Removing the gearbox ( now head gasket replacement )

[Kenny]

Brain fade again re my 1987 R80g/s ....I want to lube the splines of the gearbox input splines to give me a smooth clutch operation.....the manual says I have to remove engine bolts to enable it to move forward in order to remove the gearbox.....is this so?
I havn't removed a gearbox for about six years now but I'm sure I didn't loosen / move the actual engine to do so !!! Hopefully I can pull the gearbox back a little so I can get some special lube onto the splines ( I think I have the correct white grease in the garage ) and save a full removal...can this be done in situ?

 

[lurcher]

Gearbox can be removed with engine in place but it is best to take the clutch arm of and with a bit of wrigling it will cone out. Just done it!

 

[Deleted Member MS]

Ditto to above, just done it myself too, and many times before.

 

[Kenny]

THanks Guys, thought that was how I'd done it last time !!

Laying prone on the floor the other day..what a bitch getting that clutch arm back on again !! I'll have the use of a ramp this time so that'll be OK.

Just wondering if it is worthwhile ( as I only want to lube the input splines of the gearbox ) to leave back wheel/shaft/gearbox all connected up (remove said clutch arm ) and pull back the entire gumminses to hopefully reveal a gap big enough to clean clutch (clutch cleaner spray ) and then lube the spines....would save an awful lot of work just to lube the splines!

 

[(RIP) Proff]

Laying prone on the floor the other day..what a bitch getting that clutch arm back on again !! I'll have the use of a ramp this time so that'll be OK.

Just wondering if it is worthwhile ( as I only want to lube the input splines of the gearbox ) to leave back wheel/shaft/gearbox all connected up (remove said clutch arm ) and pull back the entire gumminses to hopefully reveal a gap big enough to clean clutch (clutch cleaner spray ) and then lube the spines....would save an awful lot of work just to lube the splines!

I usually slacken swingarm bearings and slide monolever back, gives you chance to check the little feckers as well..
Do make sure you set the clearances correctly when you reassemble the S/A bearings

Why do you need to lie down ?? I thought you were only ickle and could walk underneath an airhead on it's centerstand

 

[Kenny]

Stand by your phone..that is a heightest remark !!!

So..can I pull the lot back to see the splines just for lubing ?

 

[lurcher]

Just take the s/a of as a unit It might be a hassle but is quicker than fu**ing around with limited clearance. New coupling bolts?

 

[John Armstrong]

Out of interest, and never having done it before, is this what you're doing:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/spline/

 

[Kenny]

Yup...new stretch bolts should be here Tuesday..a must ( don't care what anyone else thinks ) so I'm prepared to do it all if needed...but just being lazy and going to try lubing without all the dismantling...................................but if needs must ......





JUst asking in case anyone has lubed the splines without complete removal of the gearbox

 

[Kenny]

Out of interest, and never having done it before, is this what you're doing:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/spline/

Nice one John.....just wanting to confirm it

 

[John Armstrong]

Nice one John.....just wanting to confirm it

Glad to help. Even if it is oly with a link

They need to have a look at their LH throttle cable too

 

[Kenny]

OK...spent the best part of the day sorting the clutch out on my g/s. Went to Verns as he has a bike ramp and makes good coffee

The cruix of this epistle is that I fecked up ( well Motorworks..actually BWM did ).

So...left the shaft on and loosened the gearbox and pulled it backwards so I could see the input shaft ( as post immediately above ). All well and good except the shaft looked in splendid condition !!! OK..we decided to remove the driveshaft ( as per Lurchers recommendation ) and do it properly. Took out the gearbox and all was well..even the clutch pushrod was free and easy!!! Gupl...took the clutch out ( cost me a vanilla custard slice did that ) and dismantled the clutch....all back ( temporarily ) together again and the lever was still feckin far to tight to pull Did it all again...still no result ( even Rob Farmer wouldn't call us back )

As it happended I had another old blue G/S at the workshop ( and I hate to say it but Vern suggested we swop cables and lever over from bike to bike )..........and it worked !!! The new BWM OE cable was knackered...not when in a straight line but when in a gentle curve it was tight as a nuns crutch !!! All that work ( and a vanilla slice ) for nothing...the cable I took off when I bought the bike was knackered so I bought a new cable and lubed everything...and it turns out the new OE cable was also goosed

Bike absolutely superb now...with lowered footrests fitted as well

Well at least I know everything is well greased at the backend now !!!!

The old blue G/S is sitting in the corner awaiting fitting of her new fairing/clock and other little goodies....but will have to wait for her clutch cable after I've moaned to Motorworks tomorrow

Now I need to lay down..........

 

[Garry H]

One of the best mods you can do to a Airhead clutch to make it lighter is fit a Venhill featherlite clutch cable...
Get yourself one from Motorworks Kenny it will be even lighter...
More expensive then the BMW one but well worth the extra

 

[Rob Farmer]

still feckin far to tight to pull Did it all again...still no result ( even Rob Farmer wouldn't call us back )

Didn't know you called Kenny. My mobiles flat and I was in the garage myself most of the day.

 

[Ogmios]

Big Thanks to Kenny and to all the contributors to this thread

all very helpful.
the info, explanations, the links and the pics.

makes understanding So much easier for this particular Airhead.

~~

 

[Kenny]

Didn't know you called Kenny. My mobiles flat and I was in the garage myself most of the day.

Blame Vern, he called you as we had the clutch on the bench and all seemed spot on and we couldn't figure out why the damned clutch was so heavy !! I don't know, he can't even make a correct distress call

Gary read your post a tad to late...on its way back for a straight swop to Motorworks so I can get the blue one back on the road

Now...just the offside barrel/crankcase oil leak to cure !!

 

[Kenny]

A pleasure ( at my humiliation ) to be of assitance...just ordered the gasket set etc so will be sorting out the offside strip down next week or so..I'll remember to take some pics.
Incidently parts needed to do one side of an r80g/s are:-

gudgeon pin circlip ( X1 )
cylinder head gasket ( X1 )
pushrod rubber gromet ( X2 )
barrel stud O ring ( X2 )
barrel base O ring ( X1 )

Handy to have a Vern to assist as well ( I need copius amounts of coffee )

Big Thanks to Kenny and to all the contributors to this thread

all very helpful.
the info, explanations, the links and the pics.

makes understanding So much easier for this particular Airhead.

~~

 

[Ogmios]

Grease is the word...

sneaky lube question;

Gentlemen,
(and i use that term loosely)

may i ask the collective -
what grease is best on the clutch pushrod and bearing assembly?

t.i.a.
~~

 

[John Armstrong]

sneaky lube question;

And as the cat is out of the bag what grease did you use on your splines? And is it good stuff for the para drive shaft ones?

TVMIA

Ps seen it mentions H***a moly 60

 

[Kenny]

I have a tube of the genuine BMW white spline grease...but our friends at M/Bins do this one ( as recommended )....

OPTIMOL T WHITE PASTE, CLUTCH/GBOX SPLINES (BMW SPECIFIED) 100grm TUBE ( part no 95815 )

Yup...does the para as well