Running in / breaking in the 1250

[GWJ]

I'm collecting my new 1250 tomorrow and want your views on breaking in the engine. I've tried and failed with the search function.

It goes without saying I can follow the guidance in the manual, and to do otherwise risks invalidating the warranty... but I've found with previous generation boxers that they respond well to hard use in the first 50 miles. I gather that loading the rings in their early life overcame potential glazing of the barrels and so oil consumption.

Back to the question, has anyone done differently to the manual for their new 1250 lump, and to what effect?

 

[RSiconic]

Over the years I have been fortunate to have many new cars and bikes. Everyone has been treated exactly the same, except bikes that were destined for racing.

The road stuff was always:-

Start bike and idle for no more than 10 or 15 seconds, then ride off on light throttle using under 3000 rpm until bike is fully up to operating temperature.

Use 2/3rds or 66% of rev ceiling as your maximum for first 600 miles or 1000km

Increase revs 1000 rpm for each additional 100 miles. So by 1000 miles you can use all 9000 revs in this case.

The biggest single thing to avoid is never over rev [see above] and never ever lug the engine at low revs in high gears.

Make sure that you run in every gear also.

Remember that these things are all designed to work together so they will work from day one at high revs but if you wish to get a long trouble free life from the bike then I do the above.

 

[Nutty]

With any new bike I’ve had (including 8 GS’s), I’ve always ridden them hard from the start. Take it to the redline occasionally, don’t labour it in any gears, and try to avoid motorways. None of my bikes have ever used a drop of oil between services, and have performed very well in all the time I’ve had them.

You do not need to baby a modern engine.

 

[Deleted account 200417001]

Just ride it normally

 

[Deleted account 200417001]

You do not need to baby a modern engine.

The boxer is about a 1920s engine

 

[RedRick Esq.]

With any new bike I’ve had (including 8 GS’s), I’ve always ridden them hard from the start. Take it to the redline occasionally, don’t labour it in any gears, and try to avoid motorways. None of my bikes have ever used a drop of oil between services, and have performed very well in the 8 months I’ve had them.

You do not need to baby a modern engine.

fixed

 

[Matty589]

As they test the engine up to the rev limiter in the factory before shipping I wouldn’t worry about it.

 

[fredaroony]

Warm it up, without letting it site idle for a long time, then run it in hard. You don't load the engine though i.e. high gear, slow speed and lots of throttle

 

[MartinK]

Over the years I have been fortunate to have many new cars and bikes. Everyone has been treated exactly the same, except bikes that were destined for racing.

The road stuff was always:-

Start bike and idle for no more than 10 or 15 seconds, then ride off on light throttle using under 3000 rpm until bike is fully up to operating temperature.

Use 2/3rds or 66% of rev ceiling as your maximum for first 600 miles or 1000km

Increase revs 1000 rpm for each additional 100 miles. So by 1000 miles you can use all 9000 revs in this case.

The biggest single thing to avoid is never over rev [see above] and never ever lug the engine at low revs in high gears.

Make sure that you run in every gear also.

Remember that these things are all designed to work together so they will work from day one at high revs but if you wish to get a long trouble free life from the bike then I do the above.

Pretty much what I do. I have a Volvo I bought new, now 10 years old and 180,000 miles, still does not burn oil, and in good mechanical condition. Previous vehicles have had a similar ownership span and results.
I have to say, I rarely red-line my vehicles, the Boxer has plenty of grunt under 6000 rpm, so little benefit from revving it harder. Likewise, rarely use under 2000 rpm especially in higher gears.

 

[Deleted account 190920001]

Use the gearbox and give it power but don't rev. Also don't stick it in a major road and ride at the same speed for hundreds of miles. If you have to do the big road, change your speed so you can give it some throttle. There is a lower rev limiter in place so the over reveling is taken care of. Using light throttle will only result in glazed bores. Also on the plus side your engine has already been run on a dyno so the very early miles are taken care of.

 

[Nutty]

fixed

You know nothing

 

[Deleted account 191119001]

Just ride up as many hills as you can find at the beginning, and just ride it normally.

 

[Boxerlust]

According to the book shift it frequently,don't lug it,go up and down the rev range 5000 rpm max which translates to 87 mph max for 375 to 625 miles....Then change the break-in oil and enjoy the upper range where you finally will feel the difference between the 1200 and 1250...

 

[Weird Bob]

I have used the same method for my last four bikes.

Step 1
Collect bike from dealer

Step 2
Go straight to Wales on ferry

Step 3
Get lost on the many mountain roads for two days.

Step 4
Return home after 800+ kilometres

Step 5
Arrange first service.


This has worked for me

 

[Nutty]

I have used the same method for my last four bikes.

Step 1
Collect bike from dealer

Step 2
Go straight to Wales on ferry

Step 3
Get lost on the many mountain roads for two days.

Step 4
Return home after 800+ kilometres

Step 5
Arrange first service.


This has worked for me

So you do what everyone else does, and pick up your bike, put some miles on, then take it for the first service afterwards?

 

[Arsey]

So you do what everyone else does, and pick up your bike, put some miles on, then take it for the first service afterwards?

No, he doesn’t !!!! He goes to Wales,not by road like the rest of us but BY FERRY !!! And then he rides the special Breaking In roads, prefixed on Michelin maps with a BI symbol.These are roads selected by the Welsh Tourist Board that meet the strict BMW BIC (Breaking In Criteria) that have a defined combination of gradient/corners/straights that will aid the engine in a 1250LC to bed in correctly.

So, you see, its not like everyone else !!!

 

[GWJ]

Thanks all. I've dispensed with my previous thrash it approach and I'm headed off on a two day jaunt to get the beast run in. In one way it's like most of my other experiences of running in a new bike, it's bloody raining and when not the roads are wet. At least I get to play with the Modes button.

 

[Warlord]

I always take my brand new bikes straight to Hilltop on a trailer.

They then perform the sacred Running God ritual, part Voodoo, part tea and biscuits. Sacrifice some WD40 while chanting ACF50 once for each 600 miles and waving Ostrich feathers over the tyres. It gets pretty weird, but don't ask questions, just don't make eye contact and never turn your back while leaving...

I then trailer it straight back to BMW, who do the first service on the same day.

The mechanics always say its the best running bike they've ever seen. Kiss my hand and tell me no charge.

 

[Byronavitch]

No, he doesn’t !!!! He goes to Wales,not by road like the rest of us but BY FERRY !!! And then he rides the special Breaking In roads, prefixed on Michelin maps with a BI symbol.These are roads selected by the Welsh Tourist Board that meet the strict BMW BIC (Breaking In Criteria) that have a defined combination of gradient/corners/straights that will aid the engine in a 1250LC to bed in correctly.

So, you see, its not like everyone else !!!