Repairing cut wires on 1200

darkhorse

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Managed to cut through a number of wires up the right hand side of bars last night :blast which has resulted in indicators, abs / servo etc not working :blast:blast:blast

Maybe a silly question but given the Canbus system is there anything I need to be aware of, or can I just rejoin the cut wires and solder together and insulate?

Would assume it would be best to disconnect the battery first?

Would the system need resetting in any way as know doubt a fault will have been detected?
 
No need to disconnect the battery to solder wires.

A fault would have been logged if the ignition was switched on.
Repair the wiring, turn the ignition back on and the fault will clear but will be logged on the computer for reference.

Which can be cleared easy enough
 
No need to disconnect the battery to solder wires.

A fault would have been logged if the ignition was switched on.
Repair the wiring, turn the ignition back on and the fault will clear but will be logged on the computer for reference.

Which can be cleared easy enough

you mean you know about these newfangled 1200 things :eek:
 
No need to disconnect the battery to solder wires.

A fault would have been logged if the ignition was switched on.
Repair the wiring, turn the ignition back on and the fault will clear but will be logged on the computer for reference.

Which can be cleared easy enough

cheers, wish me luck as not great with a soldering iron
 
I believe Stewart H has a good line of CanBus products in the offing.

There's rumour of him having a big stand selling such at the Hograost.



Darkhorse - seriously - if you're not confident at soldering then find someone who is. Especially if you've chopped ABS wires.....
 
They are scrawny little wires too, not the easiest to solder, but at least they are all colour coded.

Not the job for a colourblind person with shaky hands though.
 
Don't forget you need the new Canbus solder, which has digital flux. Costs about ten times as much as normal solder - I have some for sale :)
 
No need to disconnect the battery to solder wires.

A fault would have been logged if the ignition was switched on.
Repair the wiring, turn the ignition back on and the fault will clear but will be logged on the computer for reference.

Which can be cleared easy enough

I would always disconnect the supply (battery) when soldering on any electronic system - you cannot guarantee that your soldering iron tip is fully isolated from its electrical supply, both in terms of leakage current and voltage.

Also you can never be sure that the ignition switch has removed power from all the electronic circuitry - it certainly doesn't on the 1200.


Always safer to remove the battery.
 
I would always disconnect the supply (battery) when soldering on any electronic system - you cannot guarantee that your soldering iron tip is fully isolated from its electrical supply, both in terms of leakage current and voltage.

Also you can never be sure that the ignition switch has removed power from all the electronic circuitry - it certainly doesn't on the 1200.


Always safer to remove the battery.

What if dave just unplugs the switch :D
 
don't just rejoin the wires as they may come apart again. Splice in a short section of new wire to give a bit of slack so that the joints don't come under any stress
 
Am I the only one wondering how the fek he managed to cut the wires:nenau

Anyhow i agree with disconecting the battery it's dead easy on a 1200 and might save hassel later, I've two good quality (well expensive-ish) soldering irons that have a voltage at the tip, one of them looks like a little arc welder when I try and solder items on the boat, 240v comes from the inverter so I can't disconnect the batteries before soldering unless i'm really quick:D

Shep
 
What if dave just unplugs the switch :D


Just checked the wiring diagram.

The battery on the 1200 connects directly to the central control electronics - the ignition switch just sends a signal to the control unit to perform its functions; so switching off the ignition still leaves the control unit powered.

Even if you remove the ignition switch and all its connections it will make no difference - some if not all of the electronics control circuit will remained powered.
 


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