Replacing Ignition Switch

[Kiwi_Mike]

My ignition switch has been playing up. The symptoms involve turning the key to the 'on' position and getting no response from the bike and a blank dash. Repeated attempts will usually yield a result but it has been getting worse and this morning it took 10 attempts.

I've read a number of threads and spoken to Vines and it seems my options are as follows;

- Second hand unit from motorworks £33 and fit it myself
- new unit from Vines £73 and 1 hour labour to fit (c£90)

The third, and my preferred option is to get a new unit and fit it myself however I cannot seem to find anywhere a definitive description of what this would involve and whether its a job that a novice like myself could manage. Looking at the bike and it seems there is probably enough room to get at the screws without having to remove the handlebars and the top yoke etc but I want to be sure before I start attempting to take it apart.

For now I've squirted a fair amount of contact cleaner (purchased yesterday from Maplin £3.99) and blasted the key hole with the wife's hairdryer for 5 minutes to try and dry it out which seems to have sorted it for now (it worked 7 times in a row) but I want to do a permanent fix, especially as I'm without breakdown cover until my insurance renews at the end of the month. And I will make sure that from now on I remove the key from the ignition when I clean the bike as I believe this may be what caused the issue.

Can anyone provide a link or a description of the steps required to replace the ignition switch please?

Cheers
Mike

 

[Kenny Rodkiss]

Part number 2 is where the micro switches are, it screws off actual key operated part.

 

[Kiwi_Mike]

So it is as simple as removing the two screws (9) and slipping it off? Isn't there a plug? Does number 7 need to be removed first?

If it is that simple I'm surprised that Vines quoted an hour's labour. They said you need to take the front of the bike apart.

Will give it a go, thanks for the help.

 

[Sot1200]

Removing the front panel( beak) will give better access. The two screws that hold the ignition (3) are security screws and may need a special tool. Furthermore you will need to match your current key to the new barrel

 

[RonnieG]

Just a thought.....

I had very similar symptoms about a year ago on my GSA and after a bit of research someone highlighted that if the gear position potentiometer plays up it can cause very similar symptoms with the ignition and dash as per detailed in this link ;

http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/index76db.html?fa=contentGeneric.nvxszdkebklxuaer&pageId=418303

I ended up just taking my potentiometer out, cleaned it, sprayed it with switch cleaner then put it back.

Maybe I have just been lucky but mine was certainly an easy fix and I have not had any issues with the dash or ignition since. (Hope that's not famous last words.......)

Good luck!

 

[Bendy toy]

I removed the ignition switch from my bike.

Part 7 is MUCH easier to remove if you remove the beak bodywork.
Screws 7 came off quite easily with a small Torx driver.
Part 2 is a separate switch module you might be able to keep the original lock.

The lock is attached with shear bolts. I loosened mine with a small cold chisel or you could slot the bolt top with a Dremel grinding disc. I replaced with hex socket cap screws. There is no access to unscrew them so I wasn't concerned about the security risk.

 

[patzx12]

You can recode the lock, its a bit fiddly. You move the plates around just like Vario locks but the ignition has a brass retaining rod that has to be removed.
Working from memory its years ago i did it.

 

[Kiwi_Mike]

I'm hoping I don't need a new lock, just the switch part at the bottom. Looks like I just need to remove number 7 then number 2 and I won't encounter any security bolts. Is the beak easy to remove?


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[TLSgazza]

I'm hoping I don't need a new lock, just the switch part at the bottom. Looks like I just need to remove number 7 then number 2 and I won't encounter any security bolts. Is the beak easy to remove?


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mine was doing the same as yours, don't listen to half if the stuff written above, I did mine in about 15 mins without removing any bodywork at all,
use the correct security torx bit in a socket with a long extension bar from below, unplug the electrical connector, then refit new switch, piece of piss to do,
you don't need to do anything with the part of the switch the key goes into,
I don't even remember taking off the bit marked #7

 

[Sgt Bilco]

Same as Gazza. I had teh same in the US, bought the knackerd switch which had just worn and fitted in about 15 mins.

 

[Kiwi_Mike]

Same as Gazza. I had teh same in the US, bought the knackerd switch which had just worn and fitted in about 15 mins.

Sounds easy (famous last words). Thanks for all the advice.

Have ordered a replacement switch (#2 above - £36 posted) from motorworks as my fix yesterday lasted less than a day and I'm back to crossing my fingers and praying each time I go to start the bike. I guess that is what puts the adventure in 'Adventure Bike'.

 

[Bendy toy]

Ive done the job both ways and found its worth making working space with the bodywork off. Not 100% necessary but the plastic is easy to remove/replace.

 

[TLSgazza]

Sounds easy (famous last words). Thanks for all the advice.

Have ordered a replacement switch (#2 above - £36 posted) from motorworks as my fix yesterday lasted less than a day and I'm back to crossing my fingers and praying each time I go to start the bike. I guess that is what puts the adventure in 'Adventure Bike'.

At least ours failed to switch on, a few people have reported the opposite, ignition switch won't turn off,
when I'd taken the old one off and compared the switch action I could feel it physically sticking,

 

[Kiwi_Mike]

I changed the switch this morning and the ignition is now working. The job took less than half an hour and I didn't remove any bodywork, although I recon removing the light and clocks (2 bolts and 3 plugs) would have made it a little easier.

All that is require is to remove number 7 and number 2 from the diagram above and you need to cut one zip tie which holds the wires onto the side of number 2. There are also two plugs which I removed first to give more access. All screws (8 and 9 in the diagram) are T10 torx and are not security screws so a normal torx driver works.

Thanks again for all the help and advice.



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[Kiwi_Mike]

Oh, and it's worth asking motorworks to include the screws with the replacement switch as they are very small and I managed to lose one while trying to attach the switch.


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[TLSgazza]

I changed the switch this morning and the ignition is now working. The job took less than half an hour and I didn't remove any bodywork, although I recon removing the light and clocks (2 bolts and 3 plugs) would have made it a little easier.

All that is require is to remove number 7 and number 2 from the diagram above and you need to cut one zip tie which holds the wires onto the side of number 2. There are also two plugs which I removed first to give more access. All screws (8 and 9 in the diagram) are T10 torx and are not security screws so a normal torx driver works.

Thanks again for all the help and advice.



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Oh, and it's worth asking motorworks to include the screws with the replacement switch as they are very small and I managed to lose one while trying to attach the switch.


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nice one, well done,

 

[Bendy toy]

Mine is a facelift model (08) so presumably the switch security screws got chucked some time after.