Removing the gearbox ( now head gasket replacement )

[Ogmios]

yeahbut...
(o.k - i'm fussy/lazy )

woss the spec of that?
gimme numbers! - low temp / high temp / moly or poly or wolly or wotever the f*ck etc.

i wanna to buy local / not import from furrin shores and deal with that funny money you use / post and packing for a dinky tube / summink i can git here!

anna nother thing - why has my keyboard developed a cockney accent

*cough*
Thank you.

 

[Ogmios]

notes to self;

1./ never post in a hurry at the end of a sh*te day in work.
2./ read the effing previous posts TWICE - so you only have to post ONE reply - not TWO....
the second to go.... "Oops"
so it's this sorta thing is it?

OPTIMOL T WHITE PASTE, CLUTCH/GBOX SPLINES (BMW SPECIFIED) 100grm TUBE ( part no 95815 )

Thanks.

 

[Kenny]

No problem...just waiting for you to sober up !!

 

[toadjam]

perfectly good qustion

go on go on go on , wats da spec .

tell the man .



got told its the same as molygrease .

shetlands national sport

 

[Kenny]

I've sent the tube off to the forensic laboratories in Chorley..hopefully they can tell us what is in the tube !! Actually, easier to order from the dealer..costs a whopping £4.75 and lasts forever !!!

 

[Ogmios]

problem solved.

i have solved my problem

.....

it was the cable not the pushrod release mech....

before yiz all take the pith;

~ the cables about 3 months old.
~ it's an (alleged) "featherlite". yeah sure it is
~ it took a severe seeing to with a hydraulic cable oiler to pump the crap out of it. and when i did get it cleared of muck, it came out looking like moly grease

weird - never had anything like this in mumble mumble years of riding Bikes.

thanks for the (kick up the) ass istance fellow Tossers.


~~
Og,
type louder - i'm hard of thinking!

 

[John Armstrong]

So thats two to bad clutch cables and nil gearbox removals required.

Best I stop even thinking it might be a "good" idea to change my clutch cable

 

[Kenny]

My replacement replacement cable arrived from Motorworks the other day...so fitting it this Wednesday...watch this space!!!

 

[Vern]

Handy to have a Vern to assist as well ( I need copius amounts of coffee )[/QUOTE]

and knock up loverly little bushes for the clutch lever when you've gone home

 

[Kenny]

and knock up loverly little bushes for the clutch lever when you've gone home

Nipples.....

 

[Ogmios]

Nipples.....

... and bushes

o.k - now we've found the level of Airheaders;

nipples.
bushes
and
a hand job on a clutch . .

 

[Kenny]

Barrel oil leak etc

OK, as promised...brief write-up on how to change head gasket/pushrod tubes/base O ring etc etc.

Pic 1 remove downpipe. I was lucky as just the o/s downpipe came away nicely ( I had loosened everything off a few days earlier ).
The bash plate had to be lowered to access/remove the exhaust.
Set piston to TDC prior to removing rocker gear etc being removed and have a small tray to catch a little oil when rocker cover initially removed.

Pic 2 is being sneaked upon by Vern !!! Pic shows carb tied back and the stud nuts (X4)and head/barrel nuts ( X2 ) can be removed. These are 15mm nuts.

Pic 3 shows rockers and pushrods removed (just pull the pushrod tubes out). Keep everything in the order they are removed.

Pic 4 shows head now pulled off ( so obviously you need a replacement head gasket every time ).

 

[Kenny]

...continued....

Pic 5 shows the problem of this oil leak. Last person to have the barrel off accidently nipped the oil O ring ( top left ) and used way to much gasket sealant on re-build !!
Incidently, leave the piston in the barrel and remove the gudgeon pin circlip and remove barrel/piston as one. ( Then accidently pull piston out of the barrel whislt on the bench )

Pic 6 shows new pushrods tube rubbers fitted and the piston still in the barrel. Rubbers stuck fast when being removed so gingerly levered/pulled/cursed off !!

Pic 7 shows all back together again as I forgot to take more pics ( oops )

Pic 8 All finished and my two bikes can relax in the sun

Hope this helps explain a few mysteries to someone

 

[Kenny]

...and a thanks for the use of his facilities

 

[Voyager]

Useful thread, Kenny.

Like you, I leave the piston in the barrel and use a hot air gun to warm it up before removing the gudgeon pin.

I have the correct size piston ring compressor but its practically impossible to use it in situ on the airhead set-up.

A nice set of stainless pushrod tubes must be on your shopping list

Bob.

 

[Redboots]

I have the correct size piston ring compressor but its practically impossible to use it in situ on the airhead set-up.

I just use a big Jubilee clip. Works every time

John

 

[Voyager]

I just use a big Jubilee clip. Works every time

John

Its a while since I had a R100 piston out . . . Does a standard width Jubilee clip cover all the rings or does it have to be wider ?

My ring compressor is a very broad strip of blued steel with a ratchet tightener that requires an Allen Key. There isn't space below the barrel to remove it

It is OK when dropping pistons in from above a block (then attach the con rod to the crank afterwards). Works on car engines with the sump removed


Bob.

 

[Redboots]

My ring compressor is a very broad strip of blued steel with a ratchet tightener that requires an Allen Key. There isn't space below the barrel to remove it

I have one of those... the standard jubilee works well. Its just wide enough to get the top ring and half the oil ring... soooo much easier than the ring compressor.

John

 

[(RIP) pastyman]

Also worth mentioning that you should make sure you dont alow the piston to turn round in the barrel and also be particularly careful when replacing the gudgeon pin circlips. ( I would now always use new sinceone came off one of mine and jiggered the bore)

 

[BamBam]

We use this cheap 'laser' oil filter remover from Halfords, as it's narrow there's enough room to get all the rings in the cylinder before hitting the crankcase