replacement front engine cover.

ianm00 said:
Nutter,

Thanks for that. I cannot see a problem yet but then only had mine since march.

Ian
It took 12months for the problem to develop on mine.
 
ShaunT279 said:
Mine's was covered in fs365 from the start and it still happened, suppose you could change to stainless bolts but they would have to be the correct grade could help.

Anyone tried Nippy's handbar risers? What do you think?
Where would you get stainless bolt from for the 1200gs cover?????
 
Shep said:
When the cover was replaced, the dealer f****d up a bearing that supports the cam,
How did they manage that?? I thought the cover was just a cover and didn't support any internal components?????
 
Hi GSmonkey

Dunno, I never had a look, they mentioned, cam, bearing, seal, cover, out of stock, germany, bracknell, loan bike all in one sentence.

Me, i'm just a simple engraver, me know nothing!!!

Seems OK now though.

Regards Shep
 
TheJoker said:
Any chance of piccies of this damage - so I know what to look for... :rolleyes: :eek:


Thanks! :beerjug:
Piccies as promised:

1. The Rot in its full glory:
rot1.JPG


2. From t'other side:
rot2.JPG


3. With cover removed. Note: The stuff behind the cover is a nice sponge......guess what is soaks up.....salty water.:
rot3.JPG


4. As you can see, the rot starts behind the sponge:
rot4.JPG


NICE:mad:
 
Thanks for the piccies. That's just how mine looked. I think the machined area that my dealer was talking about is under that nice sponge. Bad design? I think so.
 
This just confirms that BMW build quality remains terrible.

My 02 1150 looks like a piece of crap ... front yoke, fork legs look 20 years old.

These are only cosmetic problems mind, the bike is superb. But I'd hoped they would sort this out on the 1200, especially at nearly £10k a pop.

My next bike will probably be a mint condition 1100, those things are properly put together, ie if some thought and effort has gone into the build.


:(
 
can you take the sponge out so it could be treated or wrapped up in cling film / plastic to stop it holding water???
:confused:
 
Not quite sure what the sponge does.....probably just acoustic insulation, in which case it could be simply removed. You could then treat the area with some wax stuff and leave it.

I'll wait 'till I have the new one fitted and see if the design is updated in any way.
 
When i had a look a my 05 bike it is not fitted with sponge behind it its just empty so greased round the bolts & put it back
 
Thanks for the pictures Munkeeh... That's quite bad really... looks like some parts of my girlfriends 12yo Kwakasakawaki...

Better check mine now :eek:
 
I think anybody with a non-rotted front plate should immediately take the front cover off and remove the sponge and get some grease/wax on the area. The sponge is only glued on to the (painted) front plate.
 
GSmonkey said:
Piccies as promised:
1. The Rot in its full glory:
.

...etc; I love this forum. I just found the same fault starting at the bottom-right of my plastic engine cover, and the paint is also flaking around the Torx nuts that go up the right hand side of the engine casing (ie: The rightmost nuts visible in http://homepage.ntlworld.com/cuell/Rot/rot1.JPG )

Oddly, the everything on the left side is just dandy. Maybe the ones nearest the kerb get exposed to more salt?

I'll pop down to SPC this week, see what they say... My 6000 service is due soon.
 
I've had the replacement cover put on, so the job's a good 'un. Just got to open it up and look for the dreaded sponge:D
 
GSmonkey said:
I've had the replacement cover put on, so the job's a good 'un. Just got to open it up and look for the dreaded sponge:D

If, once it is replaced, I want to try to wax it or similar to help prevent recurrence, what should I use that would cope with the temperature and extremes?

Or is this another case of "ride, cool, wash, spray with (favourite goop du jour)" ?
 
Well I'm going to spray some old chain wax I've got hanging around on mine. It should hopefully stay on with the heat and should definately stop any rot.

Thats the plan.....
 
GSmonkey said:
Well I'm going to spray some old chain wax I've got hanging around on mine.

Ooh! Ooh! Tip of the day for Chain Wax: spray a little onto the underseat lock/catch mechanism on occasional times when you take off the main seat, eg: to get at the toolkit.

It makes future seat-removal/replacement a hell of a lot easier.

( yes, have also got a DRZ, so I still need chain wax :D )
 
Hello everyboddy,I am new on the forum,I came here by a link,from a french forum,so sorry for my poor english,but I hope I can be anderstood!!!If its not the case,let me know :)

In my opinion,about that foam ander the alternator cover,
is that to put this sort of foam(polyurethan)is the worth thing to do,(from the manufacturer)because,first af all,it is waterproof,I mean if their is some water traped ander it,it can not be evacuate by capilaryty effect,so even a small amont will stay here for a verry long time.

When riding,we produce heat,which ,in combination whith water,and maybe salt,is the best to help corrosion to do his job!

I dont know exactly the purpuse of that foam,but for me , It makes sens that it must be removed asap,so the fresh air can flow arond,keep it dry.In the oldest bikes(my last one was a R1150R),I never noticed any insulation like this.Accoustic?like in cars?I dont know,anyway,things who goes well dont need to be improved...sometime you want to do better,but the effect is the opposit!

So in conclusion,I would say,to prevent corrosion in this spot,the best is to take off that foam,once it is removed,the water cant stay here,so no need of wax,maybe just a thin film WD 40,that's it!
 


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