removing the fuel tank from a 1200GSA..

  • Thread starter Thread starter Terzikat
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Terzikat

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Anyone know what's involved in taking the fuel tank off a 1200GSA? Christmas arrived early and I've got a garmin power cable to run from the clocks back to the battery.:D

Any advice on removing/replacing the tank much appreciated:confused: :confused:
 
You don't need to take the tank off. Just remove one of the side panels and route the cable between the top plastic bit and the tank. I'll be doing the same tomorrow.
 
I had some clear reinforced plastic tube that I used on the water system on the boat, cut a length off and shoved it down the lefthand side of the tank. It goes down easily and if you push a stiff wire down it you can position it easily exactly where you want it.
The tube is around 20mm I think and for sale everywhere, any stiff bit of hose would do I guess.
If you want I can take pics of the its position. Takes all of 5 minutes to place the tube and fit the Garmin cable.
 
Oy...there`s the 1200 Forum for this kind of thing :rob :rob

Where`s the bladdy Moderator ???
 
Thanks for the replies:)

I'm interested in your water pipe approach Shenzi. Would be grateful for some photo's:rolleyes:
 
i used a bit of twin and earth to run a gps cable down the LHS which is much easier to do than on the right. go down the front frame tube & back above the injector IIRC :)

careful which screws go where when replacing the panels. all are pointed, but some are a bit longer than others & will screw into the tank etc. if replaced wrongly ;)
 
i should point out, i only used the twin & earth as a "mouse" to pull the proper cable through.

i'm not that big a bodger :rolleyes:
 
It only takes about 15 - 20 minutes to take the fuel tank off. You can then make a proper job of it.

Remove the connectors and tubes from the fuel pump and the jet pump on each side of the fuel tank after removing the plastic side covers.

Remove the two front locating bolts from under the above plastic side covers

Remove the anodised side panels

Remove the screws connecting the top tank panel to the beak.

Remove the countersunk headed bolts on the bottom /sides of the tank (hex not torx)

Lift the tank off by raising at the rear and pulling back and up - (less fuel in the tank makes this easier).

The job is the same as the 1200GS apart from where the fuel and jet pumps are located.

I don't have any photos but if you have any problems understanding the above (I am a Geordie :D ) give me a pm
 
But dont trap the throttle cable when replacing the tank otherwise it'll feel stiff in your right hand
 
I'll take some tomorrow, PM me an email address.

:rob Me too! Can you post the picis here? I too will be dismanteling my GSA tomorrow to run a new GPS powercable to the battery! Looks like a lot of GSA are going under the knife tomorrow!
 
while you're there, run a power line in for the forward mounted auxiliary socket you'll be fitting later, or you'll have to do the job twice DAMHIK :banghead:
 
Thanks for all the replies. I've got as far as fitting the motorrad concepts mount (top bit of kit) and getting the display lined up in the right place. I'll tackle the power feed later (collared to go christmas shopping now!):mad:

Cheers..............
 
Thanks for all the replies. I've got as far as fitting the motorrad concepts mount (top bit of kit) and getting the display lined up in the right place. I'll tackle the power feed later (collared to go christmas shopping now!):mad:

Cheers..............

HAHA :D best of luck

and Merry Christmas to you all
 
Fitted the power cable last night. Turned out I didn't need to remove the tank, just the tank cover, tank side cover (RH) and upper and lower side panels. This gave me plenty enough access to route the cable safely away from anything sharp, hot or moving.:)

Interestingly all the fasteners I undid were bone dry and the ones on the tank filler were showing signs of dissimilar metal corrosion (bike is 3 months old):mad:
 
the ones on the tank filler were showing signs of dissimilar metal corrosion (bike is 3 months old):mad:

Just wait till you get water acting as an electrolyte between the black plastic alternator belt cover mounting screws and the engine front cover. Best take out the steel screws one at a time, dip the threads in something like 'star brite' or 'duralac' and then refit into the alloy cover.

Prevention is much better than cure, my third front engine cover has been corrosion free for a year now (touch wood).

Try here for details:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53428&highlight=star+brite
 


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