replacing flywheel

zdaveuk

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I need to replace the fylwheel on my 2002 1150gsa as the ring gear is worn badly
I have read ll the posts and tips from Steptoe on removing the drivetrain as a complete unit .
couple of questions
1 would it be a good idea to renew cluctch aswell at the same time 38000miles on bike

2 what about clutch flywheel markings do I replace in same postion as it was on old flywheel?

3 how tight are the bolts on flywheel will I need an impact driver ?

thanks for any info and tips
 
You can "split in middle" and don't have to take it all apart. As you are taking the clutch apart you can measure the plate... If you replace the clutch, the recommended way is to replace all of it... The flywheel on my 11GS came off OK but be careful of the shallow headed high torque bolts (recommended to replace). Get a decent socket and a long bar...:D Lock the flywheel with a long bolt or similar... The 11 flywheel has a tab to locate the correct position for assembly.

Probably good to have a close check of your gearbox input seal and rear crank seals at the same time but I think the recommendation is if they are OK then leave alone (sure I will be corrected if it's not:D):thumb
 
2 what about clutch flywheel markings do I replace in same postion as it was on old flywheel?

The flywheel has a locating dowel so you can't put it back in the wrong position.
 
I need to replace the fylwheel on my 2002 1150gsa as the ring gear is worn badly
I have read ll the posts and tips from Steptoe on removing the drivetrain as a complete unit .
couple of questions
1 would it be a good idea to renew cluctch aswell at the same time 38000miles on bike

2 what about clutch flywheel markings do I replace in same postion as it was on old flywheel?

3 how tight are the bolts on flywheel will I need an impact driver ?

thanks for any info and tips

1.At only 38K,the clutch should be OK;unless you like drag starts,wheelies and off-roading.If its shaggged,the whole lot has to be replaced.
2.Dont worry about clutch markings.Apparently they are dynamically balanced and the flywheel has a locating pin.
3.Use new flywheel bolts.Initially tighten to 40Nm,then angle-tighten another 32 degrees.
I needed to use an impact driver to get the old bolts out.
Check/moly your splines while you are in there.The g/box input shaft wears on the clutch friction plate.Clean the starter motor shaft/pinion as well.
 
Yep, there are new and wear limit measurement for the clutch plate thickness in manuals and on this forum in some of the articles you have read. Also a quick visual of the plate shows the depth on the recesses where it is rivetted together. If they are close to flush you need a new clutch.
 
Right so far so good gearbox removed all went straight forward

clutch is worn to the point where rivets are nearly flush, do I need to replace complete clutch or is it just friction plate?

As for the cause of the wear I had problems with starter motor and it has worn the teeth on the starter and some of the teeth on the flywheel

i will post photos of they soon
 
Replace whole clutch. The gist is that an early failure is virtually a cert if you don't. As you now know what the work is to get to it, you may as well do it all...

I doubt that many Oilheads have had flywheel wear so it will be worth posting a pic. I have seen it on an older Guzzi.
 
Clutch

Don't even think of replacing the friction plate only, this will last about 5000 miles have a look at links as this comes up regurly, get a complete kit from Motorworks new bolts MUST be used.
 
fly.jpg
only a few of the teeth have worn so bad that starter wont engage
fly2.jpg
the worn teeth are at bottom about 7 oclock position
starter.jpg
starter motor
 
Teeth

I know it's a stop gap but those starter teeth look like the problem rather than the ring. Why not just fit an exchange /s/h starter lot less mucking about,
though if you've already split the lump might as well take the plunge but that starter is well knackard.
Dave (stating the obvious!) GS
 
one step ahead of you there old chap I bought new starter and it does the same , just spins but not spinning the engine so not wanting to do the same to the new one I have bitten the bullet and stripped it
 
Like to thank everyone who posted tips and info and steptoe for his previous posts on gearbox removal found the info very helpfull. It is possible to replace gearbox and final drive in a oner even on your own as posted by steppers, even for someone who has never attempted anything like this before

Finally managed to get the bike back on the road after replacing flywheel and complete clutch as advised, only delay was with getting it delivered from Motorworks waiting on stock to come in , top guys :thumb2

The information and tips you receive on here are worth the annual subs alone :beerjug:

THANK YOU ALL :clap
 


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