Replacing ignition barrel

[colesyboy]

Just paid a visit to my 1150RT '04 whilst its held at police warehouse (waiting for release papers after it was nicked and then found)

The theives took out the ignition barrel so I need to get a new one and also replace the fuel tank lock.

Is it relatively plug and play or a PITA to replace these? I've seen a few on ebay, is it safe to buy only those advertised as for my bike (1150RT) or does the 1150GS, 1150R and 1150RS all fit?

Thanks for the help!!

 

[Wrigsby1]

Id be looking for a 2nd hand version via Motorworks, ebay etc... here's the original diagram and the barrel body 1 is 51252313183 and your loom wire 6 is 61322306361... Looks like you need the barrel complete and should be ok for the loom which detaches... Usual scrotes have de barrelled the switch to just turn the switch unit at the bottom with a screwdriver... Motorworks sell 2nd hand barrel with key and seem to have plenty of stock... Also they export or a least used to... Hopefully still do...
Filler cap is 16117685458 and used versions as well from above...
You may find a set on eBay etc or an EU breaker ..

 

[Wrigsby1]

Ps ... The barrel part seems the common number but the wires vary according to bike style re loom length...

 

[colesyboy]

Ps ... The barrel part seems the common number but the wires vary according to bike style re loom length...

Great thank you! It looks as though a single screw holds the barrel in place so then it just removing the old barrel and attaching the loom connector? Looks simple enough…

 

[colesyboy]

Id be looking for a 2nd hand version via Motorworks, ebay etc... here's the original diagram and the barrel body 1 is 51252313183 and your loom wire 6 is 61322306361... Looks like you need the barrel complete and should be ok for the loom which detaches... Usual scrotes have de barrelled the switch to just turn the switch unit at the bottom with a screwdriver... Motorworks sell 2nd hand barrel with key and seem to have plenty of stock... Also they export or a least used to... Hopefully still do...
Filler cap is 16117685458 and used versions as well from above...
You may find a set on eBay etc or an EU breaker ..

Pardon our interruption...

this should do the job?

 

[Wrigsby1]

Pardon our interruption...

this should do the job?

On the parts system there didn't seem to be any differences for the RT 1100/1150s of either single or twin spark... Same kit... The main job for you is removing the security screws that hold the barrel on ... The rest should be easy enough...

 

[colesyboy]

On the parts system there didn't seem to be any differences for the RT 1100/1150s of either single or twin spark... Same kit... The main job for you is removing the security screws that hold the barrel on ... The rest should be easy enough...

Ordered, thanks, now to find those mirrors in biarritz blue, that is proving to be a proper challenge.

 

[Steptoe]

Looks like you only need the barrel, with the leafs (or is it leaves ) . Insert the key and it slots home.
The bottom leaf holds in in place .
This is how you remove it for future reference- on the ignition barrel holder, look at the ridge that runs down the front .. about halfway down to the right of the ridge is a small hole.
To remove the ignition barrel insert the key, then a small pick into the hole by the ridge, the pick pushes the lower leaf (which locks and keeps the barrel in place ) back into the barrel, then you can pull out the barrel by the key .. you’ll soon get the hang of it once you’ve done it a couple of times,

 

[colesyboy]

Looks like you only need the barrel, with the leafs (or is it leaves ) . Insert the key and it slots home.
The bottom leaf holds in in place .
This is how you remove it for future reference- on the ignition barrel holder, look at the ridge that runs down the front .. about halfway down to the right of the ridge is a small hole.
To remove the ignition barrel insert the key, then a small pick into the hole by the ridge, the pick pushes the lower leaf (which locks and keeps the barrel in place ) back into the barrel, then you can pull out the barrel by the key .. you’ll soon get the hang of it once you’ve done it a couple of times,

So just get a barrel - follow your instructions and my own key will fit?

 

[Steptoe]

So just get a barrel - follow your instructions and my own key will fit?

You’ll need the leafs/wafers, you can buy them for your key.. cost pennie’s

 

[colesyboy]

So just get a barrel - follow your instructions and my own key will fit?

How about the fuel lock - they e buggered that up also - is there a similar option for that lock Neil?

 

[Steptoe]

How about the fuel lock - they e buggered that up also - is there a similar option for that lock Neil?

There are springs and other plastic shite in the fuel cap that’s likely to be missing, and it’s not easy to put together as it has to click shut and return etc

 

[Wrigsby1]

And the fuel cap looks worse than just a de-barrel... If you just get the cap make sure it unlocks again before you shut it... That would be a bugger...

 

[colesyboy]

And the fuel cap looks worse than just a de-barrel... If you just get the cap make sure it unlocks again before you shut it... That would be a bugger...

I found a complete replacement of barrel and housing and fuel cap lock - the whole she and with nee keys for 150 quid on fleabay.de - think that’s my easiest option,,,and the seat lock replacement.