tallchris99
Registered user
I have to replace a couple of spokes on my R1100 rear wheel. Any tips? The wheel will be off as the tyre needs replacing too.
Replacing spokes
- Thread starter tallchris99
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tallchris99
Registered user
Well I found this advice elsewhere.
Get the spoke, nipple and grubscrew (setscrew).
Put it in until just tight.
Ring some of the spokes with a wrench and torque the new one until it sounds like the others.
Install the setscrew.
Anyone done this?
Also got this advice.
BMW recommends the 'one spoke at a time' rule because you stand a ghost of a chance at not messing up the trueness of your wheel - by carefully installing the new spoke with a little oil on the threads of spoke (we use chainsaw bar oil..it doesn't fling/wash out as easy)....spin spoke til you feel it drop into the notch formed by the previous spoke, hold it there and snug up the nipple lightly, then you get a starter punch and tap the head of the spoke to make sure it is seated in the lip, and now you can snug up the nipple so that it has a similar pitch/ring as it neighboring spokes...this is a simple and effective way of replacing your spoke
Get the spoke, nipple and grubscrew (setscrew).
Put it in until just tight.
Ring some of the spokes with a wrench and torque the new one until it sounds like the others.
Install the setscrew.
Anyone done this?
Also got this advice.
BMW recommends the 'one spoke at a time' rule because you stand a ghost of a chance at not messing up the trueness of your wheel - by carefully installing the new spoke with a little oil on the threads of spoke (we use chainsaw bar oil..it doesn't fling/wash out as easy)....spin spoke til you feel it drop into the notch formed by the previous spoke, hold it there and snug up the nipple lightly, then you get a starter punch and tap the head of the spoke to make sure it is seated in the lip, and now you can snug up the nipple so that it has a similar pitch/ring as it neighboring spokes...this is a simple and effective way of replacing your spoke
tallchris99
Registered user
Cheers. On my bike that is more than likely.
Just realised I have two replacement spokes and two grub screws but no replacement nipples. Better call Sherlock's now.
Use the time you're waiting for the nipples to get some heat onto the existing ones and flood them with plus gas (or acf50 - an excellent releasant) when cold. As Timolgra says - they will almost inevitably be seized.
tallchris99
Registered user
All good advice. I will get the wheel off later and get to work.
I was speaking to someone the other night about this - he will no doubt comment later. He had an adventure wheel rebuilt by someone in Devon. He tried to remove a few spokes - couldn't get one of them out the rim. The wheel builder says he usually has to put the wheel in an oven for a few hours to get them to come out! Maybe its because they're exposed on the rim and subject to all the s*it
I carry spare spokes with me - I hope I never have to replace one in the field though.
Good luck
I carry spare spokes with me - I hope I never have to replace one in the field though.
Good luck
Cook1e
Registered user
Stainless spokes are absolute bastards to drill out. Cobalt drill bit required. Good luck!
Not all spokes are stainless - some are plated carbon steel (but I've no idea which are fitted to each bike) - mine ('94 1100) are unknown material (not corroded so possibly stainless) but the rims are unanodised raw alloy so if I ever have to change a spoke the nipples will probably permanently welded into the rims. Might as well just buy new wheels...
ahebron
Registered user
Easy way to tell is the carbon steel ones will be corroding quicker than than the stainless steel ones like on my bike
Adrian
As Monkeyboy said, my experience with a 10 year old 1150gsa spoked wheel is that it was no easy task to move them at all as in my case, the spokes had corroded into the rim making them at best a complete twat to even move including persuading them with a suitably sized hammer. In the end I used Doug at Devon Wheel Building (http://www.devonwheelbuilding.com/) who is gent and a great help. He is fairly busy most of the time and a victim of his own success to a point. I understand that he is one of the few people in UK who has the tools and expertise in order to be able to accurately rebuild one of these wheels from it's parts. He is reasonably priced and his explanation of what it takes to get all these spokes out made the money seem worthwhile!
Still hopefully yours slip out and there's no problem with them.
Still hopefully yours slip out and there's no problem with them.
tallchris99
Registered user
I really need this sorted so as to enable going to Bulldog Bash next weekend. Well better get started!
tallchris99
Registered user
Well I cut the borked tyre off to give me room. I got the two nipples out, not seized up. I cut the spokes off to about an inch stub. I removed the disc to get better access. Now I am a bit stumped.
I can't get access to hammer the spokes back out of the rim. I am off to get a drill and bits and a few other tools from my work.
So blowtorch and freeze spray plus pliers? Drill out from outer rim side? What do you reckon?
I can't get access to hammer the spokes back out of the rim. I am off to get a drill and bits and a few other tools from my work.
So blowtorch and freeze spray plus pliers? Drill out from outer rim side? What do you reckon?
I'd say a drill is a last resort - too much chance of buggering the rim. I'd give them heat / freeze spray and releasant. Possibly make up a drift so you can hammer them?
tallchris99
Registered user
Well I drilled the head off of one. Still cant get the shaft of the spoke out. Huge annoying!!!! I have tried heat and freeze to no avail. Getting bigger hammer and drift out now.
tallchris99
Registered user
Puts hammer down and plays Rome, Total War for a bit...
ahebron
Registered user
Righto I see the problem.
Please refer to this thread
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?377926-Hammer-Dilema
You must always ensure you have the correct hammer
Adrian
Please refer to this thread
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?377926-Hammer-Dilema
You must always ensure you have the correct hammer
Adrian
Cook1e
Registered user
You are on the right lines. Hammer and good-quality, correct diameter parallel pin-punch.
Also, you are unlikely to be the first one with the problem. Search is your friend:
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?225839
www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?275702
Enjoy the Bulldog
Also, you are unlikely to be the first one with the problem. Search is your friend:
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?225839
www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?275702
Enjoy the Bulldog
I really, really hope I never break a spoke...
My wheels are 20 years old, unanodised raw alloy Akront rims and bubbling powdercoat on the rear hub. I'd be amazed if the spokes aren't permanently welded in place at each end...
My wheels are 20 years old, unanodised raw alloy Akront rims and bubbling powdercoat on the rear hub. I'd be amazed if the spokes aren't permanently welded in place at each end...
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