily.

When doing it back up, the two little screws (the difficult ones), be care full how you do them, the screw into two brass inserts and both of mine have come detached from the plastic so they are not holding it place so well any more.

As for the rear plastic, if you undo the two bolts that hold the pillion grap hopp on, the plastic will drop under the weight of its self and the number plate bracket thing. i think there are two or four screws after that. IIRC there are also two hex screws at the aft edge of the tool tray that do something here.

if you have thought about doign this Job and already looked, I am sure that you are capable of figguring it out...

Hay Ewe