Ride Report: Island Hopping: a five day Scottish tour

[retroman]

And so, back to The Corrie Hotel for beer/dinner/Single Malts, and a restful night.

Here, you can see H offloading his R-T-W patented Waitrose bags


Ode to Arran:



For me: Haggis, Tatties & Neeps in a mustard gravy


H went for a burger ...



We both elected for home-made apple crumble with local ice-cream ...



... from there, a decant to the beer garden with suitable refeshment in hand. Feet up, and time to reflect on a fabulous tour.



We did manage an Arran single malt in the excellent whiskey bar. Would return to this place without hesitation ... if you book direct, you will save 10-20% booking fee via Booking.com ... wish I'd known about this option.

The Corrie Hotel, Arran | Dog Friendly hotel on the Isle of Arran - The Corrie Hotel - Isle of Arran

The hotel sits on the seashore in the idyllic village of Corrie, a perfect stop for cyclists, golfers, locals and walkers looking for a warm welcome and great food on Arran.

corriehotel.co.uk

 

[Tinytim]

Same as Mzokk, JB, Mickey et al....really enjoying this thanks.

 

[Flintlock]

Me too - thanks for sharing

 

[gerarddwatts]

Lots of adders round that bit of Arran....give yer boots a good shake....

 

[retroman]

Thanks for the comments, glad that folk are enjoying this. Like many on here, I like writing these reports as it gives me a chance to reflect on what went right and what went, er, not-so-right ... it's also great to look back on these threads in the future, to remind me what I've done. I tend to forget these things as I get older

Day 6: Corrie (Isle of Arran) - Ambleside (Lake District)
Final Hop 5: Brodick - Ardrossan (mainland)

We had seen the same big CalMac ferry plying across the Firth of Clyde the previous day, so assumed this would be our steed for the 09:45 departure on Thursday. So we were surprised at 09:15 check-in that our vessel was a big catermaran, the MV ALFRED, belonging to another Company. This was the only sailing of our trip where our bikes were tied down.



This sailing was lightly loaded, much to our surprise at 09:30 we were away, and for a moment I thought we had managed to board the wrong vessel. It transpires that this boat has been hired-in by CalMac (at enormous cost, presumably) due to the ongoing shipbuilding farce of delayed replacement vessels and spiralling costs, already £20 billion over budget apparently. Turns out that the Cat shuttles to and fro all day, seemingly with scant attention to the timetable!



They cannot have made much £££ on this sailing but I was told that the ferries book solid without notice, so there must be some serious coin in the business.

H makes himself comfortable ....



Whilst I was enjoying the view up-top I got chatting with a bloke from Lancashire who had spent the week painting a friend's house on the island. He was saying that she'd had problems with her roof, apparently there are roofers on Arran but there is a TWO YEAR waiting list for them so he'd had to arrange a roofer from Glasgow to go to Arran, not an easy job with enormous overhead costs!! I sometimes daydream about living somewhere like Arran but then reality kicks in ...despite its obvious disadvantages, life in a populated area (i.e., Cardiff) also has great benefits!

Arrival at Ardrossan was 45 minutes early so we were soon on our way on the mainland of Dumfries and Galloway, heading for Cumbria and our digs at the YHA in Ambleside.

 

[retroman]

I had a plotted a simple route south using the AA's paper map, following scenic roads. We soon found that we were following the "Scenic Tourist Route to Gretna" ..... without the tourists. Mile after mile of grippy, twisting roads with very light traffic that are a biking delight. The big GSes were in their element after a few days of dawdling around single track roads!

We followed the A713 south to Castle Douglas, skirting the Galloway Forest Park; what a great road, we will return to this area for a better exploration in due course. At Dalbeattie we were at the lights indicating right for the coast road to Dumfries, an old chap on a FireBlade drew up alongside H and said, "you'll have some fun along there!". He was not wrong ....

One of the many coastal viewpoints, with the Lake District in the distance:


It was now time to say Farewell to Scotland ... we shall return

After a quick blast southbound on the M6 we entered Ambleside via the Kirkstone Pass (just reopened after a lengthy closure) and The Stuggle, arriving at the YHA at 15:01 (check in opens at 15:00) - perfect!

 

[retroman]

I had booked two double rooms plus breakfast at the YHA. £70 each which is an absolute bargain compared to private hotels in Ambleside. True, these places always have a slight whiff of smelly feet about them and the bogs are best avoided at peak times but I must say this was perfect for our needs and I will definitely use this hostel again ... such a fantastic setting overlooking Lake Windermere, too

Having dumped our kit, we had already planned to ride out towards Eskdale and do the Wrynose/Hardknott passes in both directions. H had never ridden in the Lake District before and I think it's fair to say that he enjoyed himself ....!

 

[retroman]

I'm not a fan of Hardknott (shite road surface, too bleddy steep, too many Darby & Joan types "out for a drive") and was relieved to be safely back in Ambleside for a quick shower, then a wonderful dinner at The Priest's Hole Restaurant. We noted on arrival that Ambleside was very busy, as we both fancied a steak dinner H did a search, found this place and booked a table. GOOD MOVE!! On arrival there was a sign outside stating fully booked/no walk-ins

Local G&T to start, didn't touch the sides.



...and a nice bottle of something French.


Rare Sirloin and a pepper & cream sauce for me...



H's looked equally amazing ... it's fair to say that we have eaten well on this tour



After a slap up meal, it was into the Royal Oak pub next door (CAMRA listed) for a nightcap of Real Ale (burp!!) then back to the Hostel for another restful night.

Last post on this tour later... cheers!

Linky:

WELCOME THE TO PRIEST HOLE

 

[retroman]

Final Day: Ambleside - Home

After a really good night's sleep and a hearty breakfast, it was time to load up and ship out.

H prepares for the trauma of the southbound M6 on a Friday with a little lakeside Yoga:



The magnificent YHA building:



Sure enough, as we ride south it transpires that the M6 is completely stuffed up at Jct20, where we need to come off. So we regroup and bale out at Jct24 for a much better/clear ride via St Helens and Runcorn:



After learning of my route via Llangollen and the A483/A470 to South Wales, H elected to join me as far as the Brecon Beacons. We called in at the Ponderosa for a quick sausage roll and a brew, as one does.



After a good ride south, it was time to bid a fond farewell at Llyswen, north of Brecon. Until the next time, my friend .... ride safe.


I arrived home at 16:00, by 18:30 I received a WhatsApp from my daughter ... H home safely in Hampshire with a HUGE grin on his face. Mission Accomplished

 

[Posh Pete]

A grand tour indeed! Many thanks for posting. Steak for tea tomorrow methinks!

 

[retroman]

Epilogue

The day after our return, I emailed John Ferguson to thank him for his excellent book. I received this reply, and I'm sure John won't mind me reproducing it here:

Hello David (and Hayden)

Thank you for your email and for taking the trouble to let me know you found the book useful.

When it first came out, I was a bit nervous that my idea of a good run, or place to eat wouldn’t be the same as anyone else’s but I’ve relaxed a bit now. All the same, it’s good to hear reassuring reports of the places I included — especially as you bought the book before Covid and a number of the hostelries have gone out of business or changed hands since then.

I hope you make it to Orkney. I lived there for 22 years and loved it — it’s got fascinating archaeology and wartime relics. Make sure you go to Hoy (and Westray if you can afford the time and ferry fare). Orkney’s a great place.

I’d certainly join you for a pint if I were still in Moffat. Sadly (not the right word but close enough) we crossed the border last summer and are now living in the flatlands of Lincolnshire. I’m still getting used to the topography — or lack of it — but I point the bike north at every opportunity.

Thanks again for writing.

All the best

John.


The bikes performed without fault on this tour. When I finally rolled "Helga" (my 1150) into my garage, we had completed another 1,557 miles together. I have recently spent some £££ on this bike - overhauled WILBERS shocks, full service, new engine bars (after a low-speed step off last year), new discs and pads etc, etc. and it really did show. All-day comfort, I still think this is the perfect bike for me.

I know H thinks the same about "Ulysess", his 1250ADV!



Interestingly this tour made me realise that the 1150 is becoming a rare bike on Britain's roads. On the whole tour I only saw one other 1150, a German-registered bike with a female rider, blasting off one of the ferries! Helga certainly attracted a lot of interest from other bikers on this trip ... "Millenium Falcon chic", I suppose

Our route on an old-school map. Follow the pink line!



And Finally ... This is The Way!

 

[PapaHayd]

A wonderful week away and a fantastic tour. Once again your route planning and overall planning was fantastic. Here's to the next one, Dave. I am thoroughly excited to share many more miles with you!

 

[Traffic893]

Great report. I enjoyed reading that.

 

[retroman]

A wonderful week away and a fantastic tour. Once again your route planning and overall planning was fantastic. Here's to the next one, Dave. I am thoroughly excited to share many more miles with you!

Hear, hear. Let's get you to that Highland Park Distillery!!

 

[retroman]

Great report. I enjoyed reading that.

Thank you

 

[dr nosh]

View attachment 272856

Good write up. Thanks for taking the time.

I have never ridden in Scotland, nor visited any of the isles. Added to the bucket list.

Strapping the bikes down over the saddle and on the sidestand always worries me?

Does the strap not damage the cover, or cut into the seat foam

I could just see the cover being 'pinched' and 'screwed up' by the strap.

 

[retroman]

I have never ridden in Scotland, nor visited any of the isles. Added to the bucket list.

Strapping the bikes down over the saddle and on the sidestand always worries me?

Does the strap not damage the cover, or cut into the seat foam

I could just see the cover being 'pinched' and 'screwed up' by the strap.

Bikes are best on the side stand and left in 1st gear - more stability. NOT the centre stand - too much forward and rearward movement possible.

The ferry crew use a piece of carpet to protect the seats. I always carry my own tie-down straps just in case, plus I use a sheepskin, so my seat is always protected

 

[PapaHayd]

I have never ridden in Scotland, nor visited any of the isles. Added to the bucket list.

Strapping the bikes down over the saddle and on the sidestand always worries me?

Does the strap not damage the cover, or cut into the seat foam

I could just see the cover being 'pinched' and 'screwed up' by the strap.

No problems on my bike. I even packed a couple of extra Tesco bags to protect the seat, just in case. Entirely unnecessary with the carpet used. They definitely know what they're doing

 

[Flintlock]

A great read. Thank you.
Scotland never fails to deliver.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

A great read
Many thanks for sharing