Bendy toy
Registered user
Take great care. Those figures are for BMW handlebars. Anything else could need a different pressure from the clamps. Which is why I did not look up the torque figure.
Rox adjustable bar risers
- Thread starter RSavage
- Start date
Take great care. Those figures are for BMW handlebars. Anything else could need a different pressure from the clamps. Which is why I did not look up the torque figure.
Understand.
But I did want to know what the figure for the 'solid' side of the BMW clamp is. And which side (front or back) was solid.
Ta
Richard
Fitting the risers got off to a slightly false start yesterday. I hadn't anticipated that the risers would prevent the use of sockets when tightening the existing handlebar clamps. I've now obtained a set of E-Torx ring spanners. The need to use spanners does, of course, mean that it is irrelevant knowing the correct torque values for the fixings on the existing bar clamps!
Interestingly, and perhaps of concern, is the fact that the OEM bar clamps are fixed to the steering head by only one bolt per clamp - the side which must be clamped down without a gap (approx torque on my setup was 38Nm) and the side with the gap is only bolted into the clamp. The idea is the the clamps can be reversed to move the bars closer to the rider. What do people think about the increased load on that one bolt that raising the bars generates?
Richard
Interestingly, and perhaps of concern, is the fact that the OEM bar clamps are fixed to the steering head by only one bolt per clamp - the side which must be clamped down without a gap (approx torque on my setup was 38Nm) and the side with the gap is only bolted into the clamp. The idea is the the clamps can be reversed to move the bars closer to the rider. What do people think about the increased load on that one bolt that raising the bars generates?
Richard
Clutch line too short.
So what am I doing wrong????
Even with the (non-springy) ROX risers tipped fully forward the clutch line is too short for me to fit the bars to the ROX risers even when set to straight ahead. There is just enough slack when the bars are turned fully left.
It's a 2011 GSA so falls within the fitment range.
Richard
So what am I doing wrong????
Even with the (non-springy) ROX risers tipped fully forward the clutch line is too short for me to fit the bars to the ROX risers even when set to straight ahead. There is just enough slack when the bars are turned fully left.
It's a 2011 GSA so falls within the fitment range.
Richard
Delboy777
Registered user
Strange, my 2013 Adv is fine even with the risers all the way back and down. I bought them not so much for height but to pull the bars back a little.
Just what I bought them for. Any chance of a picture or three?
The AdvForum has a surprising number of contributors who experience the same problem with clutch and/or brake line length. Many go to the length of buying another type of riser that comes with a hose extension to solve the problem or they drop the forks out of the steering yoke to allow the clutch line to be routed outside the left fork leg. Bit drastic but might be the only way except that it might force the line into an awkward route. Bloody bikes.
Richard
Delboy777
Registered user
I will do some pics tomorrow.
You star!
Bendy toy
Registered user
You may find the lines are long enough when run behind the fork top clamp. I mean behind the fork leg rather than between the leg and frame. Obviously check lock to lock.
That's what I'm expecting. But to achieve that I think I have to drop the fork legs to enable the clutch line to run to the left of the left leg. I'm also concerned that the clutch Banjo bolt points the line towards the centre of the bike and routing the line to the left of the fork will introduce a nasty bend into it. IYSWIM.
Rgds
Richard
Bendy toy
Registered user
Good point on fork leg. Can the whole master cyl be fertled thro the fork frame gap?
Crumbs! That's a bit more than the 'no cable re-routing necessary' info on the ROX site :-(
Delboy777
Registered user
well i didnt have to. im having trouble posting pics but when i can i will
Bendy toy
Registered user
If you do have to drop the forks.
Put bike on centre stand.
If the centre stand does not give at least 30mm tyre clearance put wood plates under the stand feet.
Weight back of bike until front tyre is well off floor. You need 30mm clearance. Have some 15mm thick timbers handy.
Remove cover caps from fork tops.
Unbolt the fork leg ball joints.
Front wheel will drop to floor. Use word blocks to stop fork tops going too far down.
Sort out clutch hose and switch wires.
Raise front wheel back into place using the blocks.
Fasten fork tops into yoke.
Replace covers.
Done.
Put bike on centre stand.
If the centre stand does not give at least 30mm tyre clearance put wood plates under the stand feet.
Weight back of bike until front tyre is well off floor. You need 30mm clearance. Have some 15mm thick timbers handy.
Remove cover caps from fork tops.
Unbolt the fork leg ball joints.
Front wheel will drop to floor. Use word blocks to stop fork tops going too far down.
Sort out clutch hose and switch wires.
Raise front wheel back into place using the blocks.
Fasten fork tops into yoke.
Replace covers.
Done.
Simples :-(
You don't happen to know the torque figures for the nuts to the ball joints by any chance?
Bendy toy
Registered user
Nope !
Someone who actually trusts those things will be along soon.
Someone who actually trusts those things will be along soon.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Mine has the whole back end stripped out for powder coat. If I can work out how to safely support the engine I'll take the front subframe off as well. The fork yoke will have to come off so I might pick up some tips.
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