Removing R1100gs handlebars and grips

  • Thread starter Thread starter ODO
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ODO

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Hi,

A quick question on something which is not obvious from the various manuals:

Firstly - is the handlebar on a R1100GS in three pieces - a center piece and two end pieces - in other words do the end of the bars, after the 'groove' which is just before the levers etc, come away from the center part of the handlebar ?

Secondly, how do I get the heated grips off. I peel back the grip, remove the screw, but still the grip does not seem to want to move. Do I need to cut the rubber grip off and replace it ? I do realsie I need to disconnect the heated handlebar wires but these do not seem to be what is stopping the grips sliding off (bar ends, mirror, guards etc removed have been removed).

The reason I am doing all this is because I want to repaint the center of the bars which have become corroded.

Thanks for any help!

ODO.
 
The handlebar is three parts combined,but it comes off as one piece...IYKWIM.

The grips are retained by small clamping screws just under the inner 'flange'.


The heater wires are terminated in barbed push-in terminals on a block just behind the headstock....I found it best to leave enough length on the wires near the block for a soldered joint,and cut the wires in order to remove the grips.
 
You may have trouble getting the grips off because the bars corrode and expand underneth, causing the grips to stick.
 
Thanks for the replies.

My grips are stuck hard when I undo the little screw under the inner end of the grip so it looks like I will have to use brute force or cut them. If I go for the latter is it going to be expensive to replace them and the heated grips ?

On the handlebar question, is there any way to remove the outer ends wihout removing the center piece, if that makes sense ?

Cheers,

ODO
 
ODO said:
Thanks for the replies.

My grips are stuck hard when I undo the little screw under the inner end of the grip so it looks like I will have to use brute force or cut them. If I go for the latter is it going to be expensive to replace them and the heated grips ?

On the handlebar question, is there any way to remove the outer ends wihout removing the center piece, if that makes sense ?

Cheers,

ODO


Yep....very expensive for new parts.....you may find reasonable used ones after a while...it took me a while when I rebuilt one of my 1100`s.

If you only want to respray the bars,why not leave the left hand grip on ???

Just mask over the clutch lever clamp assembly.....you`ll only need to remove the switchgear.....or even keep that on and unplug it from the loom.


The outer parts of the handlebars will be next to impossible to remove,as there`s a kind of rubber shock absorber inside...if you look,you can pivot the outer parts very slightly up and down....

Why do you want to separate the parts ???? :nenau
 
Before you go any further,you do know there are TWO screws holding the grip on.One on the top,and one on the underside.
 
I did say 'screws'......but didn`t say the exact location by angle,torque setting and type of head....obviously I forgot what site I was on for a moment :D
 
Ah,you did,but he only said screw,so I thought I'd point it out again,just in case.

I will spend tonight,standing in the corner as a small way of saying sorry to you.

Please accept my humble apologies for posting such a hideous gaff.

I am truley very deeply sorry.

Now feck off fish breath :D
 
Thanks again guys - I did miss that there are two screws per grip so very happy to have it pointed out !

I don't really have to take the bars apart, it just seemed a nice easy way to do it initially ! I probbably will just paint them with the ends masked now as you say.

I was expecting this to be one of the easy jobs as I spruce the bike up a bit. I guess I was wrong so I'd imagine this will not be my last question ...

ODO
 
I'm all for people doing their own work - but please have a workshop/haynes manual to read first.

Saves everyone a whole lot of time and effort . IMHO ( before i get shouted at) :D
 
TARKA,what did I say,huh,what did I say.Me,only trying to help,and you jump down my throat.Well read it and weep sonny jim,he didn't know about the other screw after all.

Tarka's a tosser
Tarka's a tosser
Tarka's a tosser

OOooooo,you are sooooo dead at play time :bounce1 :clap :bounce1 :clap
 
Steptoe said:
I'm all for people doing their own work - but please have a workshop/haynes manual to read first.

Saves everyone a whole lot of time and effort . IMHO ( before i get shouted at) :D


Can`t you make that a 'sticky' at the top of the Forum,Steppers ? :thumb

No offence meant towards ODO,and I`m amongst the first to offer help and advice to people,but when you look at the amount of what oil / what tyre pressure / how do I remove my oil filter etc etc type questions,it does wear a bit thin after a while...all for the want of a few minutes reading a manual.
 
Vern said:
TARKA,what did I say,huh,what did I say.Me,only trying to help,and you jump down my throat.Well read it and weep sonny jim,he didn't know about the other screw after all.

Tarka's a tosser
Tarka's a tosser
Tarka's a tosser

OOooooo,you are sooooo dead at play time :bounce1 :clap :bounce1 :clap



:rob :rob Yeah well......you win... :D

As I said....maybe I forgot what site I was posting on..... :o

:dabone
 
Hmmm - looks like us new guys aren't the only ones who need to check the manuals before posting ...

The Haynes manual clearly mentions only one screw (or the one published in 2000 does anyway), so once again thanks for pointing out there should be two !!!! I checked and the Clymer manual does say screws plural so I guess I will have to read everything twice in future.

Any advice on a better GS specific manual - both the above cover quite a few models and I think details get a bit lost. Certainly I have seen better Haynes manauls in the past. Is there anything other than Haynes and Clymer ?
 


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