Replacement cables

[Green Boy]

Hi,

Am thinking of replacing the throttle and clutch cables on my '04 1150gsa as I think they've never been changed.

I see there was a mod to the throttle cable fitting for all bikes pre 12/04. My questions are:

1. Is there an easy way to check if the mod has been done so I don't have to buy any unecessary bits.
2. Is it possible to do this without having to re-balance the TB's?

Thanks.

 

[Aidan1150]

You won't need a clutch cable as the 1150 is hydraulic.

I'd say that you would have to re-balance the throttle bodies after fitting new cables.

 

[Green Boy]

You won't need a clutch cable as the 1150 is hydraulic.

I'd say that you would have to re-balance the throttle bodies after fitting new cables.

Ah yes. What I meant to type was fast idle. Thanks for the thought.

 

[Bendy toy]

Ah yes. What I meant to type was fast idle. Thanks for the thought.

Is there really any point to changing throttle cables? I have a '97 Yamaha that's done 73K and while the clutch cable has recently become rough the throttles are fine. I also have a 1976 Suzuki that's still got original throttle cables.

unless they are damaged, lubricate them with silicone oil and put them back. Dont use ordinary oil it can affect the nylon lining.

 

[davegs]

Is there really any point to changing throttle cables? I have a '97 Yamaha that's done 73K and while the clutch cable has recently become rough the throttles are fine. I also have a 1976 Suzuki that's still got original throttle cables.

unless they are damaged, lubricate them with silicone oil and put them back. Dont use ordinary oil it can affect the nylon lining.

It is worth it recommended by BMW I'd done about 80,000 on my 1150 and they frayed internally and I couldent shut down. RAC rescue to home. No warning started on a longish run out of the blue.

 

[MikeO]

I've put three sets in my (158K) 1150 Adv now. Gets easier every time you do it.

On each occasion I was surprised by how much freer the throttle felt - it tightens up slowly and you don't notice it. The second set I took out had a bad fray on the LH throttle cable, which would have broken eventually.

The splitter box attracts a lot of dust & dirt (I'd done a lot of miles in dusty conditions - hence the need to change them more frequently). BMW advise that lubrication is a no-no - and I'd be inclined to agree as it seems a good way to make a grinding paste inside a lined bowden cable. I'm sure others here know better though...

Mike

PS As regards the mod - go to Motorworks site and do a search for part number CAA91990 - it has quite a good pic of it and you should be able to tell if you've got a post-mod bike or not.

PPS For what it's worth, I did a pictorial guide on the job here - with an added bit from MikeP on the modified part (which wasn't released the first time I did it).

 

[Bendy toy]

With frayed cables I'd be thinking lubrication IS an issue. Presumably the sleeves and cables are unlined.

While the cables seem fine, the issue on my Diversion is the linkage at the carburettor end with dirt, wear, rust etc getting everywhere. They do however have curved metal tubes at areas where a tight radius bend is needed and the cable ends are protected with concertina shape rubber boots.

The clutch of course gets much more hammer but its only just started to show signs of trouble. The inner isnt frayed (yet) but (presumably) the lining has failed so its not smooth any more. +70,000 and 15 years isnt too bad I guess.

 

[Grizzly]

Worthwhile

Hi,
Firstly, I'm not sure what the relevance of Yamaha or Suzuki cables have to your questions

Anyway, it's easily to see if you have the modded type fitted:-

The original set up used a curved plastic guide as part of the twistgrip/switch assy to guide the cable from it's vertical exit from twistgrip into the horizontal line of the handlebar.
The MODIFIED type has no curved plastic guide as part of switch assy, instead the new cable has a steel tube type elbow at the twistgrip end.

Hope that makes sense. It made a huge difference when I did it - original cables wre still working fine but when I fitted the new ones with mod it feltlike the bike had another 20 bhp 'cos the throttle felt so free & light - unfortunately the 20 bhp was just an illusion & once your used to the new throttle action the 20bhp "disappears"

As Aiden said, you WILL need to do a throttle body balance - but that's a lot easier that you might be thinking? - and nothing to worry about. biggest difficulty with the cable job will be getting the splitter box out and in to change all four cables that enter it.

I think I changed mine at about 100K and it's just reached 160K now.

Cheers.............................Grizzly

 

[Green Boy]

Thanks all. Will check out what I've got and refer to the Motorworks website.

Just as a thought and as I don't have a harmoniser, can anyone recommend an fool proof way of balancing the TB's. Apologisies of this has been asked (many times) before but am keen to do it but a little unsure how to do it without f*****g it up.

For reference, I've got a reasonable grip on mechanical stuff (changed FD bearings etc so happy to get amongst it if anyone can point me in the right direction.

 

[Aidan1150]

You could make yourself a manometer which will do the job for you. There should also be a "how to" somewhere in this section too.

One of these is a manometer;